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4agdtym

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Everything posted by 4agdtym

  1. I had similar problem a couple years back. I decided that the towers which support rear suspension were not sufficiently reinforced when I went to change the trans fluid and had difficulty removing the triangular plate to access the drain plug. I constructed a bar to ad stability to the towers and to hold them in the correct alignment - similar to the one offered by Pedro's Garage (also available on Pelican Parts) and the problem was corrected with the next alignment. Make sure you get the correct bar for your car - one for manual another for auto trans. http://www.pelicanpa...r%2FBoxster%20S Tomorrow I'm beginning the install of the ROW M030 suspension as well as replacement of all control arms, links and tie rods. I'm going to use the Tarret adjustable arms on the rear since lowering the car will limit camber/toe adjustments with stock toe adjust arm.
  2. I just got the Tarrets and will install them tomorrow. Stomski also makes one. http://www.pelicanpa...20Boxster%20all
  3. I'll let you know when mine is installed. I'm shooting for -2 in the rear and -1.25 in the front. I had it at -2 and -.7. My tire wear indicated I could still go more in the front. The rear had worn evenly across the tread. The parts have been ordered. Some have been delivered and some are still in a holding patter somewhere between manufacturer and my place. I was able to get a ROW M030 kit from Sunset - I thought it might be too late. The kit was back-ordered and some of the parts weren't even available individually. I started to wonder if I was going to go for after-market parts. I hope to have it done before the middle of May.
  4. Please don't buy a battery from the dealer. I had similar problem as you, though I was able to get the hod open. My battery was not able to keep a charge well as it had aged. I replaced it with an Interstate from the local NAPA store and installed a maintainer that stays under the hood. When I'm done driving, I plug the car in. I haven't had any trouble since.
  5. Just got news from Sunset that my ROW M030 kit is on the way! I'm excited. I'm wondering if I should change the suspension related busings (in the control arms) while we are in there. (there appears to be some play in the steering wheel/response that I'm hoping is bushing related and not rack&pinion) I think I'd like to replace as much as possible with urethane. Any recommendations? What is a good source for urethane bushings? For those of you who have done this, are there other parts that might need to be replaced while this is apart? I did order new fasteners for the kit related parts. The car has 85,500 miles now. thanks for your thoughts, David
  6. I installed the B&M in my car and have loved it ever since. I understand what people refer to as "notchy" and don't find it a problem.
  7. WOW! Looks like a new engine. Nice. What that set you back?
  8. I'm curious about the 30,000 mile expectation. I know of no one who owns a Porsche who gets anywhere near that from a set of tires - nothing that even approaches 20, 000 miles. Do you auto-x or track your car?
  9. It appears to be time to replace the brakes. The car (base '01 986) has 84,000 miles now. The brake wear idiot light came on briefly on a post Christmas drive. I haven't tracked the car - yet. I do auto-x several times a year and regularly enjoy spirited driving on twisty roads. I haven't mic'd the rotors yet, but suspect that they will need replacement along with pads. I'm curious to know what y'all have experienced with the options - stock, cross-drilled, dimpled, cry treated, slotted, cross-drilled and slotted .... there are so many options. I do hope to track the car in the next year or so. I want a set-up that will give me good performance on the street/auto-x and decent performance on the track. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. david
  10. Once again ... correct. I'm back on the road!
  11. Ok ... the key barrel is in, the gauges are connected. the wires are plugged in. Something is VERY wrong. The car won't start. the oil pressure light and the batter light are on when I put the key in. Here's the whole story. Last Sunday - Halloween - I went to a friend's to have dinner and pass out candy to the kids in his neighborhood. When I arrived, I couldn't get the key out. I knew at that time that the switch had failed. (I've been reading the boards and recognized the symptom.) Later that eve, I started the car, drove home and put her in the garage. The key still would not come out. The next morning I packed up my truck and headed out of town for the week. The car was locked in the garage, the battery maintainer was plugged in and I figured it would wait until I got home to fix it. While I was away, I ordered the new switch assembly; it was waiting for me when I got home today. when I got home this afternoon, I tried to start the car and the instruments were whacked - like the battery was low - and the car would not start. Something happened while I was away.??? I guess I should have disconnected the battery before I left. I then resumed the replacement of the switch assembly. I disconnected the battery and went through the steps of the of the switch assembly replacement. I now have the instrument cluster reinstalled, the wires all connected, etc. When I tried to stat the car, there were all kinds of whirring sounds. The spoiler went up. It sounded like the starter solenoid was clicking and maybe a fuel pump was working. There was no engine starting. The instrument lights are not working properly - no oil check when the key is turned. So ... here I sit with a new ignition switch assembly and the car won't start. Any ideas???? I have disconnected the battery until I get some guidance. david
  12. Thanks Loren. I had tried the paper-clip - using the smaller one - and didn't get it to work. Now I've gotten it. thank you. david
  13. Wow! I decided to get the newly designed unit instead of just the Audi plastic part. Maybe this was a mistake. This is way more involved than replacing the Audi part. Maybe another 9 or ten years of service out of the new plastic would have been worth the easier remove and replace procedure. I have the cluster out, the cover over the steering column is out and the light switch housing/air vent is removed. I got the old barrel out. How do I remove the tumbler assembly from the old unit and install it in the new unit? How do I remove the plastic wire guides (2) from the old barrel to install them on the new barrel? thanks, david
  14. Thanks Maurice, The instruction indicate that the key is to be removed. My key will not come out - it won't rotate counterclockwise far enough. Will that be a problem? thank you, David
  15. Hi, So I think my switch has joined the group of those who have failed. I cannot remove the key. It won't rotate fully counter clockwise. When I start the car, the headlights will not go on. The high beams go on only if I hold the lever to the rear. The fog lights, tail lights and brake lights work. Are these symptoms familiar? Will the DIY above guide me through the fix? thanks, David
  16. A friend's boxster (2002 base model in California) produced 4 codes after not starting: P0134 P0446 P1130 P1128 It looks like the first one is for the No 1 bank O2 sensor before the cat The second one might be a loose gas cap - could it be something else? The other two I can't locate with the search. Any ideas? Thanks for the help. david
  17. Loren, Thank you. Once again I have gotten quick and useful answers to my questions. But of course, the TSBs! There is just so much to know - even to know where to look. You and the others are an amazingly valuable resource.
