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jurichar

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About jurichar

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  • Present cars
    2001 996 cab
  1. LOL... i have not investigated the OF f yet, although that cracks me up every time i see it. I'll take a pic, maybe tomarrow. As far as the boxer guys having trouble, i dont know what to say, it was "mildly" difficult, but nothing impossible. It was no harder than the install of the short shifter ;). I have gigantic fingers too...so if i can do it, anyone should be able to. We'll see how it works in the long term though, if i have some major problems i'll post em up to let you know. Anway, if anyone wants to give it a whirl and has a question feel free to drop me a line drjustinrichardson@hotmail.com . I'll try to help! Hey cowboy....check this out http://www.bigshocker.com/ . It's a must have! I have 2 ;)
  2. Well...Awhile back i was fiddleing with something in my car and droped something hard on the glass readout of the climate control. At first it just had a little bleeding on the glass, but eventually it got out of control and the display would flicker and was completely unreadable! Well, it finally bugged me enough to look into fixing. I called up suncoast and they wanted charge me about $400-500 for a new unit.....that wasnt going to work. So i went with option B. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Audi-Porsch...1QQcmdZViewItem I took the plunge and tried to piece this thing together today. I wouldn't say that it was "easy" but it wasnt horribly hard either. The worst part by far was the modification of the stock internals to adopt this new piece. Anway here are some pics and a little description of what's going on. Unfortunatly i didn not take a pic of what this thing looked like when it was installed prior to fixing...sorry! Removal Removed - you can see the bleeding LCD juice Deconstruction this wasnt too hard. Just a few screws and pins. They give you sweet gloves with the kit...So while wearing sweet gloves its only right to make a sweet hand gesture. The shocker seemed appropriate. This is where it gets tricky. The LCD they send you in the kit is probably 1/8" - 1/4" too big for the stock metal "cage." So i basically trimmed the side pieces off the cage and smoothed them all over w/ some sandpaper. This is a pic halfway throught the process. These two pics are after the unit was re assembled. There are these little rubber zebra connectors that transfer the electricity from the board to the LCD. In the factory version they fit neatly inside the metal cage, but because i destroyed that they didnt fit quite so nice/neat. Basically, to make it work, i just held everything together i re-assembled. Then you need to take a screwdriver and push the zebra connector back towards the terminals on the board. It makes a really odd angle, but it worked out ok?!? I was worried when i was doing it? Re-assembled and ready for the upcoming major dissapointment! This last pic was another dicey area to overcome. Basically, because the new glass was bigger, it didnt exactly "fit" into the confines of the plastic internals. Therefore, i had to modify them slightly. What i ended up doing was shaving the side of the big circular "auto" button and a little bit of the plastic "tube" the the button fit into. I used a utility blade as my weapon of choice. And here is the final product. I think it came out pretty good, I was expecting the readout to be the same as i had before, but it was slightly different as you can tell by the pics. I like it though, better than the ugly bleeding version i had before?!? Lol and this version has "manuell" spelled correctly!!! Here is a pic of the old LCD before i pitched it....and my little PIA helper friend!
  3. Cracked or Bleeding Climate Control Well...Awhile back i was fiddleing with something in my car and droped something hard on the glass readout of the climate control. At first it just had a little bleeding on the glass, but eventually it got out of control and the display would flicker and was completely unreadable! Well, it finally bugged me enough to look into fixing. I called up suncoast and they wanted charge me about $400-500 for a new unit.....that wasnt going to work. So i went with option B. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Audi-Porsch...1QQcmdZViewItem I took the plunge and tried to piece this thing together today. I wouldn't say that it was "easy" but it wasnt horribly hard either. The worst part by far was the modification of the stock internals to adopt this new piece. Anway here are some pics and a little description of what's going on. Unfortunatly i didn not take a pic of what this thing looked like when it was installed prior to fixing...sorry! Removal Removed - you can see the bleeding LCD juice Deconstruction this wasnt too hard. Just a few screws and pins. They give you sweet gloves with the kit...So while wearing sweet gloves its only right to make a sweet hand gesture. The shocker seemed appropriate. This is where it gets tricky. The LCD they send you in the kit is probably 1/8" - 1/4" too big for the stock metal "cage." So i basically trimmed the side pieces off the cage and smoothed them all over w/ some sandpaper. This is a pic halfway throught the process. These two pics are after the unit was re assembled. There are these little rubber zebra connectors that transfer the electricity from the board to the LCD. In the factory version they fit neatly