jklaspok

I reopened this thread to add my experience and outcome. Like many, the P1509 fault occurred after disconnecting the battery for other work. I went through the same t-shooting steps i.e., disconnected the MAF, removed and cleaned the throttle body, performed the throttle adaptation adjustment, removed the DME for 24 hours, etc. I found in another thread if disconnecting the MAF took it out of limp mode, then the MAF was bad. With that advice I purchased another MAF only to find the fault continued. Like many, I was able to get it out of limp mode by clearing the code with my code reader while the car was running. Only to have the code return during the next start. I finally made the decision to purchase the throttle body. Afterall as Loren continues to point out in this thread: Clean the connectors, check the wiring for damage - clear the code and see if it comes back. If it does, you will likely need a new throttle jacking unit. When I received the new throttle body, I compared it with the old unit. I could tell immediately the butterfly valve was slower to return on the old unit. That seems to fit the descripton of the code: Throttle Jacking Unit, Spring Test – Above Limit. I installed the new throttle body and first performed the adaptation calibration. With the old unit, I could hear the butterfly valve open and close once immediately after turning on the ignition. I'm certain that is to test the throttle response. With the new unit, I could here the valve cycle immediately, and then 30 - 40 seconds in to the adaptation calibration. I suspect after the DME received the delayed pulse from the old unit, it immediately generated the P1509 code. After replacement of the throttle body, the car (roughly at 100k miles) has run flawlessly. In fact, the throttle response has slightly improved. One question I do have for all this misery: Why did Porsche program the DME to basically shut down the car for the P1502 condition? I can understand generating a check engine condition, but to render the car basically useless seems a bit overkill; and can ruin your day if you are driving it miles from home.

I did contact Becker Autosound in New Jersey and they were able to provide me the code, at a price of course. Thanks for your efforts!

The method mentioned in the link is what I used to get that serial number. I confirmed X5029187 is the correct number. Any suggestions with how I can acquire the code? Will I need to go to the manufacturer? Thanks

Like many, my battery change got me here. The type is a BE4462 serial #: X5029187 Thanks for your help!