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jamesanderson84

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About jamesanderson84

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 01/02/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Brooklyn, NY, USA
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    987.2 Cayman S - black
  • Former cars
    2000 C4 Cabriolet - blue
    2009 C4S Coupe - black on black
  1. Just posting this for information purposes. Did not drive car for three-four weeks and when I returned to it battery was dead (I actually own a battery tender but there’s no place to plug it in where I park the car :-() Garage attendant came with portable battery pack and we managed to open the hood using the pack and the lever to the left of the driver’s seat. We hooked up the car to jumper leads and tried to start it using the power from the other car’s battery but got no response. Tried to charge the battery from the battery pack but nothing. Had to leave it all day and came back that evening. In the evening I could not open the hood using the lever. Would not respond. Could not tell why not. Came back next evening with a newly purchased replacement battery. Hooked up the new battery to the fuse panel red doohickey and was able to open the hood - using the release hood button on the key. That worked first time. Removed battery and installed replacement - all good - car started right up. Original battery was a 3 year old Bosch which seems young to have failed. I’m going to try to charge the old battery to see if it failed - or I replaced it prematurely. Lessons I learned: Don’t leave car unused for more than 2 weeks Use the key to release the hood when doing the flat battery opening trick
  2. I took the car to a Porsche dealer so they'd have access to the right diagnostic equipment. They ran thediagnosis and concluded it was caused by a low voltage condition that occurred in the past (the car battery did go flat a while ago). They charged the battery and told me the problem was fixed. They made no charge for the work - which seemed like a good deal... I drove off and two minutes later the warning late came on again. A bit frustrating - another trip to the dealer upcoming...
  3. About six months ago I started getting a warning every time I start the car and pull away - "Drive Off Assistant Failure". I checked it today and it is definitely not working. I don't really care about the feature at all - I learnt clutch control 30 years ago - but I am getting ready to sell the vehicle and I know any buyer will want this fixed. Any ideas what causes this sub-system to start not working? You think it is likely to be a mechanical or an electrical problem? Any pointers or ideas appreciated. 2009 C4S w 37K miles.
  4. fwiw - I bought a 2009 black 911C4S last year which had the front end covered with film (I think it was 3M) and it was quite badly dulled/yellowed after four or so years. It was bad enough that I had it removed by the dealer as a condition of purchase.
  5. This is an annoying thing - that is so trivial it is almost not worth asking about - but annoys me enough that I wonder if its only happening to me or to everyone. 2009 C4S. 31k miles. I've owned for a year or so. Every time I start the car and pull away, after about 30 seconds of driving the radio makes an odd squelching noise for about 3 seconds, and then returns to normal. It is most noticeable on FM stations. I've owned a lot of cars and I've never heard anything like this. Does this happen to anyone else. Any ideas what causes it?
  6. After getting really annoyed with brake dust on my 996 I used a product called Rejex on them. Its a bit of a pain to apply (remove and clean all wheels, apply Rejex and leave somewhere dry for 12 hours, then you can put the wheels back on). But it worked! Notieceably less build up - and the brake dust that did get on the wheels came off much easier. I would only do the job if I was taking the wheels off for another purpose - which is why I've not put it on the wheels of my 997 yet...so right now I'm cleaning off the brake dust every couple of weeks.
  7. Well - I figured out one part of the problem - the nut I was trying to remove is a captive nut! Duh. Pretty poor design to put the Phillips head on the blind side and a captive on the sighted side - but oh well.... I ended up grinding off the head of the bolt - and now I have to find something that will fit into the captive nut - the threads are very fine and the bolt very slender. I'll post when I figure it out.
  8. For the other side, since 7mm is too small and 8mm is too big, you might get lucky with an S.A.E. size. I would guess slightly bigger than 1/4 inch, such as 9/32 or 5/16ths. >> I think it may be 9/32 - which is of course the one wrench I don't own!. Can't figure out why there is an imperial nut on a Porsche - maybe the P.O. already changed the clutch interlock switch and put back on whatever he had lying around.