inside the metal cage, but because i destroyed that they didnt fit quite so nice/neat. Basically, to make it work, i just held everything together i re-assembled. Then you need to take a screwdriver and push the zebra connector back towards the terminals on the board. It makes a really odd angle, but it worked out ok?!? I was worried when i was doing it? Re-assembled and ready for the upcoming major dissapointment! This last pic was another dicey area to overcome. Basically, because the new glass was bigger, it didnt exactly "fit" into the confines of the plastic internals. Therefore, i had to modify them slightly. What i ended up doing was shaving the side of the big circular "auto" button and a little bit of the plastic "tube" the the button fit into. I used a utility blade as my weapon of choice. And here is the final product. I think it came out pretty good, I was expecting the readout to be the same as i had before, but it was slightly different as you can tell by the pics. I like it though, better than the ugly bleeding version i had before?!? Lol and this version has "manuell" spelled correctly!!! Here is a pic of the old LCD before i pitched it....and my little PIA helper friend! Author jurichar Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 08/01/2007 06:05 PM  
  4. Check around your area for powdercoating services. Get your estmates and move forward from there. This would be the permanent reapir, but would be more expensive. You could also have them blasted and then just use high temp primer and paint, but this method's results are directly affected by the quality of work done. ie you do not clean and prep right it will come off. As far as the lettering. Hmm I do not know all porsche brakes but all the ones I've seen (My GT3, C2, and 01 TT's) had Porsche casted in them but if your do not you could go the sticker route. Either way you are going to be with out the calipers for a week or better. Good luck with it. call up tirerack and ask for their 2-part caliper paint system ($38), then go to xenonmods.com and get yourself some high temp decals for the porsche lettering (real cheap <$10). Set aside about 5-6 hours on a sunday and you wont be dissapointed. It takes a little elbow grease to get the job done right, but it looks really good (comprable to powercoating at >3 feet away or a layer of brake dust ;) ). I've done mine and so have quite a few other guys. I can e-mail you some pics if you want??? Not sure how to post em here??? The other option is powdercoating which there is a guy on 6speed named sandoval that does em for $500 with a complete rebuild on the internals?!? But you have to go without your car while he's working on em? Justin
  5. 77k and still purring...i hope i'm nowhere near the finish line
  6. Hey all, I thought this would be easy to find, but im having no luck ;). I need to find the pin-out diagram for the haes 996 cab amplifier. I'm trying to install a rockford 3sixty and i need to know which wires are source wires. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!! Justin
  7. I have a v1 and it's saved my keister plenty of times. The dang thing falses ALOT though, Driving through town it's pretty much useless...but for the expressway its awesome!
  8. this came up over at six speed a few weeks back. A guy had an Ebay special on his car and replaced it with a B&M because of the price special bumperplugs.com. He said the difference was substantial and the BM was FAR superior due to a lack of binding and/or sticking between gears. As a general rule...you get what you pay for when it comes to porsche...why put a busch league part on a 100k car?!?
  9. I have an 02 996 C4 Cab ( with hard top ) and I also have a Honda Ridgeline truck for the snow/bad weather. Looked at Boxsters but definitely very happy I went with the 911. I'm even more grateful I can afford to have both cars. My vote: 911. i had the same budget constraints myself and was faced with the same decision. After countless drives and months of deliberation i finally bit the bullet and got the 996......It was definately the best decision i could have made. I LOVE the car. I'll tell you exactly what EVERY person told me......."buy the best porsche you can afford and you wont be dissapointed" I'm actually wishing i would have gotten a MY 02 vs a MY01, but the funds just weren't there.... GET THE 996!!!!
  10. i second that. I have a 01 996 and it comes off, it just requires a little elbow greese...pull on it hard! BTW...dont forget to mark the position of your cables w/ a marker!!!!
  11. I just read the article posted by Loren. It seems as if a more viscous oil is a suitable remedy, assuming i read it correctly. I think im going to give a little heavier oil a whirl and see what happens. I'll be sure to report!
  12. I was talking to a fellow porsche enthusiast a few days ago about my leaking oil problem, and mentioned that it seemed to get much worse after i did an oil change with new Mobil 1 0w-40. This was the first oil change done with the car in my possession. My friend told me to take the oil out and use something different/heavier like castrol 15w-50 and see if that stops the leak. Apparently he had 3 friends with porsches do this exact thing and all of their leaking problems were gone??? has anyone ever heard of this before???? Also, he mentioned using an oil additive such as STP product that may beef up the seal a little bit?!? Has anyone tried either of these remedys for our nasty leaky RMS's?!?!?
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