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Rob in WA

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Everything posted by Rob in WA

  1. I just did it. Works like a charm :) I added this pic of the correct wire (MY01) to the thread.
  2. I just did it. Works like a charm :) Here's a pic of the correct wire (MY01).
  3. I've got a PDF that Loren sent me awhile back when I had a mouse that decided my hardtop would make a nice home. I can't attach it via the e-mail program here. Send me your e-mail and I'll send it to you if you want.
  4. My brother says there isn't, I said there is. When I looked in his engine bay I couldn't find one. :unsure:
  5. Well I figured it out (dealer couldn't get me in until next Monday). The flap on the driver's side was getting caught on a thick black wire. I just shoved the wire towards the center out of the way and Violà. :)
  6. I wouldn't say a lot. It's got little over 18k miles on it and the hardtop's on about 30% of the time. I close the soft top all the time, unless I'm just running in some place for a few minutes. Though many days I'll drive to Seattle or Vancouver (80 miles each way) and just open it once each way. EDIT/UPDATE - After washing and double waxing I got it down :) Just in time for a topless ride to Easter Sunday brunch on Lummi Island. :jump: My lil' bro' brought his Turbo up and we took the ferry out there. Met up with a Boxster at brunch (get that hardtop off!!!). Then back home to check out his new stereo (an extra 200lbs !! :D ) And the obligatory photo shoot. Happy Easter :)
  7. Yup, it's the flap on the driver's side. It won't go into the top open position fully, even when I try "helping" it. :censored:
  8. Thanks LV - D*mn, the service dept. isn't open until Monday :(
  9. I just took the hardtop off (it's going to be in the 70s here today and tomorrow) and the soft top won't open all the way. The top itself goes down, but the body portion won't lower all the way (see pic). Any ideas? I know it's dirty and I'm in my PJs. :P
  10. Thanks Tony :) That's the best time I got on about five runs, the other ones were in my Rover; just to learn how to use the G Timer. Like I said I can get a better time, but I was focusing on a smooth launch. The only performance mods I have are the RoW M030, B&M S.S., PSE, and a K&N. :beer:
  11. The 3.4LC4 Cab is 122 lbs heavier then the C2 version not 340 lbs. The 3.6L is 132lbs heavier. This is in my 3.4L C4 Cab: I can easily get below 5 secs if I want to thrash on the clutch. I would put a sports suspension (i.e. R0W M030) on your C4 to help w/handling- the stock 996 suspension is way too "mushy." :drive:
  12. It's the right one, but as far as I know they're all a little different(spring rates, etc.), just let Gert know what you have and he will send you the right set-up.
  13. 1) Is what I'm describing "normal" for a short shifter? Yes - sort of. 2) Will it loosen up over time or can some adjustment be made? Yes both, for the adjustment from the CCZ option TSB: Screw in the hexagon socket head bolt until the gear-shift lever just begins to jump back to neutral by itself from the 5th-6th gear shift gate Tighten hexagon nut. Check shifting in all gears. 3) Could installation be at fault? I don't think so, see above. 4) Or is it just a matter of learning the proper timing for shift changes to reduce time, notchiness and effort? It will loosen up and you'll get used to. Mine is usually pretty tight when it's cold.
  14. Backasswards Double Butt ?!?!?!?
  15. Doug, Could you please let me/us know how it goes. I have the the stuff as well and MAY?!?!? be interested in tackling this project.
  16. He he :) That's coffee RJ, only 'cause it was in the morning. :cheers: I'm not very knowledgable about this stuff. I AS* U ME that the degree conversion is straight up. Here's the Porsche specs Loren posted for me awhile ago.
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