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1998 Boxster (986) Hi, I've read through quite a few posts related to the top stopping working and wondered if someone could point me in the right direction for my particular failed top issue? Symptoms are that it was working one moment, and when I tried about an hour later to put the top down - the windows go down when I unlatch the roof and when I press the roof button I hear a click from behind me but nothing else. The roof light remains lit. Is this more likely to be fuses, 2nd micro switch, motor or something else? Many thanks.
I've noticed that my external temp display is reading about 20 degrees (F) above what the actual temp is outside - has anyone else had this issue? Is it just a case of replacing the sensor or is there something more sinister going on? Thanks, Bob
This added info makes a little more sense. The canvas portion of the top will operate with just one of the pushrods/plastic ball cups intact and attached, but one side will lag behind on the way up and lurch forward on the way down. The red plastic ball cups are more prone to getting brittle with age, so in your case it may just have been a question of time and use causing the failure. I would say it is likely that the second set of ball cups broke apart because the overall length of the pushrods was too short. If you still have your old original pushrods, you should inspect them as you may be able to see tell-tale marks on the threaded part of the pushrod where the original red plastic ball cups were originally situated. If that is the case, count the number of threads from the tell-tale mark to the end of the threaded portion of the original pushrod and duplicate it by turning the new ball cups onto your new pushrods to the same "depth". One word of caution. If you were operating the top with one of the pushrods broken, it is very likely that the dangling pushrod ripped or tore your foam drain tray. In that case, you are susceptible to getting water intrusion into the cabin when it rains or you are washing the car. The water will inevitably end up finding its way to your central alarm control unit under the driver's seat and that will be a big $ repair which may also leave you stranded. Pull up the carpet behind the seats, where it meets the carpet at the base of the rear firewall to inspect for any moisture. That foam padding can absorb A LOT of water. You can repair the drain tray with black urethane sealant (Permatex makes a good one for that purpose) or replace the drain tray if it is beyond repair. Regards, Maurice. Many thanks - you were right about the foam being ripped - I'll get some sealant on it asap!
You didn't give any details as to how they broke the first time, and whether the ones that broke the first time were red or white plastic ball cups. That might provide more insight into the cause. From your description of how they broke the second time, it's possible that the length of the front pushrods (the ones that terminate in the plastic ball cups) may be adjusted to an overall length that is too short. Note that the overall length of those pushrods also affects how the leading edge of the top mates up with the horizontal top edge of the windshield frame, but that it is not a linear progression. Your length may be on the "wrong side" of that non-linear progression. Regards, Maurice. The first time, one side made a snapping noise as I was closing the roof - I then noticed that the roof went up at an angle, but did nothing about it at the time. Then the other one went after about a month. They were the red caps. When I put the new ones on I did notice that I couldn't fasten the roof, but it was getting dark so I figured I'd finish it the next day - I'm guessing as the lip of the roof didn't meet that I didn't have the push rods extended enough - didn't realize that could snap them again though.
Same thing happened to me on my 1998 986 2.5 I bought new push rods from Porsche (whole assembly) and fitted them - they immediately broke again - happened when I opened the rood fully just as the clamshell was almost shut then snap! I've ordered just the plastic bits from ebay, but wondered if I've got a bigger problem? I had the top replaced a couple of years ago with a top with the glass window - would this have anything to do with it? Many thanks
Thanks guys - don't suppose there's any info/photos on how to get to the belt?
1998 Boxster (986) - 118,000 miles Started car this evening and that was my first mistake! Battery and ABS lights stayed on and steering was immediately heavy Drove off, after a while I noticed that stopped at a traffic light the engine was idling much higher than normal Further down the road the oil temp gauge went all the way to the right and the gauge red light came on I stopped, and couldn't restart the engine. These seem like a lot of weird things to be happening at the same time?? Any ideas - I'm getting it towed to the dealer tomorrow, but if it's something simple then ...? |Many thanks, Bob
I have the same issue i.e. elephant noise (although I think it's more like a moose!) I'm ok with not doing anything until it fails completely, but just wanted to make sure that that won't cause damage elsewhere e.g. can this cause the ring gear to come off? Thanks, Bob
Anybody know what Sunset would charge for a water pump? I'm assuming this is a big job? Are there instructions anywhere on this? How many hours Porsche labour do you think it would be? Thanks, Bob
My 1998 Boxster (986) has a problem or problems that I'm trying to get a handle on before I take it in this Saturday to the Porsche garage in Exeter. Heard a squeaky/whiney kind of noise coming from the engine area - then the coolant light started flashing. Coolant was very low, so I topped up with 50% mix - light went off (I've never had to do this before). Checked out with Durametric and had no fault codes. Still have whining noise, and also I'm now smelling a burning kind of odour coming from, it seems, the right hand side of the car. Don't know if the coolant issue and the whining issue are linked or coincidental (I don't normally believe in coincidence!) I have 107,000 miles on it. Any ideas guys? Thanks! Bob
See the link from the DVLA below: http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/Buyin...ates/DG_4022573 And also: http://www.dvla.gov.uk/vehicles/number_pla...tion_marks.aspx Basically, you are allowed a standard plate, a large plate or a 4x4 plate - however, if your car is an import and is physically restricted in being able to mount one of these 3 options, then as long as you adher to the letter size and spacing you can get a plate made to fit.
