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JFP in PA

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Community Answers

  1. Both procedures involve specialized tooling; draining and flushing the cooling system is not much different than most cars, there is a drain plug near the thermostat housing for the purpose. Flushing should be done with distilled water, and the new coolant should be premixed with distilled water before refilling the system, which is where a special tool comes into play. The correct way to refill the system with the fresh mix it by using a tool like the Uview Airlift to evacuate the system first, then pull the coolant in under vacuum. This totally eliminates any chance for dangerous air pockets to form in the system. The AC system is similar, you need a freon capture system (you cannot simply vent it to the atmosphere) to recover what is currently in the system, and then R134A manifold gauge set and a nitrogen cylinder to flush the system, followed by the application of high vacuum from a pump to remove both the nitrogen and any moisture in the system for a period of time, after which the system can be recharged to the correct level (Porsche has a temp/pressure chart) to get the system operational. Now here is the downside of these procedures: The Airlift tool will set you back over $100 and needs a high-capacity air compressor to operate it correctly. The AC will require a nitrogen cylinder with pressure regulator (about $60 for the regulator, the cylinder cost is a local rental), and the capture/recharge system is about $5K. Most Porsche shops have all the necessary hardware and would charge you far less than what you would need to equip yourself to get both jobs done correctly.
  2. Not necessarily if there is an intermittent short somewhere in the harness. The FSM states that if the sensor and wiring check out, to replace the Tip control module.
  3. DTC 0710 indicates an open circuit or short to ground in the transmission temperature sensor Normal faults are wiring on the sensor harness, the temp sensor itself, or the Tiptronic control module.
  4. Without physically seeing the entire engine, the answer to your first question would be a total guess. As to your second question; using crap oil, running the oil too long between changes. You should be running a high ZDDP content oil, changing it (and the filter) every 5-7K miles.
  5. Not really. As there are no removable bearing inserts in the cylinder hear or cam cover, they simply cannot be bored or honed to clean them up as that would make the assembled cam bores too large; same with the cams themselves.
  6. Whoever told you the entire axle has to be replaced is simply taking the easy way out and trying to replace the entire axle assembly. The boots are available as parts as shown in your diagram. So unless the axle is damaged, or the CV joints are bad, they are taking the easy way out, right through your wallet..................
  7. The CV joints at both ends of your axles are housed inside flexible rubber boots that dry out and slit over time, allowing grease to be thrown out:
  8. Welcome to RennTech First, don't panic. When you leave the oil cap off, the AOS is unable to maintain the correct level of vacuum in the oil sump that helps the very low-tension piston rings in these engines seal. So, no vacuum, no ring seal, and lots of oil gets up into the combustion chambers. Once the oil cap is back, everything returns to normal and the rings seal back up. Just make sure the oil level is correct, and I would add some Techron gas additive to the tank and fill it up. A couple of nice long drives should get rid of any residual oil 😉
  9. The causes for this DTC may include: *Contaminated or failed HO2S2 (Sensor 2) *HO2S2 wiring/circuit problem *Fuel pressure incorrect *Faulty fuel injector *Engine coolant leak *Faulty purge solenoid valve
  10. DTC 9110 indicates the DME is not communicating, could be the DME, but as you have been switching harnesses around, I'd start by checking to make sure the harness is good (no breaks or shorts, lose connections, etc.) before swapping out the DME.
  11. No need to apologize, it takes years of working on these engines before you become proficient in "Porsche speak"............🙃
  12. If this is what you are referring to: Porsche literature describes it differently (lifter housing), but to answer your question, there is no particular procedure to remove it, but it needs to be retorqued to 7.5 ft. lbs. when reinstalled
  13. Can you be more specific on what "follower plate" you are referring to?
  14. Brake fluids have a defined shelf life, usually around two years in unopened metal containers, but I have no data on plastic. This is exactly why it is always a good idea to own a brake fluid moisture tool, which is cheap insurance. 😉
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