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You can see it and feel if it has a too much play, but that is about it. You can use a pick to remove the rear seal which is highly recommended. You MUST however prep the engine as though you were removing it (locked at TDC, cams locked, tensioners removed, etc.) before pulling the rear flange to have a peek.
JFP in PA started following Durametric Camshaft Position has odd reading, 4 wheel drive system fault, 997.1 C4 Clutch Slip, looking for clutch/flywheel kit and and 5 others
I would stay away from the single mass flywheel for several reasons. Noise and chatter are problematic on the street, and both Porsche an a renowned Porsche engine builder had recommended against using them unless the engine's rotating mass and the single mass are dynamically balanced together. People tend to forget the dual mass is the ONLY harmonic dampening device in the rotating mass, removing capability that can take you to places you don't want to be. The upgraded clutch is also a toss up. For heavy track use, it may have the advantage, on the street, not so much. We have had customers run factory and replacement factory units with excellent street drivability and very long lives. The BBI slave is another questionable. Yes it changes the clutch pedal feel, but installations have be problem prone, including premature failures which the manufacturer continues to write off as due to the wrong fluid being used. But multiple cases have shown that to not be correct. As for your IMS bearing, while they are inspecting it, have them remove the rear seal so it can mist lubricate. We have many running this way with no problems.
Probably either a loose connection or the leveling servo is out. You should be able to activate the system with the Durametric or PIWIS and see what is going on.
Fluids, like solid objects, can transmit noise. If the throw out bearing is going south, it can transmit that noise to clutch slave, and forward to the clutch reservoir, which is just on the opposite side of the firewall from the clutch pedal. Put the car on a lift and listen by the bellhousing, if the bearing is bad, you should hear it.
There is no clutch cable in this car, it is hydraulically operated.
You isolate the damaged wire section, remove it, and correctly replace it with the appropriate sized and color replacement. To do it correctly, you cut open the bundle, solder in the new wire, apply heat shrink tubing over the solder joint(s) and rewrap the harness. You can replace the entire harness, but you will need a big check book for that; one or two wires and some time would come in a Hell of a lot cheaper. Done correctly, you would have to look very closely to even know it had been touched. Running duplicate wires is quicker, but also a flag saying someone did not want to take the time to do it correctly, and which could turn prospective buyer's off.
You replace it. This is not rocket science...…..
Considering the code definition (e.g.: a short), I would also check the unit's wiring.
P2402 indicates an internal short in the leak detection pump, which is probably why it won't run. Usually, it also means that the pump has to be replaced.
First of all, cam deviation values should only be check on a thoroughly warmed up engine, say after a 10-15 min. drive. Second, if you get the same reading, you have a possible issue as the limits are +/- 6 degrees.
JFP in PA replied to kbrandsma's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Too small a diameter.