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moosey

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Everything posted by moosey

  1. JFP, donhabe the torque specs for the following bolts: Upper Pulley Tensioner Pulley Lower Pulley i can't find the smooth bolt or rod to insert in engine case when removing crank pulley. I'm trying to find the locking pin the pic you posted. I'm not sure there is room to insert that pin with the round ball at the end but do you think if I end up finding one I could just cut off the round ball off at the end and that should do it. Or maybe depending on length of that locking pin maybe it will work as is?
  2. JFP, I tries searching for TSBS on the removal of the crank an cannot find any. Is there anyway you send me link for one if you know of any. My questions are once I get the tool , I insert it into the hole in location according to the pic above. I just looked and it does not seem to align at it current position for me to insert anything in. Is there a way to move the crank pulley or do I need to start car with belt on to see if I can get it aligned for the bolt? Once I do get that bolt in I use breaker bar to remove 24mm crank bolt , then wiggle out old crank pulley, put new one on and at that point do I need to re-insert the PIN to bolt back the pulley on ?? Thanks
  3. Thanks Loren! So I understand the upper and lower deflection pulley have same part number as they look identical with exception to bolt size ? Can I get the part number for the Tensioner Pulley. Also do you know what tool i need to purchase that holds the crankshaft pulley in place when removing it. The one I read when you have to insert into one of the holes into engine case? I'll try and see if there are any tsbs on it .
  4. Thanks Loren ! I was given wrong one from dealer. I'm going to replace the Lower pulley and crankshaft pulley too if you have time to get those that would be much appreciated. I'm going to donate soon.
  5. Thanks did the upper roller get updated part number from 996.102.119.58 to 997.102.118.00. i was given a plastic one that didn't look metal seen in pic below. I need to also replace the lower and tensioner which look to all. E the same pulley and same part. The plastic one does not look strong so just wanted to make sure it is okay on 08 cayman S Tip. original roller on left metal and new dealer given plastic on right
  6. JFP is that +90 mean another like 4-6 turns on the wrench? Thanks
  7. JFP it ended up being a combination of my cat going bad and upper pulley completely destroyed and bouncing all over the place. Sound gone onnce parts were installed. However after putting the belt on noticed the tensioner pulley , lower pulley and crankshaft pulley all started to wobble slightly and faintly began to lightly whisper the Sam noise telling me they all need to also be replace . Can't I have the torque specs for the Crankshaft bolt. Thanks!
  8. The 6 manifold hexagon bolts. Thanks as always!
  9. Hey JFP when I remove the cat does the battery need to be disconnected for 02 sensor? And the manifold bolts do you have to torque specs? Thanks again!
  10. 2008 Cayman S with 75k. No CEL car drives perfect. Sometimes at highway speed I smell rotten eggs or sulfur smell inside car. This rattle noise only comes from driverside and is only on at idle and goes away when driven at speed and then comes back at idle at stop light. It seems to be coming from the exhaust manifold/ cat. Can anyone confirm by listening or had similar sounds . This rattle sound went away a couple months now is back and pretty persistent during initial start up and remains again only at idle. IMG_6059.MOV
  11. Car was fine just started it up and all this noise. There are no check engine lights at all . It also makes sewing machine noise when gas pedal is depressed. If anyone can listen and tell that be great. IMG_4518.mov
  12. I have an 2008 Cayman S both cats need to be replaced . Epa website says 8 years or 80k miles. Called Porsche dealer and they said it's not the year of manufacture but the in service date? My I. Service date is 11/07 for 2008 model year . Which is correct? I thought the cats wild just be by model year which mine would be 2008 and would still be covered.
  13. I have 2008 Cayman S, tip with no sport chrono. Can I just bolt new PSE without any electronics to have it loud all the time???
  14. You might be surprised, AAA were one of the first to train their drivers on how to correctly use the OEM tow hooks to flat bed Porsches without damaging them. Call your AAA rep and ask them about your battery concerns.
  15. 2011 Cayenne S battery completely dead! cannot get car into neutral to have it towed to dealer. Anyway to replace the battery under driver seat? Can anyone advise steps and tools needed. I have AAA but don't think they would know how to get to battery. Thanks
  16. Awesome will call them tomorrow ! Thanks as always JFP!!!
  17. The factory caliper bolt should be a M12X1.5X72. JFP,cant find correct size for the length of thread needed for the insert. I think I measured the thread needed for insert to be 36.83mm that's the length measured when the caliper bolt is all the way in the caliper bolt hole itself. I under stand that the diameter is 12 and pitch is 1.5 but now I cant seem to find correct size insert, biggest ive seen is 30mm. The poster on rennlist was back from 2008 and said he found exact size but did not specify.
  18. The factory caliper bolt should be a M12X1.5X72. Thanks JFP, there are many kits out there. would you happen to know of one with exact dimension in insert? Where should go to purchase? A Porsche owner on rennlist said he found a kit with exact match but did not state where he purchased The Time Sert or Helicoil repair kit has to match the thickness of the area on the carrier where the caliper bolts to it, as well as the fastener itself. Companies like Fastenal that specialize is fasteners should be able to help you, or if you have the kit number the Rennlist poster used, you could probably find it cheaper (and perhaps faster) online, as even Amazon sells them. You can also look here: http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html Thanks JFP, I see there is a Porsche /VW kit but not size M12x1.5x72. I will keep looking but if you happen to find kit number for caliper bolt please post. Thanks!!!!
