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Option #2- 225F/245R will be fine. I have run 255/17 Rcomps on the front with no rubbing issues. What would I shoe my Boxster in for Spa and Nordschleife? Kumho V710 255/17 all around...Not the ideal choice for everyone and the 255s will not fit on your front wheels.

Ok, a couple questions first: How serious do you want to get? How big are you? What safety requirements does your track day sanctioning organization have?

If your near term goal is doing a few DEs a year I suggest to my students to stay with the stock seats and run quality street tires. If Time Trials or other forms of racing are in your near future but you want to stay street legal I suggest a quality FIA tested/approved seat from Sparco, Recaro, Cobra, Momo, or others. Why FIA tested? Because safety is very important in a seat. A stock seat or FIA seat are unlikely to fail in an accident resulting in you being ejected from your car. Choose wisely and avoid the cheapies with low prices and zero safety testing. Before buying do a meet and greet with other drivers at the track next time. Ask them about their racing seats. If you find someone near your size ask if it would be ok to sit in it. Most will share a great deal if you ask politely. For reference I am 5'10 and 175lbs with long torso. The Cobra Imola Pro is mounted in my car and I am very satisfied. It was about $900 each including seat, mounting hardware and tax. Good luck.

So we had it on a hoiste, and it turns out that it's coming from the left side valve cover, what could be making this noise? What would be some good guesses? And how tough is it to fix it?

My brother has a 99 that made similar chirping sounds from the rocker cover. It turned out to be worn chain tensioner guides. They were nearly worn through. If we had not caught this in time... Ka-boom. A loose spark plug will also make a chirping sound like that.

And when the engine blows from the boost it wasn't designed for, you can install the 3.4. Jake Raby has already expressed how weak the connecting rods and other internals are...about the only thing up to snuff are the heads. I realize 4.5 psi is not that great, but you already have a fairly high compression ratio of 11:1 to deal with.

I imagine that if the Boxster engines were blowing up, the company would not be in business very long....And they have been. I would assume that the engineers and technicians at this company

take into account the engine specs....They do not just fit a pipe and turbo and wait for it to blow. In fact, these folks at TPC have developed The World's Fastest VTG 997Turbo. So they must know

something about forced induction and turbos?

Any modification has the potential to strain an engine.....So if you want to go with that concept....Buy the cars and leave them all stock.

Yes. TPC does know a lot about FI on the Boxster... which is why they abandoned all support for the turbo or SC on a Boxster 2.5L. (see their website) Just too many scattered parts all over the racetrack. Anything can be done if you throw enough money at it but the 3.4 conversion is tried and true with lots of cars turning approx 300hp at the wheels with no driveability issues. Personally I prefer to run my 2.5L with a bone stock motor and simply drive around all those turbo cars. Suggestion: Run your car on the track for a year and then decide if you really need a more HP. It may surprise you.

Recommend proper way to tow behind A motorhome any ideas or option i have a dolly

Dolly not recommended for a Porsche. Transaxles are expensive to replace. We use a full car trailer (four wheels up).

A fairly common problem on the 986/996. My brothers 99 had guides nearly as bad at 68k miles. A combination of lame materials and long oil change intervals recommended by the factory.

Did you mean Auto Club Speedway in Fontana?? Dang! Never heard about it.

FYI: Ontario Motor Speedway was bulldozed in 1980. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ontario_Motor_Speedway

Those tires will be a little taller than your originals but should fit fine. Hey, your speedo might even be accurate now. :lol: Back in my Ski **** days we discovered that tall narrow tires offered more traction and better pothole protection in snow and slush.

Eric,

I believe JFP got it right. It is a sensor for your PSM and the location is important. If you are willing to ditch the PSM system entirely then you can remove it.

Caveat: my car does not have this PSM sensor and I have never removed one but I have seen similar sensors on other German cars. You are on your own as far as procedure or results.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.

Sorry,

I am afraid you are a lone wolf out there with a TPC SC. Unlikely anyone here will have a clue. All the other TPC SC 986s went kaboom years ago. Last I heard TPC also discontinued all support for the 986 SC.

It is unusual to get both rich and lean codes at the same time. I suppose it is possible if the MAF sensor is going south and giving inconsistent readings from day to day. Try simply unplugging the MAF and go for a spin. If the car runs better, replace the MAF. Cleaning the MAF works sometimes but is often a temporary fix.

I have a 2.5lb FE firmly mounted to the pass. seat using a bracket I fashioned from a $10 lumber bracing bracket. It is very strong and the price was right. My car will now pass tech at every race track.

I have mixed feelings about it though. Modern cars are really very fire safe and I believe that in a serious collision the risk of injury from a "loose cannon" fire extinguisher outweighs the risk of injury from a fire that a 2.5 lb Ext. will put out. I have used small fire extinguishers before and found them to be pretty ineffective at dousing any serious car/boat fire. The one benefit is that it will buy time to get out of the car. If using it allows me to get out safely, it is worth the annoyance of having it .

