geoffbaltz

@JFP in PA Thanks for the response.  I'll double check the voltage on terminal 6 but it looks like I will be searching for buddy with a PIWIS.

So, these error codes would represent the need to program the ABS control module?  And I am correct that is what is going on here?

2002 Boxster S I’ve been building for the track. Previous owner swapped the ECU and the immobilizer from another car with a matching key.  Engine starts no problem. So the new ECU and alarm is working just fine. However, I have codes for ABS and PSM.  Fuse E9 is good. Does anyone know where the relay is that the Porsche repair manual mentions in troubleshooting the error codes?

ABS/PSM 5.7 Error Codes:

P4276 Valve supply voltage

Instrument Cluster K21 Error Code:

9111 PSM/ABS control unit

I’ve been doing a lot of research on the web about new ABS control modules. And them needing to be programmed to the ECU to match the VIN. Is this correct? And if so, can that be done within the Durametric?

You can disconnect the airbag with no problems.  Just a modular connector.  The airbag warning light will be on as well at the idiot "!" light.  I did the same thing in my track car.

Beltronics, Escort, Valentine are all quality and detect radar/laser comparably. I have a Beltronics but Valentine holds patent on the arrow thing and that is really nice.

Definitely a temp fix. I have a DE this weekend and thought I could get it done tomorrow before I leave Friday. It started at Mid-Ohio a couple of months back and I should have replaced the tank between then and now. Been busy with kids, work, life, etc. So, do I just leave it for the weekend or play with some JB Weld or 2 part epoxy?

maniac

I got the entire setup from Dave Lindsey at Lindsey Racing. You have to ask for the sprung clutch as you have to use the solid one with the standard flywheel.

I would never go to this setup for the street. There really isn't any reason to do it. The noise from the gear box sucks and the engagement with the clutch and the lwfw is not an easy thing to get used to and I would never want to drive around town with this setup.

For the track, I know I'll like it alot. I've had a chance to put about 200 miles on the car after the install on some nice roads. I definitely feel a difference in power and the motor does seem to spin up a bit quicker. I had a strange noise under heavy load in 1st and 2nd gear and a bit of a shudder initially but that has gone away. If you read earlier, I was almost freaking out about it. It was probably the clutch plate working into the new flywheel surface and I was getting used to the engagement. I should have listened to Orient Express and not worried about it. We have our first DE of the season this weekend so it's going to get a workout Saturday and Sunday.

-Geoff

Jackstands. You will need a transmission jack and you will need to get the rear of the car pretty high off the ground.

I put the front tires on ramps and then jack up the rear so the incline is minimal.

Ok, I did notice something. I just put the rear of the car on ramps.

I then supported the motor to pull one of the mounts to look at it. I noticed that there is no play/travel in the motor when putting the jack under it.

I SWEAR that there was always a few inches of play before the motor started to lift the car.

Thanks for the info. I am fine with the shudder if it's normal. I only track the car so I don't have to live with it in traffic.

It just seems a bit excessive compared to other cars I've driven. One of which is a Cayman S Turbo (yes, a turbo from TPC) with the same flywheel and a different clutch. Engagement is smooth and there is no shudder.

OK, so maybe I am crazy. How about some answers to the motor mount questions.....

So I can sleep at night and prove that I'm crazy, I may just replace them anyway.

Take off will be a bit more difficult with a LWFW. Less mass means you will need more revs and a little practice to get smooth starts - just like race cars.

Loren,

I totally agree and I do have some experience with this type of setup. Hopefully I'm paranoid but I think I may have a problem. Do the motor mounts always leak when bad? And how stiff are they supposed to be? Can you move the bolt around with your hands when removed?

Hello everyone. Hope you're all doing well.

I finally did the clutch and flywheel replacement. I went with the AASCO LWFW and the Spec Stage 1 Clutch with Spring Center.

I'm glad I did it since the old clutch was down to the rivots on the flywheel side. I also left the RMS alone as it was nice and clean in there and I'm a firm believer in the "if it works don't f%#* with it" theory.

The job itself was pretty easy as a clutch and flywheel job goes. I've done several on 944's and the 996 is a piece of cake.

