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JFP in PA

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  1. My pleasure. Loren originally set up this site to provide both solid technical information, and perhaps more importantly, a place were knowledge could be shared, in order to help all members learn more about their vehicles and systems, so that they as owners could both take care of them and get the most enjoyment from them. It has always been our pleasure and a privilege to help those who wish to gain and apply that knowledge. 😉
  2. Like oil, how fast a coolant breaks down depends upon several factors, including how and where a car is driven, and the condition of the cooling system (existing corrosion levels, etc.) when the fresh coolant was added, so each vehicle can be different. Realistically, most coolants tend to be on a downward curve at about 5-6 years, and a candidate for replacement. But the inherent variability is why you check and test things. Acids attack metals, and tend to attach softer metals like aluminum faster that hard metals like steel; so the presence of a hot, acidic solution running th
  3. We always used distilled water, which we purchased from a local super market for about a buck a gallon. Problem with using tap water is the minerals it contains, everything from sodium to calcium (from the hardness), and even some other metal ions, all of which are bad for the coolant long term, and both lead to corrosion and coolant breakdown. Starting with fresh coolant and distilled water, which is what Porsche always recommended, keeps the system clean and the coolant working longer. There are a lot of really good coolants out there; Porsche's factory stuff is excellent, but e
  4. Porsche released a technical bulletin on this code, entitled "Complaint - Red Hybrid Warning Message Appears in the Instrument Cluster: Performing Guided Fault Finding Before Doing Any Other Work (106/19)", which cautions against making decisions on replacing the electric motor for this exact code until "As soon as at least one of the specified fault codes is stored as a passive fault in the fault memory, always perform guided fault finding using the PIWIS Tester before doing any other work in order to avoid incorrect repairs – in particular, replacing the electric motor unnecessarily."
  5. Antifreeze is a lot like oil, it has an additive package that controls pH, inhibits corrosion, and lowers the surface tension of the mixture. And like oil, these additive packages break down over time and exposure to heat and metal surfaces, which is why the term "lifetime" antifreeze is a joke. The pH of antifreeze solutions will buffer at a slightly basic pH, over time as the additive's break down, the pH range will shift to slightly acidic, which is not good, particularly in light alloy castings like most modern engines. pH and refractometer freeze points are typica
  6. On the bottom right side, you can see the zero C line (your unit is calibrated in C, you can also get them in F, which is more convenient): When a drop of pure water is placed on the prism, the blue line would be at the 32 F degree line, meaning the test fluid will freeze at that temp. A 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze would put the blue line around -50 to -60F. Note you have two antifreeze scales, one for ethylene glycol, the other for propylene glycol based coolants, so you need to know which type you are using to get the correct scale value.
  7. Get a coolant refractometer, uses one drop of fluid and is deadly accurate. Amazon sells them for around $20 or so, and you can get pH test strips for a few bucks for a jar holding 20-30 that also only need one drop. You don't always need zillion dollar tools to do the job correctly. 😉
  8. We would also visually inspect several things, like the brakes for thin pads, worn rotors, etc.; freeze point pH and clarity of the coolant; moisture level in the brake fluid, wiper blade condition and washer fluid level, oil level and condition, any fluid leakage (oil, coolant, power steering, brakes), abnormal tire tread wear and tread depth, exterior light functions (do they all work), and signs of physical damage like dents or rust on the lines under the car or the exhaust system. All this takes just a few moments to do, but can prevent the owners from getting stranded or stopped because
  9. If you had any pronounced vacuum leaks, your air/fuel ratios would go haywire, and eventually your computer would reach the end of its enrichment capability, both of which would trigger codes.
  10. Your photo happens to be the exact digital manometer I use, bought off of Amazon for about $35-40 at the time. Only one tube needs to be connected the the vacuum source, the other functions as an atmospheric pressure reference that you are measuring the vacuum level against. I also used a Porsche oil fill cap, but did it a bit more elegant than the one in your photo; I purchased brass barbed bulkhead fittings of Amazon and use O-rings on each side to seal it. As every car out there has an oil fill cap, you can make up as many vehicle specific testers as you need. To test, you need to first
  11. Welcome to RennTech Couple of possibles: (1) A wiring issue causing the heaters to malfunction. (2) The reflash itself. A lot of people have experienced all sorts of weird DME issues after getting aftermarket reflashes done as these systems are quite often set up to try to eek out small power gains by trying to trick the basic DME engine control functions, everything from strange codes to blocking connection to the OBD II port. Returning the vehicle to the factory DME flash put an end to the problems.
  12. As each line on the oil level gauge is a small fraction of a liter (somewhere around 0.2 L), by adding a two quart (or liter) sump extension, and then lowering the level two bars from the full line, you have still increased your total oil capacity by around 1.6 L; and as any increase in oil capacity is generally a good thing, you are still ahead of the game. 😉
  13. Not remotely correct in is this world. But I would agree that Porsche's A40 spec is irrelevant as it is a marketing tool, not a lubricant specification. If you want real specs, consider products that meet or exceed ACEA A3/B3/B4, which are real, technically based and widely accepted performance standards.
  14. A "breather" is simply and atmospheric vent, not unlike an open window. The vacuum signal "throttling" done by the AOS is much like the thermostat in your home: It keeps the environment in the sump at a controlled level. If there were no vacuum level, the low tension rings would not seal, pressure would build up, and engine oil seals would blow out. Too high a vacuum signal and the intake starts inhaling oil as Jake showed in his video and the engine kills itself. The AOS vacuum throttling function keeps the sump "just right". 😉 That part in the diagram marked "breather" is act
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