Topless

Calipers not releasing?

Yep. When calipers bind and fail to release they usually wear heavily on the inside rotor.

In SoCal there is a light blue 914 running around with a 455 Olds shoehorned in there. The driver is known only as "Spunk". I guess you could say his car is Very Spunky?!?!

3 years, 15k miles, 6 track days, 5 AX days, 2 days SDR performance driving school, my OEM pads are not even half gone yet and are as consistent and fade free as ever. Wonderful Porsche brakes. Don't fix it if it ain't broke. I vote OEM.

Post script,

Graeme (Highlander) is being very modest here but he holds multiple SCCA National titles and is one of the fastest Boxster drivers in the country. If he likes OEM brakes, I like OEM brakes. It's a little like asking Michael Phelps which swimsuit he used in the Olympics.

Yes, 5w50 oil may slow the oil consumption but won't solve the problem. 1qt in 700 mi is a lot of oil burning through one bank. A compression/leakdown test should rule out bad rings. Sooting in one bank only should rule out the AOS. Maybe a bad valve guide that is gushing oil when the valve is open. I would still want a look at the plugs on the suspect bank. Something is not right and we don't want the motor to go all shrapnel on us one day. There are only 3 cylinders on that side. One of them is in trouble. Have a closer look.

I've a 2000 base, w/ 50K mile. It's my commuter and fun weekend drives car.

I'm replacing Bridgestone Potenza SO3 Pole Positions, probably w/ B-stone RE-01R but maybe w/ Goodyear F1 GS-D3. Comments?

My question concerns an alignment. Would you trust a tire shop doing an alignment or should I take it to a Porsche specialist?

The Stones will be a stickier tire with a fairly stiff sidewall for precise handling during performance driving. The Goodyears will run quieter, last longer and give a smoother ride, but give up a little precision in the corners. Always a tradeoff...

If the tire shop has a modern alignment rig and a very experienced operator you should be fine. Make sure he is has Porsche experience. Our cars have a fairly wide range of alignment specs so talk to him about your driving style, % highway miles vs performance driving miles and track days. You will get the best tire wear if the alignment is adjusted to you.

That does sound like high oil consumption. It's got to be burning off somewhere. Any fouled/dirty spark plugs on the suspected bank? My car loses 1 qt per 10,000 miles. 76k on odometer.

I see two possibilities so far:

1. Camshaft sensor is bad, confusing the DME and causing misfire.

2. Camshaft in bank 2 has actually slipped out of position and a grenade is going off inside your motor. The sensor is simply reporting the problem.

A flashing CEL means do not restart the car. Drain the oil through a screen and check for bomb fragments. If the oil is completely clean you may still be able to save her.

Someone on this board replaced a bad gas cap and solved these codes. Give it a look.

Lucky,

I see three likely possibilities:

1. The new filter is dragging on the pulley and you just missed it. Remove the filter and start the car to check it.

2. While changing the filter a loose screw or washer fell in the intake and was injested into a cylinder. Not the end of the world but needs to be removed ASAP.

3. A noisy lifter just developed and is unrelated to the new filter. Engine oil clean and levels ok? Should be repairable.

Good luck.

Hi friends,

I finally went the extra mile and exchanged my 16'' winter set (new tires included) for a set of track, 17'' OEM Boxster rims. I run a 18'' OEM set with Conti's as a 'regular' set.

It is now time for the tires... Since this is going to be a track set and I am not a skilled driver I have narrowed down to 2 options: (1) Kumho Ecsta Mx; (2) Falken Avenis RT-615...Thank you so much 'Topless' for all the guidance...

I am running 225/45/17 and 255/40/17 in the front and rear respectivelly. My questions are:

(1) Anyone with experience with either tire in a Porsche?

(2) I am basically looking into DE (track) events, will any of these be better - sometimes it does rain during track days in NJ, but I will probably not push to the limit in these occasions?

PS: Bridgestones RE 01-R are not included in the list for they are in another price range..

All the best,

Gus

:renntech:

You are welcome Gus.

I have not run these tires but several friends (track hounds) do and they mirror the observations of Silver Arrow. The Falkens are a good low cost AX tire and are sticky right out of the gate, but they get hot quick in continuous lapping. If DE's are your focus the Kuhmo's are probably a better choice. Good luck. Drive safe.

Check with your local PCA chapter to find a trusted Porsche repair/alignment shop in your area. This should get you started: http://www.pca.org/

Also list the mileage on your car, and miles since new tires to help narrow down possible causes. So far it sounds like loose/damaged suspension components to me.

No problem Gus,

Spending your first year on low cost tires and wheels is a good plan while really learning car control. You are going to explore your limits and shred some tires, not set record lap times. If I were running on 16's I would put on 225/50/16 all around for best grip and so I could rotate them front to back for even wear. Pick out a set of these sticky street tires or maybe some Falken Azenis and you are good to go: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/types/extremeperf.jsp

After you have spent a season on these you will have a much better idea of what tires you want next. Once you are driving really smooth consistent lines you may be ready for R comp. tires. Once you are running R comps you will also need to lower your car in order to get enough negative camber to use them effectively. Have fun. Drive safe.