I'm a bit concerned as I have a moderate shudder when starting in 1st gear and down shifting under load. I'm also getting a noticeable vibration/noise under 75% load in 1st and 2nd gear. I know it's not the noise from going to new flywheel as I was prepared for that (for all the people that ask if you can really hear the chatter when using a LWFW, yes, you can hear it). I think I may have bad motor mounts and now that the clutch hooks up stronger, the worn mounts are showing. I've been under the car and double checked everything and there is no evidence of missing anything on the clutch/flywheel job. I always torque everything to spec and mark every bolt on reassembly.

The mounts aren't leaking but I don't think that is always the case. I removed the driver's side mount and looked at it and it does have a date stamp of '99 on it so they are probably original. The car is a 2000 C2 w/74K miles on the clock.

Any thoughts or help?

Maurice,

Thanks for the info and I'll check out the RMS updates.

James,

I did find that site after I posted. I does look pretty straight forward.

What I find interesting is that my car has 73K miles on it, the RMS is original and there is no leaking (and not just by looking at the floor, I've been under the car many times), and the clutch is original. Do I even mess with the seal, the IMS bolts and the crankcase bolts?

I do have a testy synchro when downshifting to 2nd gear on the track. Maybe I should mess with that instead?

Does the noise change with the car's speed or engine speed?

Wheel bearing?

I'm thinking of doing it myself to save the $$$. I have the repair manuals and it seems pretty easy. I cant seem to find a step by step online either.

I don't have the special engine support tool and no lift. I have done clutches, flywheels, and transaxle swaps in 944s but not on any 996s.

Am I getting into a nightmare and is it worth it to have the dealer do it? How much should it cost with no parts?

Replacing OE with SPEC stage 1 clutch kit and lightweight aluminum flywheel (track only car).

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

00 996 C2

I believe the PSS9/10 lowers the car a minimum of 1". Which means you can't go stock ride height.

I have 19"s (8s and 11s) on my 2000 C2 with H&R sport lowering springs and I have no rub. I don't think you'll have a problem with rubbing at just 1" of lowering.

We are not talking about the Boxster. Yes, your comments are correct about the Boxster.

I don't believe my comments were off topic. Lightfall opened the door about buying a 911 at the current stage in his life and if it was a smart thing for him to do. It soon became more than him not being sure about the reliability of the engine in the 996.

I was just trying to give the young lad some advice. It's OK, I was young and stupid at one time in my life too! (No offense lightfall :-))

"If I knew then what I know now."............You don't get it - I wasn't telling him to buy a Japanese mid-sized sedan.

Lightfall - Go for it! Finance the used 996 over 7 years and cross your fingers that the thing doesn't have any problems and you can afford a $1200 water pump replacement, a $2500 clutch job, $1500 AC compressor, $200 oil changes, etc, etc. Isn't that what being a young American in the new millenium is all about?

Cheers.

It sounds like the time may not be right for you to take the plunge. You're young, get a plan and set some goals and eventually you'll reach success.

When I first got my 996, I hated the comments that some people would make. "You make too much money" "You charge us too much" "Must be nice" "I wish I could afford such a nice car"

People still make them. But it wasn't until my father told me something that made me not care about the comments any more: "What do they know? It's not a symbol of making too much money or being rich, it's a symbol of success and the people that understand that have respect, not envy."

So, go buy the Accord, save your money and get on the road to success.

-g

"It's not just the cars, it's the people!" This is so very true.

Our events are great whether you like driving your car, cleaning your car, working on your car, or just showing up for happy hour in your car to talk about your car.

Best $42 bucks I spend every year.

If you really want to get the most out of your membership, as with any organization - GET INVOLVED. You will be welcomed with open arms in any region and will soon be wondering why you didn't join earlier.

My 2 cents.

You are #4.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...923&hl=horn

Now I feel special. Thanks for the link! I'm going to check the wire asap.

My horn works without the key in the ignition. When the car is running, no horn. Is this a bad ignition switch? If so, what is the replacement route for the Audi switch I've heard about?

2000 996 C2

Thanks.

That's what I thought. Thanks for the info Loren.

I am asking because a 22 year-old fresh college grad in her brand new Jeep backed into my car Monday while it was parked. It needs a new bumper cover, new hood and there wasn't a scratch on the Jeep. Her nice big tow hook ripped the %$#@ out of the front of the car. The body shop was having trouble finding the right part number for the bumper cover. Oh well, I have been needing to have the ultra shield redone anyway. :-)

What are the differences in the Aero Cup kit and the Cup II kit? Is it just the because of the changes in the headlights?