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binaryc

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Everything posted by binaryc

  1. I replaced my window regulator about a year ago and have had an annoying rattle when the window was down ever since. I finally got around to figuring out what the problem is and discovered there's supposed to be a stopper in the upper slot, but mine does not have that. I'm not sure if I never got one with my new regulator or if I accidentally threw it out. Either way, I don't have it. Does anyone know if they can be purchased separately or should I just ask someone who has a 996 and doesn't need the upper stop?
  2. unbelievable! I found this thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=13697 and the sound in that video is exactly what mine sounds like! same side, too! you guys have saved me so much agony, I felt compelled to donate to the site :renntech:
  3. ok, I talked to another shop who said if it really is a fouled camshaft then the official Porsche repair method is a new engine. I can tow it in to them and they'll be able to better guess at what the problem is (though there's no way to know for sure without taking it apart). The sound is definitely coming from inside the engine though. I selected the oil based on this: http://www.986faq.com/2-0/default.asp#011 being in Dallas, the temperature rarely gets below freezing (and I have a garage for when it does). If I have to spend over $10k to repair it, I'd rather just buy a new car. This brings me to my next question: what can I do with my old one? I know I won't be able to sell it for what I owe, so I'm going to take a loss either way. Can I sell it for parts? Any guess on how much I could get for it? Other than this, it's in good condition.
  4. it's got about 80,000 miles, I've been replacing the oil roughly every 6000 miles or so using only the fully synthetic Mobil 1 (10w30). I bought it used at around 55,000 miles so god only knows what the previous owners did.
  5. ok he thinks it's a fouled camshaft due to oil sludge, which is not repairable. He is quoting $9900 for a new engine plus $1500 for labor. I really have no idea what to do. I still owe $10,000 on the car and the KBB value is only $13,500 in great condition.
  6. I've got a '99 boxster that's making a chirping/squeeking sound from the left engine area. I took it to a local place (Autoscope in Dallas) who says it's a worn camshaft journal that will require pulling the engine and a lot of work. Should I get a second opinion? I've done all of my own maintenance on it so when the chirp started I tried troubleshooting it myself but couldn't find anything.
  7. I guess nobody knows... Good news is I didn't have to replace the electric change-over valve after all. Just replacing the shut-off valve seems to have fixed the problem.
  8. Is there any way to replace the various bits of the SAI system without removing the intake distributor? I have a flexible hose clamp remover and was able to replace the shut-off valve, but gave up trying to replace the change-over valve. Didn't try the check valve, but that looks like it would have been impossible as well. If my hand was any bigger I wouldn't have been able to replace even the shut-off valve. I figure I must be missing something...
  9. Well the first thing to do is take it to autozone and have them pull the exact codes (it's a free service they provide). I think if the light is blinking it means there is something seriously wrong and you should get it checked out asap... I could be wrong though, check the manual.
  10. hm, maybe it did fix it... I reset the codes, drove it 300 miles, and it hasn't come back :thumbup:
  11. replacing the air/oil seperator didn't fix it :-/ Code came back after 20 miles....
  12. yeah, I figured people might think I'm a shill for pelican, but I already had all the links handy from when I bought my stuff so I figured I'd post them so people wouldn't have to go searching.
  13. Mostly I used this forum. The search feature is fantastic, just make sure you put a + before each word or it will search for posts that contain any of the words (so "air oil seperator" will return any post with 'air', 'oil', or 'seperator' in them but "+air +oil +seperator" will only return posts with all three words). Most of my store trips were due to me thinking I had a part when I really didn't. This could have been avoided if I had just laid out all my tools that I will need ahead of time, but I'm not that smart. Here are the tools/parts I needed for each of the jobs. I put a star next to the ones I had to make an unplanned store trip for. I'm doing this from memory so it may be incomplete. All the parts (except the Air/Oil Seperator) should run you about $330 total if you replace your brake pads, or $150 otherwise. It'll probably take a couple hours if you don't do the Air/Oil Seperator, much less if you don't change your brake pads either. Tire Removal Tools Torque Wrench (~100lbs of force) 19mm socket for torque wrench Lug Nut Key (if you have locks) * Jack + Stands (I wish I remember who I loaned my old ones to...) Cabin Filter Fresh New Cabin Filter 996-572-219-02 ?? Allen wrench (just get a whole set of allen wrenches and you'll be fine) Air Filter Fresh New Air Filter 996-110-131-04 No Tools Needed! Polyrib Belt Fresh New Polyrib Belt 996-102-151-66 10mm socket * 24mm socket * Long handle socket wrench/ratchet (Breaker bar) Oil Change 9 Quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic (15w50) Fresh New Oil Filter + O-Ring 996-107-225-53 * Oil Drain Plug (if it's badly stripped) 900-219-009-30 * Oil Drain Plug Seal (Aluminum 'Crush' Ring) 900-123-106-30 ?? Allen Wrench (Included in the tool kit under the hood next to the spare tire, the same wrench used to extract the headlights) * Oil Filter Wrench (74mm, 14 dimples) Oil Drain Pan (should hold at least 10qt) Jack + Jack Stands Spark Plugs 6 Bosh Spark Plugs 999-170-201-90 Anti-Seize (Some People say to use this, but I didn't because of this note ) ?? Allen Wrench (not sure of the size, I just grabbed one out