Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Rob in WA

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    114

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Rob in WA

  1. Rob in WA
    RoW M030
  2. Rob in WA
    I believe I read somewhere that the Ruf style reduces throw by 40%+. I think I also read that Porsche recommends a maxmum reduction of 33% (evidenced by GT3 throw) which is what the orginal B&M is. This is what swayed me towards the B&M. Can anyone confirm this?
  3. Rob in WA
    Really?!?!?! Anymore info on this? Does Gert have it? Is it legal in the U.S.?
  4. Rob in WA
    Jack, I think it's too early for me to tell. I haven't driven it too much since it was installed (low back sprain). It definitely is a bit more stiff/rough, but nothing that's obnoxious. Perhaps some of the others who have had it for a while can comment.
  5. Rob in WA
    Thanks guys, it already feels preety darn aggressive so I should just leave it where it is for now.
  6. Rob in WA
    Thank you Loren. Here's the sheet they gave me. It looks like my front camber is not in the specified range. They told me they don't even the have RoW specs and that if I set them to RoW I would go through tires a lot faster. I don't plan on tracking it much. Should I press the issue?
  7. Rob in WA
    I just had my ROW M030 installed, initial impressions - kick ***!!!! It feels very crisp, like a go kart a little more bumpy, but nothing that's uncomfortable. I had an independent shop do the install and then had my dealer do the alignment w/their Porsche machine. When I got it back the gave me a sheet w/the settings it seems they aligned it to U.S. Sport suspensions specs. How different are these? Should I take it back? I told them it was ROW. :angry:
  8. Rob in WA
    Great feature Loren, something new and different - I added mine. :)
  9. Rob in WA
  10. Rob in WA
    Thanks :) I know, I know, I'm only driving at the most 7/10s (PSM has kicked in a twice though), but your right it's just been so hard to find time (and money) and I'm scared I'll beat the hell out of her at the track. It is a very remote section of road; deer are my biggest fear. My ideal is to get a separate track car that I can beat on.
  11. Rob in WA
    I've never done a DE, though I've read a lot and watched a few racing technique videos. There is a stretch of windy ( it get's very little traffic) road near my house that I like to let loose on. Normally I drive very conservatively, but when I get close to home I like to reward myself. I've gotten to the point that I'm in the upper 50 mph range in this section. I have tried two different approaches and I'm not sure which is the best. I can remain in second gear the whole time, but I'm in the upper range, 6300 RPMs +, the majority so I know I lose some torque. Or I can alternate between 2nd and 3rd, but I know I lose time shifting. Which approach is best? I've thought about shooting a video of this and having the "racers" critique my driving.
  12. Rob in WA
    I had the air suspension fail on my Rover once. I lost all shock absorbtion and the thing was sitting on the rubber bump stops only. I attempted to drive it to the the dealer, but almost got a concussion from hitting my head on the ceiling and decided to have it towed. I don't see how the air suspension could cause a flat tire though.
  13. Rob in WA
    Yes, an awesome sight from the premier Porsche guru - Thanks Loren :)
  14. Rob in WA
    It will come w/instructions. They are pretty good, be sure and mark the cables and put the adjustment screw towards the front of the car for easy access. Tools you will need (from memory) 20 & 30 torx - needlenose pliers, rubber mallet & and an hour or two.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.