Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

doug_d (Cameron Park, CA)

Members
  • Posts

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Fields

  • From
    Cameron Park, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    98 Boxster

Recent Profile Visitors

591 profile views

doug_d (Cameron Park, CA)'s Achievements

Member

Member (1/1)

0

Reputation

  1. We were thinking that it rolled over 9999 :) I certainly don't know what -1 means, but it was fun to see that I've driven an average of 38.7 miles per operating hour!
  2. What a great day! It was great to meet new folks and to see some familiar faces. Thank you to David and Mary for hosting at your beautiful home, and for lunch. Thanks Loren, for the use of your PST. And thanks to everyone else too for making it a fun and friendly day. :)
  3. >>I will have my PST2 and PIWIS at the WOCD. That's awesome Loren. I'd really appreciate using it to reset my airbag light and would also like to explore the info that the PST2 exposes if there's time. (The airbag light was tripped by my mistake when swapping my race seat....not due to the buckle/ground issue.) I plan to arrive between 11 and 12 and will bring a couple of pizzas and some soda (David, please email me if this encroaches on other food plans...or I think you can even IM me at work :)).
  4. I don't have any projects planned for my own car (unless someone has a PST II ;) ), but hope to drop by to meet you all. My resume includes 10 years of keeping this beautiful beast on the road. :) Thanks, Doug
  5. Howdy, I've got a '98 Boxster that has a blinking temperature light. It used to be intermittant, but has been consistently coming on for the past few weeks. Regardless of temperature, it comes on when I start the car and stays on (blinking) until I turn the car off. I'm familiar with the four reasons for the light previously posted on this site, but I need help with some troubleshooting ideas and details. First, can you tell me how I can determine a "slow" flash from a "normal" flash? I think it's the slow flash just based on how it feels. :) I recently replaced the reservoir cap and the light stayed away for 11 starts across 3 days, then it came back and has been on since. I've burped the system, checked for reservoir leaks, ensured correct coolant level. I just had the thermostat replaced (in addition to the light, the temp was fluctuating from the right side of the 8 (normal) to the right side of the 0). I've wiggled the sensor connection at the reservoir tank. Other troubleshooting ideas? The float in the reservoir? (Is there one? Can I see it? ...) Loose connection at the instrument cluster? Engine compartment temp sensor (Where is it? How can I test it?) I don't yet have conclusive results on whether the thermostat replacement resolved the fluctuating coolant temp or not. The mechanic who replaced the thermostat checked the basics related to the light, but needs more time to diagnose. We agreed that I would drive it for a while to see if the temp was more normal before continuing to look for the reason for the blinking light. Thanks, Doug 1. Engine coolant level too low -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) 2. Engine compartment temperature too high -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty) 3. Engine coolant temperature too high -- light is lit; pointer on the right 4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty -- light flashes rapidly (1 Hz) ; pointer on the right
  6. when i started, i was planning to use one of 15 different types of pliers and clamps i had available. i bought the hose clamp pliers as was recommended to me and i can tell you now that i would have given up without them. it's easy enough to get the hose off, but getting the hose on was difficult and the pliers locking the clamp open made it easier.
  7. paolo and john, sorry but my son's birthday and tax deadline have gotten in the way of my write-up. here's some info. holler if you have other questions or desire a specific picture (i don't think any pictures can help too much if you've already looked from the top and thru the wheel well.) remember, i'm not an expert...rather, i barely knew what i was doing...just someone with a little patience and help from his internet friends. :D paolo - i did not remove the exhaust manifold. jonathan suggested removing the something pump which is simple to remove and gives you a little more room. it's 3 bolts and a hose clamp. it's just outboard and forward of the oil separator. john - fyi - i had no CEL. >>I undid the J-tube and it had oil in it. Is this normal? I thought >>it should only return fumes and perhaps a light mist back to the intake. i don't know. i don't think so. does you exhaust have a burning oil smell? i performed my replacement like this: 1) cleaned the area as much as possible 2) remove top vent tube - straight forward 3) from the top, remove lower vent tube (mounted in the middle, pointing out). i had trouble releasing the clamp because i couldn't get my fat fingers under the hose to squeeze it. you can try rotating the clamp so you squeeze on the sides, or, i used two long, small flat screwdrivers to gently expand the clamp (opposite of squeezing two sides of the clamp, i expanded the other two sides). either way, it's a tight area to work in. 4) thru the wheel well (jack stands!) i removed the lower clamp on the accordian tube. actually, i raised it about 1/2 an inch and that was enough. since the tube was already torn, this was enough for me to easily pull the oil separator off. 5) thru the wheel well, remove the two bolts. 