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With 175K it sounds like you definitely got your money's worth out of that car. I only hope to do as well. Choices: Put a used 3.2 back in Put a 3.6L in there and keep driving Sell it as a roller Part it out From what I can see it has been very well cared for and the fact that you know the entire history of the car has a lot of intangable value. Good luck with your car.
Oversteer (rear end steps out) with a 225/285 stagger?? That sounds very unusual. To give you meaningful input we need to know more about your car. Any suspension mods and settings, 600hp Chevy LS1 motor transplant:) etc. On a stock car with this tire stagger the car would have significant understeer (push) unless something was disconnected or broken. Hot tire pressures taken immediately after a session are the only ones that matter.
Hi Gus, I believe the ST-43 is a custom cut pad for our cars with base brakes. Call these guys and they will cut you a set: http://porterfield-brakes.com/manufacturers/shop/Raybestos.html
Further diagnosis is needed. Is the sound coming from the front (WP/Belt/PS pump), Rear(exhaust leak), L or R side (spark plug/worn chain guides), bottom center (IMS)? A loose spark plug is no big deal. A failed WP or chain tensioner guide is a motor killer.
That's what I was thinking; if any of the plugs in the engine came out, there should be "consequences", but you haven't mentioned any. I wonder if it was an "extra" left in there when the unit was assembled? +1 It doesn't look like it was ever pressed in. Like a clamp that a medical doctor left in a patient during surgery... it happens. It just went along for an extended oil pan ride and luckily didn't trash the motor.
21= Base M030 23.6mm 3.5mm 23= Box S M030 24.0mm 3.8mm Suggestion from an old track rat: If I wanted to do a custom sway setup using Porsche bars, I would put the Base M030 on the rear and leave the front alone. YMMV
My S only has 29K+ miles on it so changing struts won't make any difference, I would think. No probably not, unless the car lives in snow country and sees a lot of winter road salt. 8 years of road salt would take it's toll on the struts. All good info to include in your OP to get the most relevant responses: (yr, model, mileage, tire sizes & model, location, typical driving ) All of these may affect your ride comfort. FYI : I just pulled a set of base Boxster springs off last week. If you want em I'll pull em out of the recycle bin.
Get new struts. After 80k miles my brother changed the struts on his 99 Box. We spent some time going over his old ones and they were in terrible shape. Very little consistent dampening in either compression or rebound. The car is transformed to a much more comfortable and predictable ride. I followed suit and changed my struts at 93K. Mine were in better shape but still a long way from ideal.
Brake needs vary a lot depending on how you drive the car. I posted this recently over on 986forum: If you do a lot of track days you will surely run into brake issues at some point. Smoked pads, pad fade, boiled brake fluid, gummed rotors, warped rotors, bias issues, etc. Over the years I have gone through the trial and error process: run stock Porsche pads, Mintex, Pagid Orange, Pagid Black, Pagid Yellow RS19, Raybestos ST-43, Porsche rotors, Balo rotors, Zimmerman rotors, Porsche Fluid, ATE fluid, Motul fluid. My current favorite setup: Plain Jane Zimmerman rotors $80ea Raybestos ST-43 Pads $250/set Motul 600 brake fluid $16/pt Porsche 997GT3 brake ducts $20/set This is not a scientific study in any way, just the only setup that has never let me down. I change fluid twice a year and change pads when pad material approaches the metal backing thickness. I have explored different bias setups and just prefer using the same pad compound on all four corners. The ST-43 pads are a fully competition pad that last forever with no heat issues ever. They are a little intense for street use and will easily overpower a set of front 205 street tires, quickly invoking ABS. They also squeal a bit around town when cold. With a set of comp tires running deep into braking zones on a hot day (95F) they are flawless.
225s up front add grip for better dry cornering/stopping power. Be sure to match your rolling circumference so you don't goof up your ABS. Lots of choices depending on your wheel size 16,17,18,19, 20". I run 225/255 17s.
Agreed. They will also not fit under stock wheel wells. They are pretty heavy at 26lbs, so the car will feel/go much slower. It would be like losing 20 hp from your motor. Stock 17x8.5 wheels weigh 21.5 lbs. http://www.forgestar...STAR1911F14.pdf
Another way to burn down a perfectly good Boxster is to bolt on a set of Chinese headers and forget that they get red hot under use. Failure to tie back power steering lines or other combustibles that might come in contact with aftermarket headers has killed half a dozen cars that I know of in the last 5 years.
Sounds like the most likely possibility from what has been said so far. It may in fact be unrelated to the IMS retrofit work if the tensioner guide simply failed. 23 degrees out is a lot.