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Everything posted by Topless

  1. With 175K it sounds like you definitely got your money's worth out of that car. I only hope to do as well. Choices: Put a used 3.2 back in Put a 3.6L in there and keep driving Sell it as a roller Part it out From what I can see it has been very well cared for and the fact that you know the entire history of the car has a lot of intangable value. Good luck with your car.
  2. Oversteer (rear end steps out) with a 225/285 stagger?? That sounds very unusual. To give you meaningful input we need to know more about your car. Any suspension mods and settings, 600hp Chevy LS1 motor transplant:) etc. On a stock car with this tire stagger the car would have significant understeer (push) unless something was disconnected or broken. Hot tire pressures taken immediately after a session are the only ones that matter.
  3. Hi Gus, I believe the ST-43 is a custom cut pad for our cars with base brakes. Call these guys and they will cut you a set: http://porterfield-brakes.com/manufacturers/shop/Raybestos.html
  4. Further diagnosis is needed. Is the sound coming from the front (WP/Belt/PS pump), Rear(exhaust leak), L or R side (spark plug/worn chain guides), bottom center (IMS)? A loose spark plug is no big deal. A failed WP or chain tensioner guide is a motor killer.
  5. That's what I was thinking; if any of the plugs in the engine came out, there should be "consequences", but you haven't mentioned any. I wonder if it was an "extra" left in there when the unit was assembled? +1 It doesn't look like it was ever pressed in. Like a clamp that a medical doctor left in a patient during surgery... it happens. It just went along for an extended oil pan ride and luckily didn't trash the motor.
  6. 21= Base M030 23.6mm 3.5mm 23= Box S M030 24.0mm 3.8mm Suggestion from an old track rat: If I wanted to do a custom sway setup using Porsche bars, I would put the Base M030 on the rear and leave the front alone. YMMV
  7. Yes. Scroll down your CB Racing link. All the dimensions are there:) http://www.cb-racing.com/boxster_030.html
  8. It does vary somewhat from car to car but -1.5 deg. front, and - 2.0 deg rear are pretty typical. Bent cars are anybody's guess.
  9. My S only has 29K+ miles on it so changing struts won't make any difference, I would think. No probably not, unless the car lives in snow country and sees a lot of winter road salt. 8 years of road salt would take it's toll on the struts. All good info to include in your OP to get the most relevant responses: (yr, model, mileage, tire sizes & model, location, typical driving ) All of these may affect your ride comfort. FYI : I just pulled a set of base Boxster springs off last week. If you want em I'll pull em out of the recycle bin.
  10. Get new struts. After 80k miles my brother changed the struts on his 99 Box. We spent some time going over his old ones and they were in terrible shape. Very little consistent dampening in either compression or rebound. The car is transformed to a much more comfortable and predictable ride. I followed suit and changed my struts at 93K. Mine were in better shape but still a long way from ideal.
  11. Brake needs vary a lot depending on how you drive the car. I posted this recently over on 986forum: If you do a lot of track days you will surely run into brake issues at some point. Smoked pads, pad fade, boiled brake fluid, gummed rotors, warped rotors, bias issues, etc. Over the years I have gone through the trial and error process: run stock Porsche pads, Mintex, Pagid Orange, Pagid Black, Pagid Yellow RS19, Raybestos ST-43, Porsche rotors, Balo rotors, Zimmerman rotors, Porsche Fluid, ATE fluid, Motul fluid. My current favorite setup: Plain Jane Zimmerman rotors $80ea Raybestos S
  12. 225s up front add grip for better dry cornering/stopping power. Be sure to match your rolling circumference so you don't goof up your ABS. Lots of choices depending on your wheel size 16,17,18,19, 20". I run 225/255 17s.
  13. Agreed. They will also not fit under stock wheel wells. They are pretty heavy at 26lbs, so the car will feel/go much slower. It would be like losing 20 hp from your motor. Stock 17x8.5 wheels weigh 21.5 lbs. http://www.forgestar...STAR1911F14.pdf
  14. Another way to burn down a perfectly good Boxster is to bolt on a set of Chinese headers and forget that they get red hot under use. Failure to tie back power steering lines or other combustibles that might come in contact with aftermarket headers has killed half a dozen cars that I know of in the last 5 years.
  15. Sounds like the most likely possibility from what has been said so far. It may in fact be unrelated to the IMS retrofit work if the tensioner guide simply failed. 23 degrees out is a lot.
  16. Thanks for the input guys. New pads, rotors, and GT3 ducts are on, and all is well. Two track days and the brakes feel great. Changing Brake components is not an option in SPEC racing so I changed my methods. My new cooldown method is to really granny drive the final cool down lap and take a short drive down paddock road for extra cooling time. So far so good.
  17. A 245/45/16 would fit without rubbing unless you have extreme lowered suspension. You probably don't want to mount it on that 6" front rim though. A 225/245 stagger would work on stock rims. One of our local drivers was running 275/40/16s on16x9 rims all around to good effect. Fenders were definitely rolled though. This website is very useful for sizing and comparisons: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=Ecsta+V710
  18. Sounds like a motor mount. Were the motor mounts replaced with the new motor?
  19. Three likely possibilities: 1. Failed oil cooler- test and replace 2. Failed head/head gasket- symptom: intermix often accompanied by extreme cooling system pressure. If coolant is entering one or more combustion chambers a spark plug inspection should reveal it (fouled or discolored plug) 3. Failed internal freeze plug- engine teardown may be required. The oil cooler is the simplest and least expensive to fix so I would probably start there unless there were other symptoms.
  20. Suggestion: Just keep the rpm between 4k-6k when AXing and drive the car. There are a lot of drivers in SoCal who AX very well with Box Tips. Most just leave it in 2nd and focus on the line and getting their corner entry speeds right. I think max torque is 4800 in our cars so you can use all of it.
  21. Callas Rennsport- Torrance Red Line- Long Beach I know both owners and both are very capable shops. You can come by PCA-GPX for breakfast this Saturday at Frisco's Carhop in LB and chat with the shop owners in a casual setting.
  22. Before you spent all that money, you may want to do what I did. I took out my right rear wheel and saw a cable kind of coursing through along with a rear suspension component- I'm not sure if it's the control arm or trailing arm, or what you might call it. At any rate, the cable (I believe is the parking brake cable) has some give to it. And when I do flop it around it does seem to make contact with the metal arm and make noise. I remember reading some treads about the cable might cause noise problem, so I put a plastic cable tie and tied it to the metal arm next to it. I didn't really h
  23. Interesting. I have never done this and I don't know anyone who does but it is possible that certain pads retain enough heat to cause damage even while the brakes are disengaged.
  24. Have a great time! I have never run or even seen the Vredesteins so no opinion on them. R888s don't work very well for us out west though. Most drivers here prefer RA-1s, Nitto NT-01s, BFG R1s or the Kumho V710s in our sizes.
  25. Ok veteran Boxster track guys we need your input. This weekend my brother and I completed a two day time trial at Buttonwillow in unusually cool conditions and both our front rotors are really warped when hot. My car has Balo rotors and his are OEM but they are equally thrashed. I doubt they could be turned out because the serious judder only happens after lap 2 (hot). It gets so bad that in heavy braking zones I can barely hang on to the car. Any good solutions for better rotors/better heat management for the fronts? GT3 ducts? Dryer ducting? Evaporative mist system? We are running BSX cars t
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