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About Costa

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  • From
    Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    996 C2
  • Future cars

Costa's Achievements


Member (1/1)



  1. I haven't dropped in on Loren's great forum for a while....😏 Owned from new - 2004 C2 6spd 13.7K miles (approx 22,000 Km). I don't get to drive it often but it usually gets driven for relatively long drives when it does. RMS had just developed a minor leak just the other week so I had that replaced in conjunction with a major engine service. While gearbox was out for the RMS fix - I had the IMS bearing replaced as I had a kit (TuneRS) sitting on the shelf for the last 5 years collecting dust waiting for it to be installed. BTW OEM bearing looked fine when I removed its seals and no play in the bearing was noticeable. Might be a while before I qualify for the 'High Mileage' club....😀
  2. I'll probably throw on a vacuum gauge on the output (switched) side of the solenoid to verify that when its hot it does allow vacuum through - If that's definitely the case then I'll just purchase a replacement solenoid as its easy to access and swap out (only a 5min job). I have not noticed any change in note in my PSE when my fans are or are not running though, and there is no physical or electrical connection between these two systems so I cannot see how the note can change which is odd. I wonder if it could be possible that when the fans cut in - the engine timing etc is also being altered slightly by the ECU which may (possibly?) alter the exhaust note - just guessing here... But like I said, I have not noticed this on my car.
  3. Not dumb at all :D Here is a link from Loren's DIY section. I performed the mod on my 996 back in late 03 when I first had it delivered new from the dealer and it worked fine - Thanks to Loren.... :thankyou: PSE Speed Over-ride Hack - DIY Note that the mod basically disables the speed sensor signal and will also affect (disables) the auto locking function in your car if it is fitted with that option (Car locks engage after a certain speed automatically). You may wish to also read this recent thread where I found an issue with my PSE which was fine at WOT but would go quiet when the engine bay was getting hot - Looks like the solenoid that controls the vacuum (on/off) to the PSE muffler valves is the culprit. LINK Do you have the switch on your dash to manually control the PSE?? If anything - the PSE should get louder with age as opposed to quieter - usually mufflers get louder because the insulation material inside will degrade slowly over time. The only way for it to become quieter is if the vacuum operated valves were being enabled somehow - similar to what I had recently experienced where my solenoid was allowing the valves to operate slightly.
  4. Just for everyone's reference I disconnected the vacuum line(s) from the solenoid leading to the mufflers and this cured the issue I was having. Looks like for some reason my solenoid is 'leaking' vacuum (through to the muffler valves) when the engine bay gets hot! - I have reconnected the vacuum line back to the solenoid a couple of times to confirm the original problem - and sure enough when my engine bay heats up my PSE system is a lot quieter between 0 and 4K rpm - with the vacuum line disconnected the PSE note under 4K rpm does not alter at all with a hot or cold engine. Note that I have a dash mounted switch to manually control my PSE valves and I have bypassed the speed sensor wiring at the relay cradle.
  5. I'll temporarily disconnect/seal the vacuum lines at the solenoid to see if this has any effect to try and isolate the issue. I was thinking along the lines that the actual mechanical valve on the muffler(s) may be possibly moving somewhat when hot? Switch/solenoid are working fine as the PSE note at WOT is unchanged (as far as I can tell) whether the mufflers/engine are cold or hot. It really is only noticeable when accelerating from idle, up through to say 4K rpm - The sound is distinctively different depending on whether the car is cold or hot.
  6. I have a '04 996 with the factory PSE fitted - Not sure if this is related but I have noticed that when my engine & exhaust is cold the PSE is quite loud and agressive even at low RPMs (2 to 4K). When driving around and allowing the engine and exhaust components to fully heat up, the exhaust note is definitely quite a bit different - At high RPM the PSE still sounds fine when the components are hot but it loses the low RPM tone/bark and the PSE sounds very quiet until the engine is wound up past 4K rpm. Mine is controlled by the switch on the dash - I have been thinking lately that maybe somehow the muffler valves are possibly closing slightly on the mufflers as the whole exhaust becomes hot when driving for 30mins+ ?? I can sometimes also hear a tinny sounding rattle as I accelerate at low speed which I think is one of the vacuum operated valves rattling on the mufflers as I have heard of other cars with similar symptoms in the past - I may need to pop my head under the car and see if I can temporarily physically 'Lock' the muffler valves in the open position to verify this.
  7. No ! - The oil level when the engine is sitting still is way below the RMS seal level/lip etc, so no oil can escape even if the seal was removed. Oil will only reach the seal while the engine is running. If the seal is leaking - what will happen is that the oil will be spread around the seal area when the engine is running and once stopped, it will pool on the outside of the seal and drip down (if the leak is large enough).
  8. Why not just get the whole wheel re-sprayed in the correct paint code. I had clipped a kurb ever so lightly when turning into a tight side street and caused some scratches on the lip of my rear sport techno rim. These bothered me - so I took the wheel off and gave to a group that specialize in wheel touchups/repairs etc. It only cost me AUD $150 to have the rim stripped and resprayed etc in the original colour. It now looks as good as new etc.
  9. Do a search on this forum as there are two rates that the Coolant Light can flash at. The two diffrent rates indicate either a coolant level issue or a fan issue depending on the rate that the light flashes.
  10. 3500 RPM does not sound like such a big deal for the clutch - Just don't do it every day :D I'd be surprised if the smell was the clutch as this should only really occur if you had slippage or if you were riding the clutch for a while while dumping it at 3500. Also you mention that the smell was there the following day. Normally if you get the clutch hot and it smells it should be ok the following day (as far as the smells are concerned) as the clutch should be cold etc? I have launched at around 3 to 4K RPMs and have not noticed any smell etc but I normally do not hold the revs at those figures and just let the clutch out. I normally blip the throttle and let the clutch out as the engine is spooling down from say 4K RPMs and when it engages a reasonable amount? I then wind up the throttle - Timing is everything though....Probably not as fast on takeoff but probably not too aggressive on the clutch either.
  11. A good trick used by the Pros to remove water spots on paint is the use of some normal household Vinegar... I'd probably try some slightly diluted first and see how it goes. Water spots will not necessarily disappear with a wax coating. The spots normally occur due to water deposits actually etching (if left untreated for a while) into your paint finish. Keeping your car waxed etc minimises water drying in pools on your paint surface which in turn minimises the spots.
  12. Yes you can achieve this with some extra minor electronic circuitry and a dual colour LED (many Dual Colour Leds come in Green/Red or Yellow/Red or even Green Yellow - some are now appearing with Blue + an extra colour etc if that takes your fancy). A couple of transistors and 3 or 4 resistors would allow you to achieve this...
  13. Driving lamps etc with AC rather than is quite common in preventing problems with material deposition etc. Valves, CRTs, and various other electron tube devices driven off DC suffer from these issues over time. Mainly due to the buildup or removal of electrons from a particular surface (eg Anode/Cathode/ plates and even heater filaments in valve assemblies etc). This problem is much worse for higher current devices (more electron flow). Using AC drive (where possible in the design) can alleviate the issue to some degree as you do not have continuous high electric fields present between metals etc in one direction only.
  14. US or Row car? I know US cars blink twice on arm and disarm but I don't know about RoW cars. Loren - ROW cars (Well my '04car 'Downunder') blink twice on Arming and only once on Dis-arming.
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