Good question about the insurance, however I think it might be hard to find a US insurer that would cover the UK - maybe I'm wrong about that. However, if the import is classified as a temporary import then different rules apply - see this post: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...sult_type=posts As far as the shipping goes I gave them a key - I think they must have disconnected the battery as I had to input my radio code again.
IMPORTING A PORSCHE BOXSTER (986) FROM THE US INTO THE UK After all the help I received on the RennTech forum that helped me to get my 986 imported from the US into the UK, I figured the least I could do would be to compile an account of the process and experience, so here goes… The shipping process This was very straightforward once my wife had performed extensive research with the BBB and other online forums dedicated to shipping overseas – we finally picked Southern Winds International (www.SouthernWindsInternational.com). They delivered a 40ft container to our house in Michigan, packed up our house, and then loaded the Boxster in last (need to have a very small amount of gas in the tank – enough to get on and off the container and any inspections that may be necessary). I would personally not trust RORO (Roll On Roll Off) shipping - I have vivid images of my pride and joy floating in the Atlantic! As far as paperwork goes, I just needed to send them my clear title and they processed it through US Customs and returned it to me. I sent a completed UK form C104A to the receiving agent on the UK side who processed it through UK Customs (now HMRC). Note: I found that using a ‘Print to PDF’ utility was very useful for completing forms and then emailing them to whomever needed them. Note: You must have lived in the US for at least 12 months, AND owned the vehicle for at least 6 months in the US, and be able to prove both facts – otherwise you will pay 17.5% of the vehicle’s value in tax, and another 10% in import duty! At the port of entry into the UK, customs may choose to inspect your shipment/vehicle and/or X-ray it (which will cost extra) – luckily that was not the case for me, and the container was delivered to my garage in Exeter (UK) a week or so after arrival at port – the whole shipping process took approximately 6 weeks door to door. You will receive a form C & E 388 from HMRC which you will need to keep for the registration process. Technical Changes to The Porsche Boxster (986) My 986 was manufactured in Finland in 1998, but for US export – hence the following changes (all lighting related) were necessary: Headlights – I purchased a pair from www.ebay.co.uk for 50 pounds (approx. $100 at time of writing) – see the owner’s manual for instructions on removal of the headlamp unit (very straightforward). Note: If your headlights are Litronic then you will need to have either self-levelling headlights or suspension, and washers for the headlights – if you do not you will not pass the SVA test (more later). Also, you have to actually replace the headlights – stick on reflectors will not cut it. Rear Fog Lights – in the US, the driver’s side (Left) has the rear fog light wired in, although there is a wire going to the right hand side, it is not powered. In the UK, either the driver’s side (Right) or both rear fog lights must be working. I followed the instructions at Rear Fog Lights. Side Marker Lights – in the US these are just that side markers, but in the UK they need to be indicator repeaters – I missed this and failed my SVA test the first time around. Subsequently I followed these instructions: Side Marker Lights. I tried the crimp style butt splices and shrink tubing, but found that soldering the splices and wrapping with electrical tape seemed more solid a connection. In addition, on the passenger side of the car I found I needed a pigtail as the wires were so tight in that area. Note: For later model (987) Boxsters, I believe that there is a setting in the DME to change the function of the marker lights to indicator repeaters. Legal Requirements for driving a vehicle in the UK Disclaimer: This is what I believe to be true at the time of writing, and I cannot claim any responsibility if anything here is incorrect. Also, I don’t profess to any professional legal knowledge. You need the following (detail to follow): - Insurance - MOT Certificate (an MOT test pass) - Minister’s Approval (an SVA test pass) - Vehicle Registration - Car Tax - And to actually drive you need a driver’s license! Insurance There is a ‘Chicken and Egg’ or ‘Horse and Cart’ (which ever analogy cranks your handle!) scenario in regard to getting insurance for an imported vehicle. Basically, you need a vehicle registration normally in order to get insurance, but you can’t get a registration without passing the MOT and SVA tests, both of which normally necessitate you driving the