Kristoffer Sellebjerg

Update: Problem is solved. It turned out to be a bad instrument cluster that caused the low oil pressure warning light to stay on permanently. Also I had a spoiler fault light on permanently - which was also caused by the cluster. Replaced the old one with a used instrument.

Ordered a used one from a 99 2,5 tiptronic. Looking at the diagram for the clusters, all the pins are almost correct. The 99 has a “infosystem in” and out pin though, which the 97 does not have. Should this cause any trouble?

Thank you for inputs. Then it makes sense that I can´t find the counterpart.

I did not get the part number, but called the local ZF dealer and they ordered the valve for me, based on the information I send them on the gearbox (Picture of the type plate on the side of the transmission).

During repair of the top mechanism on a 1997 boxster 986 2,5 tiptronic, I found a black connector crushed by the roof mechanism, in the left side of the car. The connector has to pins and wires (relatively thick, around 2,5-3mm). One wire is brown, the other is white/green. The wires come from the lower part of the car, and comes up where the seatbelt goes up from the floor, on the left hand side near the b-pillar. I tried to find the counterpart where the connector should go, but I cannot find anything in that area. No equipment seems to be u/s. Only thing is a check engine light, related to the variocam - but I doubt these to wires are related to that. Anyone who can identify this connector/wires, what they are powering, and where the counterpart is supposed to be located?

Good news, thank you! The coding with PIWIS, is that only for setting the milage? The local workshop informed me that no coding except for setting the milage is needed, on an first gen (97) boxster - but they might me wrong.

Had the same issue on a 2,5 boxster with tiptronic. The reason for the stiff shifter, was the manual selector valve. Shift was fine when the transmission was cold, but as it warmed up it would get stiffer and eventually lock up. The material it is made from, can expand when heated, and this can lock up the valve. This has been an issue on quite a few BMW cars using the same ZF gearbox series. I bought a new valve from ZF, around 11USD. You can leave the valve body in during the swap, just lower it a couple of inches. I fitted some longer bolts to keep the valve body aligned when lowering it. Could be worth a try - as the valve is very cheap. It will take som oil and a new gasket though..

Hi Trying to fix som issues on a 1997 Boxster (2,5 tiptronic) that I think are related to the instrument cluster. Local Porsche dealer can't diagnose the fault, since they can't read out any data on the cluster. Thinking about replacing the cluster with a used one, but... I live in europe, and the car is imported from the US. Most second hand clusters here are UK or ROW ( On the type sticker on the back of the cluster). Does the part numbers have to match 100%, - or can I use a UK or a ROW cluster from the same year? I could buy one from the US, but import taxes and fees are brutal in my country, so the costs would around double up compared to buying one in europe. As I understand, the only thing that needs to be coded is the milage on the cluster. Inputs would be highly appreciated.

Thank you. So a swap will work with no coding. Only needed for setting the milage. Will see if I can find an extra cluster and check if this will fix the oil pressure light issue.

Just tried to connect a piece of wire directly from the sensor to the cluster. Problem still persist. I guess next step is to get the instrument cluster checked somehow. The local workshop claim that no coding is needed to replace the cluster on a 97 Boxster - except for the milage. Is this true?

Yes - when it comes to oil it is good to be sure. I checked the wire for continuity with a multimeter, and checked that it is not grounded (Will make the oil light illuminate). Might be worth to try with another piece of wire from the sensor to the pin on the cluster just be sure it is not the wire making the trouble.

Got the oil pressure tester today and hooked it up. Oil pressure seems good. 6 bars idle, cold engine. 2,4 bars idle on warm engine. As mentioned the pressure sensor is replaced with no luck. Wire to the cluster seems good. Any suggestions on how to move on from here?

Noted! Mechanical pressure gauge ordered. Will update when I have actual oil pressure values.

Update: Oil filter cup and oil filter replaced. Oil pressure sender (switch) replaced. Oil pressure control piston, spring and crush washer replaced. All original parts. The problem still persists. Actually the low oil pressure warning light is steady on now when the engine is running. Of course I did not run the engine for more than a few seconds, but everything sounds normal. I cut the old oil filter open to check for metal debris - looks nice and clean. I do not have an oil pressure tester - but I measured on the oil pressure switch to check the oil pressure. When engine is not running, the switch is closed to ground. Engine started - the switch opens and break the circuit. A few seconds after turning off the engine, the switch closes to ground again. I guess this indicates normal oil pressure - as the operation of the oil pressure switch seems normal? The wire from the switch to the cluster ( White connector, pin no. 6) is fine - i checked that. Could this be a bad cluster issue?