6) from the top, remove the oil separator. 7) carefully clean the area. 8) since the accordian tube was the most difficult part of installation, i mounted that first. i used hose clamp pliers to hold the clamp open. it was really difficult to do thru the wheel well, but i don't think it would be any easier from above. jonathan also suggested replacing the pressure clamp with a screw-type clamp. that may make it easier. 9) replace the bolts 10) replace the lower vent tube and the top vent tube. since i had a lot of oil in the system, after replacing the oil separator, i had to run the car for 10 to 15 minutes before the smoke subsided. i was uneasy doing it since there was a lot of smoke, but was told that if there's no CEL and the car was otherwise running fine, to just run it.
  8. i am soooooooo very happy to report that it looks like the oil separator was the problem and that it appears to be fixed. the part is plastic and i can't really see how it can "fail" but the rubber accordian hose connecting the plastic part to the block had a tear in it (probably a $2 part and probably not available separately). thanks to peter, mrmickeymouse, marc and jonathan for giving me the advice needed to complete the repair. i've got pictures and will provide a brief write-up sometime. fyi, i completed replacing the oil separator and was amazed (and embarrassed) at the quantity of smoke that the car produced still. it took about 15 minutes for most of the oil in the system to burn off. i was very nervous about running the car for so long, but it was running well with no CEL, so i kept driving.
  9. thanks scott. frankly, i didn't "diagnose" the problem...i was just taking an inexpensive shot at fixing it as i know that the oil separator is a common problem. turns out the accordian tube/hose at the bottom was torn. i did not and still do not have a CEL. the upper vent hose had many drops of oil in it and where it connects near the throttle body is wet with oil. oil separator and top vent hose have been replaced. i've triple checked everything. oil level is fine. no extra parts laying around. :-) i started the car. what should i expect as far as smoke goes? i was expecting that there will be some smoke until the oil already in the system burns off. slowly decreasing. i ran (idled) the car for about 1 minute and the smoke continued. it diminished to almost nothing. then i rev'd the car and smoke started coming out again. it never smoked as much as it did initially. what do you think, should i run the car longer? (total run time post repair is ~90 secs) are the other items to check when the car is running or not. can anyone provide detail on the presence or absence of vacuum with the oil filler cap or dipstick? thanks again
  10. my dealer says he can do it without removing the bumper, but i had to. even having replaced the horns once, i'd probably remove the cover the next time too. it's easy, just time consuming.
  11. don't let this worry you, but i'm not even sure what the tb is. :eek: metal part about the center of the engine with a (throttle?) cable going to it?? the upper vent hose does have oil in it, so i assume the tb does too. are you asking to verify the oil separator diagnosis? or other things for me to check? thanks
  12. howdy, my '98 w/ 72k miles started bellowing smoke the other day. figured i'd change the oil separator and see what happens. i got 996-107-023-03 (vertical style oil sep) and 996-107-145-06 (upper "J" vent tube). the engine cover is off and passenger side tire removed. i've got the two bolts loose and can see all of the connections. i've taken some pics to share when i'm done. am i ready? just remove and replace? any tips? order of removal? looking at the lower section of the oil separator that plugs into the crankcase, i wonder if i should i drain the oil? i think it's not necessary, but would rather avoid a mess. thanks, doug
  13. thanks all. after reading thru the info here and after a lot of nervous thought, it was fairly straight forward. i'm back in the top-down business! doug
  14. thank you marco (and mark and jeff)...and crap, crap, crap!!! i had quickly reviewed everything in this forum the other day but read right over your perfectly applicable discussion because i didn't have this problem at the time. i can't believe i was 30 seconds from being done with my little repair (just connecting the stupid connector before testing the top), but now i've got an opportunity to learn more than i wanted to know about synchronizing the top.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.