OEM or Mintex work fine for the street. Pagid orange or black for high temp track use. My limited experience with ceramic pads reveals that they need lots of heat for full braking effectiveness and when putting around town, cold ceramics often squeal like a pig. Polish your wheels and they will gather less dust.

All sounds normal for a 8 year old car. Definitely different than Honda , VW.

Thanks Seafeye. A thorough look at braking forces and stopping distances and what makes brakes work. A braking system upgrade requires math if you want to get the most out of it. I am betting Penske and Ganassi figured this out already. The average shade tree tuner at your local track day... not so much.

If you eliminate the DME the only thing left is heat damage to the harness or DME power source. This is very likely considering what was going on inside your trunk. Any other possibilities? The process of elimination works great as long as we don't overlook anything along the way.

Eric,

I feel for you man. These are the troubleshooting issues that make my brain hurt. I do think you are very very close. All indications point to DME/sensor communication issues. You said you had your tech burn in fresh DME software? What about the DME hardware? Those little brains don't care for heat much. If the problem is heat to the harness it will usually fail at the connectors and not inside the bundle. Harness chaff or rodent damage is usually easy to spot. I think you have ruled everything else out. What is still missing???

I currently have 255/40/17 tires on my 17" rims... and am thinking of getting track tires like Michelin Pilot Cup Sport...

unfortunately they don't come in 255 or 265 width like the PS2 but they only come in 275 width...

below is revs per mile from the 255 tire... and also for the 275 series tire... does anybody think there will be a problem ... I'm using the standard 9" rims which tire rack website says will work with 275 width

my front tires are 225/45/17

its going on a 99 C2 with ROW 030 suspension

PS2 tires

255/40ZR17 REVS per MILE 831

265/40ZR17 REVS per MILE 822

Michelin Pilot Cup Sport tires..

275/40ZR17 REVS per MILE 810

275/40/17 should fit ok but they are pretty tall = higher effective gearing/slower turn exit. You may be better off with Kumho's, Toyo's or Yoko's in 17". You don't say what event you are setting up for. If it's a DE just shred some street tires. It's a non competitive event. Who cares? If you are running in a time trials get the widest, stickiest tires your class allows for the timed runs.

I have a 99 boxster got the 1123 and 1125 codes, from the research i figured i needed a new maf. i replaced the maf and got the same codes after about 3 drive cycles. i really need help i dont know what else to check next. the bellows looked good i checked it today and also have looked for anything obvious

:welcome:

P1123 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Lean Threshold

P1125 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Lean Threshold

This says that the DME thinks your mixture is too rich - and can make it lean enough.

Potential causes are:

- Fuel pressure too high.

- Fuel injector leaking.

- EVAP canister purge valve open.

Make sure the MAF is functioning properly by reading the air flow at idle and at 2500 RPM no load (you will need Durametric software, a PST2 or PIWIS tester to do this).

Scan for more codes - It could be a stuck EVAP purge valve.

my scanners will not give me much information, i really doubt an injector problem on both banks, how could i determine a stuck evap valve

Check for additional error codes. If you have evap issues you should get codes.

For maximum horsepower and torque...Stock intake and filter. For cool induction sound...EVO. Pick your pleasure.

I just went through a similar experience. Cleared a CEL just before smog test and the car came up "not ready". Drove to the PCA breakfast with a little spirited country road afterward and I passed on the second inspection. Just go for a fun drive. :D

Bingo!

Many high end car audio shops can do this for you. They dampen the wheel wells, and use a combination of sound barriers and sound absorbers to reduce road noise in the cabin. The result is pretty dramatic.

Yes. Failed DME or O2 sensor to DME harness and connectors. This is where your error codes are leading. Good luck!

Eric,

Good news! I think you have isolated the problem:

Intermittent contact between bank 2 O2 sensors and the DME. Your error codes point to this as well. This makes sense now. Your car runs fine until things heat up and get rattled around. When you back off the throttle something shifts, contacts are broken and the DME says WTF?? and your car stumbles. Reinspect the wiring and connectors between the two. Cheap and easy fix.

Possibilities:

1 Frayed wires to ground

2. Rats chewed wiring

3. faulty intermittent connector end

4. cold solder joint within the DME

Regarding mixture issues... Yes. Basic A/F mixture is set globally. Not independently for each bank or cylinder. The DME then fine trims each bank based on O2 sensor values. If the DME or MAF was sending your mixture out of spec you would get trim codes on both banks: 1123/1125 or 1128/1130. Since you have not seen these on both banks your basic mixture should be A-OK.

Good luck and good hunting.