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dammad

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Everything posted by dammad

  1. Yes tempting to drain the oil, but based on other articles, the car would raise a dash warning if the oil is below low. Oil pressure moves up to about 4 and then quickly drops to 2 and then eventually down to 1.75. Given the 997.2 has on-demand oil pumps this seems to indicate that the pressure is ok. I had time this evening to get my durametric out to watch the temps. My durametric 6 software shows 3 different Engine Oil temps: Engine Oil Temp, T030_Engine Oil Temp and T100_Engine Oil Temp. The first of the three rises as one would expect. I watched it up to 70C (158F), but the gauge didn't move and the car won't let me read the oil level still. I would have left it longer but didn't have time. While I was in there, I noticed two fault codes: - PDK code 1990. something about positive torque - Left code C174. Something about convertible top implausible. Is there a good place for 997.2 workshop manuals?
  2. Hi, I've been a 996 owner for 10+ years and have just become the proud owner of a 2009 4s. I went to check the oil level electronically when it was delivered. I started the car and let it warm up. Alas the oil temperature gauge did not move from the bottom of the gauge and despite the coolant temps moving to normal, the on board computer keeps telling me it is waiting for it to warm up. I assume the computer is waiting for the oil temp but I'm at a loss as to why the temp isn't changing. Had a PPI on the car before purchase without issues so perhaps something got unplugged. Where is the oil temp sensor and where does it plug in? I don't see any obvious disconnected plugs. Of course may be I need to be more patient, but I figured the oil temp should atleast have started moving by the time the coolant is up to temp.
  3. Thanks for the part numbers and feedback. I too was looking for much lower dust, so perhaps I'll look further to see if I can find some for my 997.2 C4S
  4. Did anyone get a Hawk HPS part number for the fronts? Pelican still doesn't list them (only rears?!?) and the Hawk website has "Carrera" or "Targa 4S" to select from, not "Carrera 4S"...
  5. Did you ever get an answer for this? I'm trying to work out if 997.1 PSE mufflers are the same as 997.2 mufflers. I know there is a center muffler on the 997.2, but have no info if the geometry of the side mufflers was changed. So if you've found a good source of muffler info that would help me also.
  6. I'm in the market for a 997.2 and have found a great car (4S with PDK and Sports Chrono). I just got back the PPI and it states that the Cruise Control is Inoperative. Seems like an unlikely thing to go. I've asked the dealer for more info, but thought I'd ask the likely more knowledgeable folks here for input. Is it a simple problem of a fuse or connection somewhere? They also noted Oil overfill, which is a bit concerning. But I'm trying to find out if this is just that it was over the full mark (next segment up in the display) or displaying a warning. I think on a 997.2 the two are different. [Dealer confirmed just slight overfill, so no problem there] Alan.
  7. My '99 996 Tip Cab has been having central locking issues. Initially it would beep when locking/unlocking, but I tracked that down to the microswitch in the passenger door and fixed that. Now, just a couple of weeks later, the key fob stopped working suddenly. Normally I'd expect reduced range with a battery issue or unreliable opening if it was a contact problem, but I saw none of those symptoms. To be sure I switched to a new battery and checked that the key fob board all looks good. Still it is completely dead. I checked the car with my Durametric and got the following codes. I assume that may have come from when my microswitch was going. If I try to clear the codes, they come back with the same counts on the next restart. I don't have another key fob to try it, so apart from getting new key fobs and paying the dealer $$$, I'm stuck for a next step. Could there be some other problem that would cause the alarm to chirp once and not open or close the car from the key fob??? --- Alarm I32 Module Identification Part Number 996.618.260.07 Supplier Part Number 00 Current Fault Codes 47 Control locking synchronization Status: not present Occurance Counter: 6 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 61 Central locking limit position Unlock not reached Status: not present Occurance Counter: 62 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 21 W lead (DME immobilizer) Status: not present Occurance Counter: 1 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 60 Central locking limit position Lock not reached Status: not present Occurance Counter: 2 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 33 Interior sensor faulty Status: not present Occurance Counter: 20 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.
  8. Thanks for the feedback.. I figured as much.. Interesting discussion on the pros/cons of PDK. I've been looking for either but haven't found a manual I liked in my price range.
  9. I just did a PPI on a 09 C4S I was considering. The dealer came back and told me the PDK is leaking (not just a drip, but enough to cover the transmission housing) and seems to shudder more than normal at pull away (seems like a bit of shudder is normal).. the outside temps are cold (10F). My plan is to turn down the car and look elsewhere (since it is a $15k+ part), but thought I'd see what the group thinks too.
