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JFP in PA

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JFP in PA last won the day on August 12

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  1. You need to look behind the water pump at the engine case wall.
  2. I believe the Gates pump has a metal impeller: I am concerned that the pump was replaced because of overheating, not because the pump had failed or was making noise. The question is why was it overheating? At this juncture, if the car was in my shop, I would pull the water pump and look at both the impeller and the wall of the engine case. If the case is tore up, you are chasing your tail trying to get the system to work. As for the reviews of the pump, some "complain" the impeller is composite, others complain it is metal, so it sounds like they could go either way. In any case, we ONLY use the factory water pumps, which are all composite impellers, and work well, unlike several aftermarket brands we have looked at. Unfortunately, many aftermarket bits for Porsches are really junk; water pumps, surge tanks, and AOS units are great examples of what not to buy. We have seen several fail right out of the box. Yes, they are a few bucks cheaper, but after some people have gone through two or three units in quick succession, that few bucks looks like a really bad deal...…..
  3. Something 'organic" is wrong here, so let's start with the basic elements of the system: You said you pulled the thermostat and tested it, correct? Do you have the paper work from the water pump install? Can you see the water pump and verify that it is new? Is it possible to contact the shop that did the work and find out why they replaced the pump and if the original and replacement pump had a metal or composite impeller? People have a tendency to replace the composite impeller pumps in these cars with aftermarket metal impeller pumps because they are cheaper and people think they are better, which is a big problem. The clearance between the back of the impeller and the engine case is only a couple thousandth's of an inch in order to get proper coolant flow, and Porsche used composite impellers specifically because as the pumps age, the shaft begins to wobble and the impeller hits the engine case. If the impeller is composite, the impeller breaks up and fails; if the impeller is metal however, it begins machining away the engine case, creating a much larger gap, and renders any new pump, regardless of impeller type, unable to move the coolant in sufficient volume to keep the engine cool. Unfortunately, there is no coming back from this a the engine would have to come out and apart to spray weld up the are and then be machined to the correct tolerance's, which is too expensive to be realistic.
  4. Sounds correct, but obviously if you have no heat from a heater that has full flow all the time, there has to be air in the system, or the doors on the HVAC system are not moving correctly. Pull the cover off on the passenger's side next to the battery, start the car and let it warm up, you should be able to feel both heater lines and see if they get hot.
  5. Distilled water will not change anything. If you don't have heat, you still have air in the system.
  6. Just be aware of two points: You are disabling a federally mandated safety item; in many states that is grounds for failing the car at its annual inspection. Your insurance company can play games with you if you have an accident such as rear ending someone of bumping into an inanimate object. You purposely disabled a mandated safety feature designed to prevent such things, you could end up on the hook for all the damage.
  7. Yes, the air is compressible. It all depends upon where the air is; if it is in the engine it should come out easily, if it is in the radiators, it will try to push a lot of water ahead of it.
  8. That's because you have a lot of air in the system. Try draining the tank with a turkey baster and then pulling a vacuum SLOWLY...…..
  9. We do this all the time when DIY coolant changes don't work out; it can be done, but you have to raise the vacuum level slowly in stages to allow the air to come out.
  10. You need to throttle the vacuum and bring the level up slowly, the system is trying to "burp" and you need to bring the vacuum up in stages so the system can expel the air without pushing the coolant ahead of it. Ultimately, you should reach 25-27 inches of vacuum when the system is free of air.
  11. 1. The answer is no. As long as the vacuum tool is above the liquid level, it will not pull coolant out. I would suggest bringing the vacuum level up slowly as the system will "burp" which could splash coolant onto the vacuum unit. 2. The bleeder has O-rings on it that can be replaced, and you can buy a complete new unit as well. DO NOT use aftermarket pieces, they have proven to be of poor quality.
  12. I'd check the markets in your area, what they sell for here is irrelevant.
  13. It would be a bit of a nightmare to convert a non switchable exhaust to a switchable version. The factory has bypass pipes welded inside the muffler to facilitate the two pathways, the system you have does not, so they would have to cut it apart and weld them in. I think that would end up costing you more than just buying the real thing and selling the unit you have.
  14. You need an air compressor to operate the Uview and create vacuum. If you pressured the tank and the level dropped, you just proved you have air in the system. Air is compressible, coolant is not, which is why the level changed. The system should hold pressure at 18 PSIG, if it drops lower, it is leaking. Bleeder valves are known to do this.
  15. We use a Joma high pressure test kit, all stainless and Kevlar that is capable of reading 2,000 bar. Sells for about $750.
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