Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Sparkatan replied to Sparkatan's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Great. Thanks.
Hi, My 2004 996 C4S tiptronic has the annoying habit of creeping forwards when waiting in a queue or at traffic lights etc. This means i have to keep my foot on the brake pedal. On a slight incline the car does not do this. Is this an issue with the torque converter?
Hi, the convertible roof tensioner cable has snapped at the bottom and I am trying to gain access to the top crimped eylet and spring so I can remove and replace it but can't get the trim off to get to it. I have removed the small torx screws holding the rubber strip and the posidriv screws beneath but it is still solid. Any ideas how i can do this?
Sorry I didn’t reply sooner. 996 C4S 2004 I’ve since started to replace both silencers and found the PSE mechanisms didn’t move, probably due to their age, they look like original silencers and both had corroded at the seams and the N/S one had a broken flexible joint. What I thought would be a Saturday job turned into a full weekend and I still only managed to replace one! The main problems were getting the old silencer off due to all of the bolts being very badly corroded. The three nuts on the mounting bracket were impossible to get to with the car on the ground even with the bumper off. I could just about get to the rear one but it wouldn’t budge and ended up rounded off. I ended up cutting the heads off the bolts on the two mounting devices and removing it that way. The downside is I had to fit the new bolts from the bottom with the nuts at the top which isn’t ideal if a nut decides to come off. I bought a silencer kit from Design 911 with the PSE option and here’s a tip. Although they say you can no longer use the dashboard button with their kit as it comes with a wireless fob, that’s not strictly correct. All you do is refit the two existing vacuum hoses to the new silencers and it works. You don’t need the controller and wiring that they provide. If you decide to use these and the fob then indeed you won’t be able to use the dashboard button. I now have a surplus to requirement wireless fob kit. The silencers are smaller than the original ones and I had a bit of trouble getting the end pipe to fit. The alignment was slightly different and the connecting bracket was a poor fit. Managed it in the end but it took me hours to do it. I expect the O/S silencer will be a bit easier now i’ve an experienced the first one and hopefully there will be less corrosion. I’ll post again when i’ve finished and let you know the results.
Amazed I got no replies or comments to this.
Has anyone replaced their PSE silencers with OEM versions that are key fob operated BUT managed to modify the wiring so the dash mounted PSE switch operates?
I’m going to get the amp checked and maybe it’ll be a cheap repair. Thing is it’s going to cost £400 to integrate this with the new head unit.
Got a quote from a car audio specialist today and was a bit surprised that they’re quoting £420 for a fibre optic adaptor to work with a Kenwood unit and existing Bose amp. The other option is a new amp at around £400 but the adaptor won’t be required. There’s nothing in the Kenwood blurb that says an amp is needed. Does this sound right?
The PSE button light is permanently illuminated. Is this simply a faulty switch or something else?
Sparkatan replied to Sparkatan's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Thanks Richard. When i’ve Tried to contact Porsche in Leeds they don’t reply to emails. Looks like i’ll have to ring them.
Sparkatan posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Anyone advise me where I can find a replacement key cover for my 996 C4S? The unlock button rubber has disintegrated. Seen some horror reviews of Porsche parts suppliers and wondered if there was a reliable source for items like this. Also need the retaining strap thing for the petrol cap as it has broken at the end, and where does it actually fit to?
Now thinking about ditching the PCM system and fitting a Kenwood DNX 9180 DABS to work with the Bose speakers. Is this straightforward or do I need to retain some of the existing components? Can I do this or does it need a specialist?
Looked at the amp today. It’s a 996 645 333 made in 2013 so must be a replacement. I took the covers off it and there’s no sign of burnt or overheated components nor is there a smell so maybe it’s ok. The fibre optic cable has light from one cable when disconnected. Still get the error message, no amplifier, no cd autochanger etc. Is there another amp somewhere in the car?
Yesterday I looked at my audio system in more detail. Firstly I checked the cd auto changer located under the front bonnet. There was power to it but nothing happening. I removed it and checked the small glass fuse and found it to be blown. I replaced it. The cd cartridge now ejects as it should. In the process I found the two orange fibre optic cables to have been removed from the cd auto changer and fitted with a bridge piece. I removed the audio system from the dash and found the Dension unit behind it. The fibre optic wires are connected to the audio unit and also go into the Dension usb box which is fitted in the glove box. The audio system functions ok on nav and the map works.The radio channels are programmed in to the audio unit. So, all in all it seems that everything is where it should be. The problem I have is there is no sound coming out of the system. When I turn the volume button up nothing happens. There is no indication on the screen of volume level, which I would have thought would appear when the volume is adjusted. My reckoning is the amplifier is duff. Am I right in thinking that? Is the audio unit worth repairing? I take it that’s where the amp is located? Or am I better off just replacing the system with something more up to date with current maps, bluetooth, etc?
I don’t seem to be able to post a picture on here so i’ll email you it.