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Update: Problem is solved. It turned out to be a bad instrument cluster that caused the low oil pressure warning light to stay on permanently. Also I had a spoiler fault light on permanently - which was also caused by the cluster. Replaced the old one with a used instrument.
Ordered a used one from a 99 2,5 tiptronic. Looking at the diagram for the clusters, all the pins are almost correct. The 99 has a “infosystem in” and out pin though, which the 97 does not have. Should this cause any trouble?
I did not get the part number, but called the local ZF dealer and they ordered the valve for me, based on the information I send them on the gearbox (Picture of the type plate on the side of the transmission).
During repair of the top mechanism on a 1997 boxster 986 2,5 tiptronic, I found a black connector crushed by the roof mechanism, in the left side of the car. The connector has to pins and wires (relatively thick, around 2,5-3mm). One wire is brown, the other is white/green. The wires come from the lower part of the car, and comes up where the seatbelt goes up from the floor, on the left hand side near the b-pillar. I tried to find the counterpart where the connector should go, but I cannot find anything in that area. No equipment seems to be u/s. Only thing is a check engine light, related to the variocam - but I doubt these to wires are related to that. Anyone who can identify this connector/wires, what they are powering, and where the counterpart is supposed to be located?
Good news, thank you! The coding with PIWIS, is that only for setting the milage? The local workshop informed me that no coding except for setting the milage is needed, on an first gen (97) boxster - but they might me wrong.
Had the same issue on a 2,5 boxster with tiptronic. The reason for the stiff shifter, was the manual selector valve. Shift was fine when the transmission was cold, but as it warmed up it would get stiffer and eventually lock up. The material it is made from, can expand when heated, and this can lock up the valve. This has been an issue on quite a few BMW cars using the same ZF gearbox series. I bought a new valve from ZF, around 11USD. You can leave the valve body in during the swap, just lower it a couple of inches. I fitted some longer bolts to keep the valve body aligned when lowering it. Could be worth a try - as the valve is very cheap. It will take som oil and a new gasket though..
Hi Trying to fix som issues on a 1997 Boxster (2,5 tiptronic) that I think are related to the instrument cluster. Local Porsche dealer can't diagnose the fault, since they can't read out any data on the cluster. Thinking about replacing the cluster with a used one, but... I live in europe, and the car is imported from the US. Most second hand clusters here are UK or ROW ( On the type sticker on the back of the cluster). Does the part numbers have to match 100%, - or can I use a UK or a ROW cluster from the same year? I could buy one from the US, but import taxes and fees are brutal in my country, so the costs would around double up compared to buying one in europe. As I understand, the only thing that needs to be coded is the milage on the cluster. Inputs would be highly appreciated.
Thank you. So a swap will work with no coding. Only needed for setting the milage. Will see if I can find an extra cluster and check if this will fix the oil pressure light issue.
Just tried to connect a piece of wire directly from the sensor to the cluster. Problem still persist. I guess next step is to get the instrument cluster checked somehow. The local workshop claim that no coding is needed to replace the cluster on a 97 Boxster - except for the milage. Is this true?
Yes - when it comes to oil it is good to be sure. I checked the wire for continuity with a multimeter, and checked that it is not grounded (Will make the oil light illuminate). Might be worth to try with another piece of wire from the sensor to the pin on the cluster just be sure it is not the wire making the trouble.
Got the oil pressure tester today and hooked it up. Oil pressure seems good. 6 bars idle, cold engine. 2,4 bars idle on warm engine. As mentioned the pressure sensor is replaced with no luck. Wire to the cluster seems good. Any suggestions on how to move on from here?
Update: Oil filter cup and oil filter replaced. Oil pressure sender (switch) replaced. Oil pressure control piston, spring and crush washer replaced. All original parts. The problem still persists. Actually the low oil pressure warning light is steady on now when the engine is running. Of course I did not run the engine for more than a few seconds, but everything sounds normal. I cut the old oil filter open to check for metal debris - looks nice and clean. I do not have an oil pressure tester - but I measured on the oil pressure switch to check the oil pressure. When engine is not running, the switch is closed to ground. Engine started - the switch opens and break the circuit. A few seconds after turning off the engine, the switch closes to ground again. I guess this indicates normal oil pressure - as the operation of the oil pressure switch seems normal? The wire from the switch to the cluster ( White connector, pin no. 6) is fine - i checked that. Could this be a bad cluster issue?
Looked deeper into the wiring. The wire from the microswitch for spoiler retracted on the spoilermotor goes to pin nr. 26 on the white cluster connector. This connection is fine - meaning the cluster is getting the signal for "spoiler retracted". Still can't figure out why the power for the spoilermotor is not cut when the microswitch engages in retracted position.