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I did! But not well enough, clearly. This video helped me confirm the orientation. The door closer to the radio is also foam-less, but I am not sure if I want to cut a hole in the heater box to get to it.
Resolved - I accidentally installed the flap backwards.
I recently got a 996 911 and immediately noticed the heater was weak. I repaired the foam on the heater flap, and it is now worse... In an effort to check the solenoid, I disconnected it from the flap and moved the flap by hand, and it gave me a slight change but not much. I’ve tried multiple test drives with the bleeder valve open, and both heater core lines are warm to the touch, so I think it is bled. Not sure where to go from here. Possibly the control unit, or possibly the flap is not installed correctly? If the core is warm and I manually move the flap, shouldn’t I be able to get heat? The flap has little rotation, maybe 60 degrees at most.
Thank you both for the advice! I am searching for used units right now. Just to ask the question - is there any awareness whether the headlight leveling bits inside the housing are the same for turbo versus non-turbo? Used right-side housings for turbo are hard to come by; I could potentially get a non-turbo unit and swap the bits over.
I am a brand new 996 owner as of two days ago 😃 I bought a 996 turbo and drove it home, and immediately noticed that the passenger side low beam was dipped way low. Referencing the manual, I tried adjusting it, but no success. I removed the housing and found that the adjust mechanism is broken inside - with the setup being manual adjustment --> gear/lever mechanism --> auto adjust motor (996 631 135) --> bulb housing, the gear/lever arrangement is broken at the interface to the auto adjust motor. As a result, nothing is controlling the beam height. I spent some time trying to find a part number for the gear/lever mechanism and no luck - only got as far as the auto adjust motor. I can attempt to repair with glue or similar but not convinced it will hold. Any tips for this one? I would prefer to replace just this mechanism.
The check valve right after the intake manifold is not allowing vacuum to go to the diverter valves. When I disconnected it, the line to the diverter valves appeared to be pressurized. Bypassed it and getting good vacuum to the diverter valves, and no longer having the sounds that I initially posted about, but P1666 is still triggering after high-boost situations. I am curious if this is partially due to the lack of check valve, with the long-ish diverter valve lines seeing both pressure and vacuum now - taking longer to close the diverter valves (?). New diverter valves and check valve ordered. I also want to replace the plastic line under the intake manifold but struggling to find it so far.
To clarify - that’s the diverter valves, right? That’s where my research was pointing, but the “implausible signal” part is confusing.
The car is now triggering P1666. It seems to agree with me that something is not right. Fingers crossed that I can find/fix the problem without much difficulty!
Lol, and to think I was expecting a picture of a BMW. Still in the family!
I’d suggest ohming out the wires as wiring issues can be tricky to find otherwise.
Thanks! I ordered the Mann filters thinking they were the same/similar to OEM, but they may differ. I may try an OEM set next. Unfortunately discarded the old filters. Anyone have observations of this type of noise?
millerchris85 replied to ekstroemtj's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)Wow, okay. I would really expect it to be bled by now. Is the car taking a long time to heat up? If you drain all coolant try making sure the right amount came out.
millerchris85 replied to ekstroemtj's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)How much have you driven it? I recently did similar work and observed that I needed to turn left/right pretty aggressively to help bleed the system and get all the air bubbles out. Sounds like it either needs to be bled or the shop made a mistake.
You should be able to see something by inspecting around the front of the engine area. See anything?
Strongly agree on hose clamp tool and beware fuel pump priming.