Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


JFP in PA last won the day on April 14

JFP in PA had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

693 Outstanding


About JFP in PA

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender

Profile Fields

  • From
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    02 S......

Recent Profile Visitors

6,974 profile views
  1. You can get a set of small "ez out" hex bits, one of which should fit tightly into the bolt head while rotating counter clockwise, which will loosen the stripped fastener. Amazon and others sell them (Amazon screw/bolt extractor set)
  2. The sump cover is a flat plate with an attached baffle system used to reduce oil slosh. What you would be looking for is an accumulation of material similar to what was on the drain plug, or any other accumulated material that should not be in there. When you get it down, take pictures to post here so we can see what you find.. The sump cover is sealed to the engine with a sealant material, there is no gasket. Reinstallation requires thoroughly cleaning the mating surfaces, applying a thin bead of sealant to the cover, pushing it into place and properly torqueing the bolts. You cannot see
  3. OK, the reason I asked is that it is possible to blow out that seal if you jack the pressure up too high (I have seen people go to over 20 PSIG, which the fluid reservoir was never meant to see, and the seal fails). I would check with a dealer to see if the seal is available by itself, but I suspect it is not.
  4. There will always be some ferrous material on a magnetic drain plug, or inside the filter housing when using a Filter Mag; the question is how much is too much. It is not uncommon for people to panic the first time they change oil after installing a magnetic plug, or in particular the Filter Mag, as the first change will show what has been collecting for the entire life span of the engine before the magnetic field was introduced. Because the drain plug see way less of the volume of oil that the Filter Mag does, large amounts there are very concerning, which is why I would drop the sump cover
  5. Ferrous debris can come from multiple sources such as the crankshaft, valve springs, cams, and of course the IMS bearing. Problem is that having ferrous debris running around in the oil is much like having sand in there, it will abrade all the bearing surfaces. The correct move at this juncture is to drop the sump cover; if there is even more inside there, your options are limited, as is the life expectancy of the engine. You cannot simple try to flush this stuff out, there are far too many places it can collect inside the engine, and it will start to move around over time, slowl
  6. Fine iron filings typically look black in oil. If you still have any, try magnet on it.
  7. That has nothing to do with the amount of metal filings on the plug, accumulated metal (particularly ferrous metal) is a bad sign.
  8. That looks like a little more than I would expect to see. If the car was in my shop, I would drop the sump cover and have a good look; if you find a lot more of the same thing, the engine is definitely beyond the point of even thinking about an IMS retrofit. That kind of grit running around in the oil will kill a replacement IMS bearing that is open to allow oil into it.
  9. You don't need to use the dealer to get this type of information, there are websites that list every known plug type to every brand known to mankind. The two plugs you noted above are exactly the same, other than their electrode metals; one is platinum, the other nickel; otherwise they are exactly the same. Summit Racing sells the Motorcraft AGSF22N for $4 each, Advanced Auto Parts is closer to $5. There is no magic here, Generac is trying to screw you on the part, which is common. My 33 Kw Kohler used an air filter that they sell for $45, Wix makes it for them and you can buy them on Amaz
  10. OK, let's separate the wheat from the chaff on plug construction; assuming the plug is the correct thread size, heat range, and length for the application, the next biggest question is the materials of construction. Durability is a function of what the electrodes are made of, and falls in a simple order from the most durable to the least: Iridium/platinum/nickel/copper. In a car engine, an iridium plug can easily go 100K miles in a harsh application, while a copper plug may need to be changed out after only 20-30K miles simply because the copper is the least durable metal.
  11. Just a suggestion, but it would seem you are overthinking this a bit, plus I wouldn't use either plug in the generator. For some years now, iridium plugs, which outlast and outperform just about any other plug technology on the market in the harshest spark plug applications, have been available. As your standby generator has to work when you need it to, I would be looking for an Iridium plug cross reference for the Motorcraft plugs and simply forget about what the manufacturer recommends. I have personally used Denso Iridium plugs in everything from my Porsche, to my 33 Kw Kohler
  12. Because everyone see that, as a gentle reminder that we are member supported, but not everyone choses to do so. Beneath your chosen logo, you are identified as a contributor.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.