  10. Does anyone know the part number for the mechanism in the passenger door (right side) that I need to replace due to the micro-switches failing? My regulator is fine (not window play) and the interior handle works, but the exterior handle sometimes does not cause the window to drop to allow the glass to fit into the roof frame (cabrio). I've read I've got the replace the whole mechanism because the micro-switches aren't available separately, but I've never seen mention of the part number.
  11. Y2K911, You might be right. I've heard the alarm 'beep' occasionally when I lock it. I've checked the doors/hood/trunk and all look good. I've also seen the passenger door window not drop when closing. On the passenger door I've seen it work fine if I just repeat the closing but am sure the exterior handle is completely operating/moving... Perhaps the passenger door latch is sticking?
  12. My central locking switch on my '99 996 has adopted a strange new behavior. Normally the switch had no red light and all was good. However, these days while I driving the red light in the central locking dashboard switch comes on and then later turns off. I'm not sure what is causing it. I checked doors to see they were closed and they are. I've read somewhere here that the red light is normally on and is very annoying, but its been off for the last 8 years I've owned the car. Does the red light signify some fault (door lock not working) or do I have a dodgy connection somewhere and it has just started working normally?
  13. Perhaps one of the ties on that side has gone, but the fabric does not look taut so perhaps there are other problems.
  14. Ah yes, that's the one.. That would explain why I couldn't find it.. Not sure why it has suddenly started clicking much louder, but hopefully a new one will fix that.
  15. My EGR valve has become much noisy than the normal quiet ticking so I want to try replacing it. Alas I'm not finding it easily on Pelican parts or in the porsche parts catalog. Does anyone have the part number?
  16. I realize that information from the Carrera service manual indicates the low speed radiator fans should come on at 96.75c and high speed at 102c, but measuring mine appears to show the low speeds coming on at 100c (measured by ECTS in Durametric V6) rather than 96.75c. The #24 post in this thread appears to show that early carreras might switch at 100 (low) and 105 (high) but I've not seen this any where else. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/33858-overheating/page-2?hl=%20high%20%20low%20%20fan%20%20temperature%20%20dme My question is: could the engine temperature sensor be a different (possibly now updated) part number from the 2002- cars? I can't think of another good reason for mine switching on at 100c rather than 96.7c...
  17. Yay!!! Thermostat housing removed and it came out.. Many thanks for all your help. Since I've got the thermostat out I think I'll replace that too since I've 140,000 on the car already.
  18. yes free floating and yes carrier bracket is moved away from the engine. I've removed the bolts of the metal lines that go down the side of the oil pan but the metal line doesn't move that much because it is trapped between the water pump and thermostat housing. So it looks like I'll need to remove the thermostat housing to get that to move more and get it out.
  19. Looks like I'm going to have to remove the thermostat housing to get this thing out. Any recommendations for how to get to the two bolt heads that feel pretty inaccessible due to the exhaust manifold? Man, this water pump is providing to be much more of a pain than I imagined. Sorry for the continued questions. :help:
  20. Yes all the bolts are clear out, I can manipulate it in most orientations. I'm fiddled with it a lot but no go.. Just can't get it out!! I assume '99 tips are just a bit different.. :cursing: :cursing:
  21. Well I removed the second hose that goes up to the top of the engine (thermostat) but still no go? I've shimmied and shimmied it but seems 1/4" too wide due to the hard line that appears to run from the large coolant pipe towards the tiptronic. Is the gap smaller because mine's a tiptronic? Tempted to try from the top but the gap to the engine carrier is limited at the top. Uwon: haven't tried your tip yet.. the problem is width-wise for me..
  22. I've followed the excellent guide to remove the water pump on my '99 996 tip, but am now stuck with a problem. How to physically get the old pump out? Should I remove it with some manipulation from the bottom or from the top? From the bottom I don't seem to have a large enough gap between the two items highlighted in red in the attachment. From the top the belt tensioner seems to be in the way and the engine carrier swings from the bottom not the top so it is narrower. I must be being slow on a sunday morning, but what am I missing?
  23. frisbee91, Thanks for your comments and insights. The problem was that the center rear latch was opening allowing the clamshell to open up about 1-2" in that area, but the left and right latches did not open and so the clamshell was well and truly staying in position on both sides. I went back to the car late yesterday evening to try it again and after a couple of tries the clamshell opened and operated the top to close without problems. I've not tried it again since I'm not at home and don't really want to get it stuck again until I'm home at the weekend. Since the top did operate eventually this seems to indicate that none of the pushrods/gears are broken. The car was much colder last night so perhaps there is some kind of tolerance issue that caused something to bind in the heat of the day (it was 80F during the day).
  24. Alas since I'm away from home I don't have my durametric to get more info. :-(
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