of my set that fit) Socket Wrench * 6" Socket Wrench extension Spark plug socket 10mm socket (for removing the trim panel) Tire Removal Tools Brake Pads Front Pads 986-351-939-15 Rear Pads 996-352-939-03 Needle Nose Pliers Screwdriver + Hammer (for tapping out a pin) Tweezers (for removing sensors) Curse Words (for when the sensors don't come out) Tire Removal Tools Note: You only need one set of front pads, and one set of rear pads. They are sold 'per axle' rather than 'per wheel'. There are cheaper pads, but those are the ones that were on my car already, so those are the ones I got. Brake Flush Motive Power Bleeder PEL-0100 Brake Fluid SUPER-BLUE or SUPER-GOLD * 11mm box wrench Jug to put the old fluid in (I used the empty brake fluid can) Tire Removal Tools Fuel Filter Fresh New Fuel Filter 996-110-253-01 ????? Air/Oil Seperator Fresh New Air/Oil Seperator 996-107-023-03 10mm socket 2 flat-head screwdrivers * Screw type hose clamp (don't remember the exact size, get an assorted multi-pack) Insanity / Masochism I went to walmart and autozone, neither had one :-/
  14. I decided to tackle my 60,000 mile maintenance this week. I also threw in an air/oil seperator change for the fun of it. Comments below: Cabin Filter That the dealer charges for this service is a crime. Less than 5 minutes. Unscrew a screw, slide the old one out, slide the old one in, rescrew the screw. Air Filter You have to take the engine compartment lid off, which takes at least 5 minutes. After that it's pop-out/pop-in. Couldn't be much easier. Multirib Belt / Poly Belt / Serpentine Belt Super easy. 30 minutes or less. I had to buy a 24mm socket and a cheater bar, but the socket was cheap and I've been needing a cheater bar for a while anyway. Engine Clean Not too bad. I bought 2 cans of Gunk Engine Bright and sprayed the underside profusely. It had a ton of caked on road grime that emulsified and dripped down the driveway. Just make sure you are not in the stream. Oil / Filter Change Moderately Easy once you get the car jacked up. I couldn't find an oil filter wrench that fit anywhere (74mm 14 dimples). I found a 74mm 15 dimples but unsuprisingly, that didn't work. I ended up having to use a strap, which are always awkward. I prefer the kind you can jab a screwdriver through :) My drain plug was stripped to almost a complete circle. I hammered in the biggest torx bit that would fit, then I had to take an unplanned 1 hour trip to the dealer to get a new one :( At least it gave the oil time to drain... I did discover Porsche provides an allen wrench of just the perfect size in the tool kit under the hood. Spark Plugs Not too bad once you get the rear wheels off. You pretty have to remove a trim panel to got to the front plugs, but it's not hard to do. Be sure you have a 6" extension bar for your ratchet. I had to go buy one (yet another unplanned trip...) :-/ Make sure you plug in all the plugs before starting the engine or you will get a sound like a cat caught in the engine (don't ask me how I know this). Brake Pad Change Moderately Hard. Changing the pads is super easy (again, once you get the wheels off). The hard part is getting the stupid sensors out of the old pads :angry: I found a good trick to that. Get the pad out, pull on the sensor wire while pushing in one of the tabs, it should come out a tiny bit, now push the opposite tab and it should pop out. Brake Fluid Flush Since I was already down there changing the pads, it wasn't too bad. I have a Motive Power Bleeder so I had to keep pumping it up and letting it out (pump it up to flush one brake, let it out to change the next pad). Air/Oil Seperator No man should ever change this... ever. It was not designed to be replaced while the engine is still attached to the car, this much is obvious. The threads here were very useful. I would have killed myself trying to get the clamp reattached, buying a screw-type clamp was much nicer. My old one did have a cracked bellow, so I hope that will cure my CEL. Things I did not do: Change fuel filter I bought one, but really didn't feel like tackling it just yet (not after everything else... I need a vacation). Clean Radiators I may do that this weekend. I had planned to do it while the front right wheel was off, but by that time I was getting tired and decided to put it off to another day. Flush Cooling System I flushed it about 3 months ago. Misc Notes on jacking it up When buying a jackstand... make sure it's shorter than your jack maximum height. Jacking it up in the middle rear (right behind the oil pan) then putting the jacks on the rear strut things like Toolpants suggests worked out nicely. Total Time: 18 Hours including all the unplanned shopping trips (4 in total), cleanup, testing, eating, etc...
  15. I have a feeling my MAF sensor is going bad... it was just replaced about a year ago (sadly, just more than a year ago, so I can't get it replaced for free under the 1yr parts warranty). I cleaned it with electrical cleaner, but the codes came back after 40 miles. I just wanted to check with you guys before I spring another $300 for a new MAF sensor.
  16. pecivil is right, the spoiler on the boxster is a true spoiler in that it spoils the air coming over the top of the car, producing drag and reducing lift. What most people call a spoiler is actually an airfoil. Basically an upside down airplane wing that produces a downward force on the car. http://www.answers.com/spoiler http://www.answers.com/airfoil The lift equation is ( velocity squared ) * ( coefficient of lift ) * ( surface area ) * ( density of air / 2 ) Notice that velocity is squared. This means a tiny 15mph change between 75 and 90mph is actually a 225mphph change as far as lift is concerned. Also note that the 'tiny' 15mph change is a 20% increase in speed. In planes, 15mph can be the difference between airborn and on the ground. See Also: http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/K-12/airplane/foil2.html (In addition to being a Boxster owner, I'm also a pilot so I've studied lift quite a bit)
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