  9. I am trying to change the clutch interlock switch and finding it infuriatingly difficult. Quite apart from having to get my head under the dash - once I get myself in there I can't remove the old switch. It looks to be held on my a single small bolt with a Phillips head. I can't get to the Phillips screw since there is a plastic wire harness which is about 1 inch away and so no screwdriver will fit. I can see the bolt on the other side - but I cant get any wrench to fit - the 7mm is too small - the 8mm too big... If anyone has done this I'd appreciate a pointer. Adjustable wrench? 7.5mm wrench? Or is there a trick I am missing? Thanks in advance.
  10. I would strongly recommend removing the air filter box and cleaning the throttle body at the same time. My 2009 with 26K miles was not delivering power cleanly and having had the same problem on my 996 I cleaned the throttle body. There was quite a bit of gunk around the butterfly and cleaning it out made a HUGE improvement to the drivability of the car.
  11. I encountered a similar situation - I was replacing my whole front suspension with the ROW M30 kit. First time through I removed the tie rod ends from the hub with no problem. When I put it all back together I retorqued the bolt to the spec. When I came to remove it a few weeks later (long story - I needed to replace something I broke the first time through), I could not get the tie rod end out of the hub. I used the tool with the bolt (not the Porsche tool which costs more than 200 bucks) but something cheap I saw recomended on these boards. It would not budge. I ended up bending the shaft of the tie rod end using the tool. The only way I could get it off was to heat the hub up and drive the tie rod end out with a hammer - along with the insert. When I was done with the suspension work I repeated the heating and was able to get the insert and tie rod back into the hub. Now I need to replace the outer tie rod end (since the shaft is bent) - and so I'm thinking that I should use the "pickle fork" style remover in order to separate the insert from the tie rod end in situ. I dont have a press to remove the insert from the tie rod end if I take them out together. I dont care if i damage the rubber sleeve protecting the ball joint since I'll be replacing the part anyway. I saw this technique recomended on a 986 site - although on these boards the pickle fork is foresworn! Am I headed in the right direction here? Has anyone else had a similar experience and have any ideas to share. Thanks.
  12. Does anyone know how to remove the inner wheel well "tub". There are three screw-on fasteners - easy to remove. There are also a number that look like they are pushed in - but I cant figure out how to remove them without breaking them. Any pointers appreciated.
  13. The car looks great. I have a 2000 C4 Cab myself - also my first Porsche. The 996 does not have such a great rep among Porscheophiles - but as an owner I am very happy with it - reliable, fast, and the parts prices are surprisingly affordable. If you do your own work you can run these "supercars" for less than an everyday car that you take to the dealer for service. The key to being able to do this is Renntech. So you're already at the right place. Have fun and enjoy it!
  14. In reply to my own question (#63) - having now removed both sides - I can tell you that the half shalfs did just slide out of the differential case. Once all the suspension components were loose I gave it a firm tug and it disengaged from the diff and everything came away. Its not so light when its all in one piece (strut, wheel carrier, half shaft) so be prepared. I had removed the rotor which made it lighter. I reassembled single handed using a trolley jack as a support under the bottom of the control arm to get the wheel carrier high enough t get the half shaft falt so it went into the diff level (not as complex as it sounds...) I then loosely assembled all the suspension parts and made sure it was all lined up, before taking a piece of wood, placing it on the joint on the half shaft and drifting the half shaft into the diff. This went in quite easily. So far so good...
  15. OK - so I have the right piece - Sonnen Porsche in Mill Valley were very helpful. Now - does anybody have any idea how to install it.? The one on the car disappears underneath the inner wheel well plastic tub. Do I have to remove the tub? Seems so - but its not obvious how to do it. Its got lots of fasteners but only a few unscrew - the rest dont seem to have any way to remove them. Any help appreciated.
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