Looked deeper into the wiring. The wire from the microswitch for spoiler retracted on the spoilermotor goes to pin nr. 26 on the white cluster connector. This connection is fine - meaning the cluster is getting the signal for "spoiler retracted". Still can't figure out why the power for the spoilermotor is not cut when the microswitch engages in retracted position.

Sounds good! Parts are on the way. Will also replace the oil pressure sender, since it´s cheap and apparently tend to fail over time, as I can read. As I can see, the easiest way to access the oil pressure sender is from the top - with the engine top cover removed. Is that correct?

Update: Received new spoiler motor / gear / actuator assembly. Installed in, and the problem is still there! Seems like the signal from the microswitch, sensing the spoiler retracted is not sensed in the circuit, hence keeping the motor spinning when pushing and holding the manual retract button on the fuse box. I guess this means there must be a fault in the wiring somewhere in the circuit. Any suggestions on where to start?

Perfect, thanks - I really appreciate your help. I will update once the new parts are in place and oil system tested.

Thanks again! Will definitely replace the oil filter housing as well. Before I get under the car, where do I have to look to find the oil pressure relief valve?

Thanks for inputs! Will check the actual oil pressure and install the updated pressure regulator parts. Is there a guide for this procedure somewhere here? Still can't figure out why everything was normal before the oil change though.

Hello! 1997 986 Boxster 2,5 automatic transmission. Replaced the oil filter ( Brand is Hengst ) and the engine oil with Mobil Super 3000 5w40. Climate is rather cold - located in northern Europe. When starting the engine cold, it will take around 10 seconds for the low oil pressure light to turn off. Revving the engine slightly helps and turns the light off. When engine is warm, the light is out right after engine start. There are no unusual sounds form the engine when the light is on. Oil level is correct. What could cause this? The problem came after the oil change.

Hello. I know this issue has been covered here a lot, but I could not find any topics covering this specific issue. Hoping for some expert advice! Vehicle: 1997 Boxster 986 2,5, automatic transmission. Issue: Spoiler light on cluster is on. Stays on while driving. Both relays are good. No fuses blown. Manual button works fine, will take the spoiler up and down. However, when holding the button in to move the spoiler down, the spoilermotor does not stop when the spoiler is fully retracted. This makes the gear sound kind of grinding. I guess this is was is causing the spoiler warning light? That the physical position of the spoiler down is somehow not sensed, causing the motor to keep running while pressing the manual button. I took the whole spoiler assembly out of the vehicle and took it apart. Suspected a faulty microswitch. Both switches are working, but the alignment for switch engangement seems off. I am now considering buying a second hand spoiler motor / drive train assembly to fix the issue. Before I do that - I just want to make sure that I did not miss anything, that can cause the motor to run while holding the manual button down, when the spoiler is fully retracted. Would buying a complete assembly solve my issue? Thank you !

Hello there! Just to follow up on this - I replaced the manual selector valve in the front part of the valve body in the gearbox today. No need to remove the valve body. Could just lower it an inch or so - and then replace the valve. Solved the problem! Will monitor the coolant level and if it drops - get the ATF cooler checked for leaks.

Hi! I have som issues with the transmission on a 1997 Boxster - 2,5l engine and automatic transmission. The car has been in storage for around 3 years. After the first startup it runs great - but then... The first sign of trouble with the gearbox was a stiff gear selector when the transmission warmed up. Nothing when cold - but after a good drive or 15 minuts in idle - the gear lever was very stiff and almost stuck. Then - out of a sudden, the gearbox would not engage in any gear (P would engage though). Checked the shift cable and mechanism - all was operating normal. Then I decided to check the oil level. When i removed the filler plug - oil was dripping out (Maybe around 200ml). This made me kind of uncomfortable - so I pulled the pan and the oil filter down. The oil is brown - but clear. Some sticky black oil in the bottom of the pan - and the filter looks quite dirty too. In the pan and on the filter, some of the oil looks kind of weird ( Like when you have coolant fluid in the engine oil). So - could it be the oil cooler that has an internal leak - and leaks coolant into the gearbox oil? Is this a common issue on the 5hp19 gearbox? I found the reason that the transmission will not engage in any gear. The gear shifter arm - on the inside of the transmission connects to a dark brown/black plastic arm which I thought looked a bit loose. Could pull it right off - and it turned out it has snapped (See picture). So my questions are: Why did it snap? Is it hard to replace? How do I determine if there is actually coolant in the oil? Is it too late to save the transmission? Hoping for some clever people to check in on this ?