  18. I drive an '01 Boxster - base model. A friend recently sold his '04 and kept the speedster humps. We tried to put them on my '01 and the locking mechanism didn't work as it did on his '04. Is there a difference in the dimensions of the spinlocks? Shouldn't these two cars use the same accessories? I'd appreciate any knowledge from any experience out there. Thanks, David
  19. Having bled the brakes and the clutch on my Boxster ... has anyone relocated the clutch bleed valve to a more accessible location? It seems that it wouldn't be too hard to do so with a length of tubing, some kind of brass fitting and some mounting brackets. David
  20. I occasionally have trouble with the gauge reading accurately when I fill the tank - but not on the way down. I remember seeing a TSB regarding the tie-wrapping you had done. I'm surprised that the dealer didn't notice that right off the bat. I haven't completed the tie-wrap procedure. I'm not concerned enough since I have no trouble as the tank empties.
  21. Well, I have another opinion. Tire pressure is more a function of driving style combined with tire size, than a function of tire brand. Depending on different desired goals, you would use different pressures. I enjoy the spirited drive and I auto cross regularly. If you look at the tire sidewalls, most tires have indicators that are a guide for setting tire pressure to maximize tire performance for cornering and acceleration goals. Usually the indicator looks like a little arrow, diamond, or some other figure that sits just about a the point where the tread meets the sidewall - there are several indicators evenly spaced around the sidewall of a tire. I'm not at home with car and camera or I would share a photo of the indicators on my tires - Yokohama s-drive (an inexpensive tire that wears relatively well, has decent grip, and a very economical price - not for top-end high speed track use). I set the pressures so that the tire shows wear just at the point of the indicator when driving very hard in corners - even driving at the point where traction begins to get lost. If the wear goes beyond the indicator, I need more air; if the wear doesn't reach the indicator, I need less air. For my tires (225/45/R17 front and 255/40/R17 rear) it works out to about 33 front and 36 rear. When I used the factory size tires on the front (205/50/R17), I used 29 front and 36 rear - the recommended pressures from the factory regardless of tire manufacturer - (I believe). If you are trying to maximize gas mileage, you probably want to run the tire a bit higher in pressure to reduce rolling resistance (or you might just want to buy an economy car). Still, the pressure is likely to be different in front and rear due to the different tire sizes front and rear. Too much air will reduce cornering performance and/or decrease traction during acceleration - and cause increased wear along the center of the tread. Not enough tire pressure will reduce performance and reduce tire life due to increased heat created in the sidewalls as they flex during rotation (and increased wear at the edges of the tread pattern). Hope this helps. David
  22. My car hasn't been modified. I was just trying to indicate that many smog shops don't look under the hood and most probably don't know what it is supposed to look like, even if they did look. If it isn't too much work to replace the secondaries with tubing, I'd do it, keep the parts and see what happens. Worst is that they will tell you to put it back to original. Maybe it is a thing you deal with every two years. there are some exhaust manufacturers that claim they will pass smog in CAL with the secondaries removed. See the system sold by FabSpeed - a system I fantasize about putting on my car. http://www.fabspeed.com/Boxster.html
  23. I've had mine smogged twice - at the same shop. Once he put it on the dyno - the other he did not. He has never inspected anything even though I offered to open the engine. If your car meets the emissions without the secondary cats, you are probably going to be fine - unless you have a shop that does a thorough visual and knows what to look for.
  24. I'm planning on changing fluid this weekend. Any variations for the '01 Boxster? How about the look or location of the clutch bleeder? Thanks, David
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