  19. The factory caliper bolt should be a M12X1.5X72. Thanks JFP, there are many kits out there. would you happen to know of one with exact dimension in insert? Where should go to purchase? A Porsche owner on rennlist said he found a kit with exact match but did not state where he purchased
  20. Does anyone one what time cert kit is needed to repair a stripped wheel carrier hub, Was removing caliper bolt on front driver side and when bolt came out so did a good size coil of aluminum thread from hub.
  21. Thanks all . Did Front and rear brakes and I must say the rears are a piece of cake. No worries on E-Brake. Just had the Cayenne in park with E brake off. The rotors came of without any problems. The fronts are what gave me a bit of problem. Calipers came off without any problems but had difficulty trying to fond where the brake line could be loosen like on 996 cars to give more room to install pads. By the for the poster who had to pay around $1100 for rear brakes, for that price I get front and rear brakes all OEM. Thanks to the members of this great board for all your help and advice!
  22. JFP, been doing some research and read on another board that when doing the rear brakes you just have to make sure the electronic parking brake is off along with air suspension, no need to calibrating or dealer tester. Also would you happen to know the torque specs for front and rear caliper bolts and rotor bolts? Any suggestions on how to push the brake pistons back in order to pull caliper off rotor? Asking because the front and rear caliper have the new brembo C caliper design. Depends upon the mileage and how the vehicle has been used, The electric e-brake shoes sit fairly close to the drum area inside the rear rotors when in the "off" position; if there is any lip on the edge of the e-brake drum, either from wear or just simple corrosion, you will not be able to pull the rotors off without tearing up the e-brake shoes. When that happens, the e-brake has to be put in the "service position", which retracts the drum shoes to allow the rotor to be removed. After the rotor is reinstalled, the e-brake then has to be 're-calibrated" to put the shoes back in the correct position near the drum surface. The rear caliper bolts are another "conundrum". When Porsche first went to this caliper design, there were no published torque specs, but as the same brakes appear on VW Touareg models, most shops simply used the VW information; however that has also proven confusing. VW listed the rear caliper bolts as "single use, torque to yield" type, torqued to 110 Ft. lb. + 90 degrees. But when we tried to buy new bolts (used on Porsche, Audi, and VW models), we found none of the local dealers either carried them in stock, or had ever ordered them, which means they had never replaced them. The front caliper bolts are torqued to 200 ft. lb., and the disc to hub screws are 10.5 ft. lb. The preferred pad retraction tool is the Lisle 25750: Thanks JFP, I have 20K miles on 2011 CS F/R pads are completely worn down but no brake pad wear light has come on yet. So if I understand right if they rear shoes are not worn and the car in in park with e brake off the rotors should come off easily? I read here a member said to make sure to have the car in neutral any reason for that? Thanks again! If there is no internal lip on the E-brake drum, it should come right off. I have no idea why you would need to put the car in neutral, as the car is basically electronically dead when it is not running and up on the lift when doing this. Perhaps you should address your question to that poster. yep did that, thanks for everything!
  23. JFP, been doing some research and read on another board that when doing the rear brakes you just have to make sure the electronic parking brake is off along with air suspension, no need to calibrating or dealer tester. Also would you happen to know the torque specs for front and rear caliper bolts and rotor bolts? Any suggestions on how to push the brake pistons back in order to pull caliper off rotor? Asking because the front and rear caliper have the new brembo C caliper design. Depends upon the mileage and how the vehicle has been used, The electric e-brake shoes sit fairly close to the drum area inside the rear rotors when in the "off" position; if there is any lip on the edge of the e-brake drum, either from wear or just simple corrosion, you will not be able to pull the rotors off without tearing up the e-brake shoes. When that happens, the e-brake has to be put in the "service position", which retracts the drum shoes to allow the rotor to be removed. After the rotor is reinstalled, the e-brake then has to be 're-calibrated" to put the shoes back in the correct position near the drum surface. The rear caliper bolts are another "conundrum". When Porsche first went to this caliper design, there were no published torque specs, but as the same brakes appear on VW Touareg models, most shops simply used the VW information; however that has also proven confusing. VW listed the rear caliper bolts as "single use, torque to yield" type, torqued to 110 Ft. lb. + 90 degrees. But when we tried to buy new bolts (used on Porsche, Audi, and VW models), we found none of the local dealers either carried them in stock, or had ever ordered them, which means they had never replaced them. The front caliper bolts are torqued to 200 ft. lb., and the disc to hub screws are 10.5 ft. lb. The preferred pad retraction tool is the Lisle 25750: Thanks JFP, I have 20K miles on 2011 CS F/R pads are completely worn down but no brake pad wear light has come on yet. So if I understand right if they rear shoes are not worn and the car in in park with e brake off the rotors should come off easily? I read here a member said to make sure to have the car in neutral any reason for that? Thanks again!
  24. Any pics for safe jacking points for 2011 CS. Only see ones for tire jack and not floor jack. Pics would be great if anyone can post them here for model 2011+ front and rear. Thanks
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