If you think you will go with 245/17 R compound next year 8.5 x 17 wheels make sense now. I am running 8x17 fronts and 9x17 rear.

I have been searching online and I don't seem to find 8.5X17 that will actually have the bolt pattern I need and even less so the offset!

Any idea of websites/brands ?

What brand do you have now?

Thanks,

Gus

Here is a used set for sale. Maybe he still has them. http://boxcar-racing.com/forum/index.php?topic=618.0

Any good wheel/tire guy should be able to help you. Call em up and tell them what you are looking for.

Safety Note: This is a proven track setup for experienced drivers in the Boxster. It is not great for street use. The extra wide rubber up front can cause an increase in hydroplaning in the wet. My current setup is 225/17 front, 255/17 rear for street and track. Choose wisely.

Thanks,

I am just starting - had 2 DE events so far and one autocross, but I can see my new Conti2's (on 18's) are not taking the abuse well and they are expensive to replace. I intend to keep those for street (summer) use and get something for track exclusively - with the street use limited to driving home after the event.

Ideally, I would like to spend around 1.0 to 1.5k for the entire track setup - maybe starting with some high performance summers and than moving on to track dedicated tires.

Tirerack website is great, but it will actually only allow me to search for the factory sizes. Did you call the guys up to get the recommendations?

I should probably consider getting 8.5 wheels all around, with high performance 225/17 in the front and 255/17 in the rear to start and then move to the more agressive setup - 245's all around when I get the track tires...

What are your thoughts?

Do you currently have OEM wheels or you have 8.5s all around?

All the best,

Gus

If you think you will go with 245/17 R compound next year 8.5 x 17 wheels make sense now. I am running 8x17 fronts and 9x17 rear.

Running wheels with non-stock widths (such as 17x8.5 fronts) would knock you out of the stock class in SCCA and PCA autocross, wouldn't it? If you're new, you're probably not that concerned about it, but just thought it might bear consideration.

Check with your local rules first. In PCA Zone 8 wheels are free (no points). We take points for treadwear below 140 and Widths above 265

Yes. 245/17 on 17x8.5 wheels all around has the best grip and allows you to rotate tires front to back for more even wear. On wheel choices... how much do you want to spend?? Tirerack has some good choices and can help you with proper offset for best fit.

Safety Note: This is a proven track setup for experienced drivers in the Boxster. It is not great for street use. The extra wide rubber up front can cause an increase in hydroplaning in the wet. My current setup is 225/17 front, 255/17 rear for street and track. Choose wisely.

Kabel,

I think you are right. Sticking with PS2's all around will give the most consistent balance and handling. That is more important to me than ultimate grip right now. Changing to a stiffer rear sway would probably also help but it would cost too many points in my class. Trying to stay in street stock for the season.

Loose motor mount?? Bowling ball in the trunk? :P How many miles on the car?

Gus,

How fast do you want to go? 225/16's will certainly work and tire costs are a lot lower. 245/17's are by most accounts the ideal setup for hard core track hounds in a Boxster due to the larger contact patch, wide selection of good tires, and relatively low rotating mass.

Does anyone know if you do an engine transplant with an increase in displacement, and include the cats, O2 sensors etc. will it pass a smog inspection in California?

Insite did a brake upgrade on his 2.5 and I think it was a direct bolt on of 996 discs and calipers on the front. Brakes are one area I would not consider using ebay knock offs. :o Porsche OEM brakes are the best in the business.

Ok, it seems the consensus is to put fresh tires on the front to match the grip in the rear. The old PS2's are just fine on public roads but protest too much when driven hard around the track.

So now the $$ question: Do I put a new set of PS2's the same size 225/45/17, upsize to a PS2 245/40/17 or go with a little stickier tire like the Advan Neova in 225/45/17? Any thoughts? Front wheels are 17x8 so both sizes would fit.

Thanks for the response guys. Definitely more confident now. My brother and I do a little tag team on the track. Some areas I am faster, some he is faster. In the downhill off camber he just had a lot more grip and pulled away. He is on fresh RA-1 tires though. Now to get balanced again.

Now hold on there partner. Don't go changing out those O2 sensors yet. It is very likely that there is nothing wrong with them. Don't kill the messenger. They are just doing their job by reporting mixture problems upstream. All of your codes are common on a car with an intake vacuum leak.

Reinspect your intake and throttle body first. An intake vacuum leak is most likely since you just had it apart. Find the problem, fix it and reset your CEL and put 50 miles on the car to be sure it is fixed. It could also be a bad MAF, bad AOS bellows, low fuel pressure etc. Retrace your steps first.

Your car is running lean. Recheck all your fittings and connections related to the throttle body cleaning. Something may be loose, torn or broken causing a vacuum leak.

Topless,

i will check the hoses as you suggested, however the problem begin with P0430 which indicates for catalytic convertor or oxygen sensor. do you think they are related? thanks again.

Yes, it is very likely. When the mixture is not right the O2 sensors start squaking and throwing codes. They simply report all issues and problems upstream.