vehicle in the first place! There is a get-out – you can get insurance on just a VIN, but most insurers will only provide this ‘cover note’ for 10 days (not enough time to get the tests and registration done. I managed to find an insurer who would give me 20 days coverage which was just enough time. I went through MCE Insurance (www.mceinsurance.com) who are insurance brokers – they got me a policy through Norwich Union. Note: There are 2 main types of insurance you can get: 3rd Party Fire & Theft, and Comprehensive – The former gives the minimum coverage, the latter more complete coverage. Note: In the UK, insurance gets cheaper the longer you go without making a claim (the no-claims bonus) – most UK insurers will not except foreign no-claims, but I managed to get my 7 years transferred to the UK through MCE. MOT (Ministry Of Transport) Certificate This is the basic roadworthiness test that gets done annually for all cars over 3 years old. Note: You can do the MOT after the SVA test, but it is wise to do the MOT first, as any problems can be identified early on and fixed before the SVA – the MOT costs 50 pounds, whereas the SVA costs 158 pounds (retest is 32 pounds – I needed it!). Note: You are allowed to drive to and from an MOT (or SVA) test appointment (as long as you take proof of the appointment with you) without having a valid UK registration. You may get stopped by the police (I didn’t), but I printed off this info from the DVLA website just in case (www.dvla.gov.uk). SVA (Single Vehicle Approval) Test First you need to determine where your nearest VOSA test station is located: http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Dl1/Directorie...tacts/DG_069669 Next you need to complete and mail the SVA application with proof that you have lived in the US for more than 12 months, proof that you have owned the vehicle for more than 6 months, and payment to the DVLA in Swansea: http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosacorp/repository...%20Dec%2007.pdf Your local SVA office will contact you to set up an appointment. Assuming you pass the test, a Minister’s Approval Certificate will be issued to you. Vehicle Registration First find out where your local DVLA office is located: http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Dl1/Directorie...cts/DG_10012974 Next, complete form V55/5 and take it along with the following to the DVLA office (you can mail it, but I preferred to be safe): http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/Buyin...icle/DG_4022583 It will cost you 50 pounds for an initial registration along with 180 pounds for car tax (vehicle excise duty) which you pay annually. Eventually you will get a notice of what your registration number is in the mail (the actual registration document arrives a bit later). When you have your plate number, you can then get plates made up – until quite recently anyone could knock out a plate, but now only an authorized dealer can do this: http://www.dvla.gov.uk/vehicles/search.aspx?ext=dg I originally went to Halfords (a High Street motoring store in pretty much every UK town) and got plates in under 20 minutes. I had to get a mount for the front bumper as I only used to have a plate on the rear in the US – the local Porsche dealership sold me the plate mounting hardware for 5 pounds (cheapest Porsche part I’ve ever gotten!). One problem – a UK plate is very large! It would not fit between the bumperettes. I tried removing the bumperettes, but these ugly metal brackets protrude from the bumper. So, I got a rear plate made to US size (12x6 inches) at www.craigsplates.com. Also see this posting: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p;hl=bumperette Car Tax Your Car Tax sticker is sent with your registration notice. (I also picked up a magnetic tax disc holder at Halfords for 2.99 pounds.) Driver’s License You can drive on your US Driver’s License for up to 1 year from entry into the UK – you must pass the UK driver’s test (written and practical) before that year is up, or you will have to get a provisional UK license and wear attractive ‘L’ plates on your car, and have someone else in the car who holds a full UK license and is over 21 - until you pass. Note: This test is not easy – people who have been happily driving in the US for a LONG time have failed multiple attempts at a UK driving test. As I already held a UK driver’s license this doesn’t apply to me, although I did need to surrender my ‘poster’ sized paper driver’s license for the new ugly pink photo cards. So, I am finally driving around fully legal in the UK – I did download all the UK speed camera locations onto my TomTom, and I am using a radar detector as backup (they are currently still legal to use in the UK as far as I know). Hope this write up can be of use – feel free to contact me with any questions or corrections! Cheers, Bob