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dammad

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Everything posted by dammad

  1. Is there a good connection point for always on power in the engine bay? I've seen discussions on switched power, but I'm looking for always on. In older vehicles I know there's a power connection for charging, but don't see that in my 997.2 4S engine bay. Any pointers would be appreciated.
  2. I'm adding an aftermarket (Kenwood) radio to my 2009 997.2 Everything seems good, but the radio antenna is confusing me. I see three antenna connectors on the back of the PCM3.0. According to my wiring diagram the FM/AM and SDARS (Satellite) are in one connector (4-pin) and the other two are for GPS and Telephone. All the instructions I can find says there are only two antenna connections (Black and Yellow), but I believe these are all for 997.1. I can't find any reference to the 4-pin antenna connector online or any form of adaptor to connect to it. Anyone done an aftermarket install on a 2009 got any ideas?
  3. I believe I've read that if the engine is running and you remove the oil cap, then the engine should stumble because vacuum is lost. However, if the AOS is leaking, then the engine note won't change appreciably because of the much higher vacuums being generated. Also, if the AOS is leaking the cap should be hard to remove at idle.
  4. My 2009 c4s has a leak on a connection to the water pump (see picture). I’ve put in UV dye and have confirmed it is at this joint. I’ve tightened the bolts a little (moved easily) but I’m still getting a leak. What’s the torque for these bolts? Is there a gasket? I had the pump changed 30k ago so assume they put in a new gasket. Any other suggestions? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Thanks Loren. Is there a diagram of the CAN bus somewhere? It seems a common element in many. Perhaps the plug into the PDK is old/faulty? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I was resetting my service reminder when I noticed the following codes on my PDK box: U0155: CAN timeout instrument cluster U0146: CAN timeout gateway U0418: CAN fault brake 1990: Positive engine torque intervention not possible U0423: CAN fault instrument cluster The car seems to run fine but I can’t clear the codes with the durametric and a battery reset didn’t help either. Any ideas? Thanks for any pointers you may have. Hoping I’m not in for a $$$$ bill. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I’ve sold that car so can’t look but inside the top there’s a spring/elastic arrangement that has to be hooked on each side. I’ll dig back in my photos to see if I have a picture. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. In case others see this. In my case (997 4S cab) vacuum comes from the engine near the drivers side (left) rear wheel well. My vacuum pipe had broken off at this point. Doing so stopped the PSE/Tuning flaps but also meant at startup that vacuum was reduced to the brakes causing them to be less effective initially. From the design, it looks like this point is a weak point in the vacuum system and can easily break off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Anyone any ideas? Wanted to try to fix it today (US holiday - Veteran's day). I can't find a diagram of the vacuum system to see where to test what the problem is.
  10. My PSE is stuck in loud mode. 🙂 While this isn’t a bad problem, I would like to be able to make it quiet for calls etc. I pulled off the vacuum line before the changeover and can’t perceive any vacuum at idle. I’ve also checked at the input to the switchover for the airbox resonator. Same no perceivable vacuum. I assume this isn't that normal? Where does the vacuum come from? The vacuum pipe seems to head to the front of the car rather than to the vacuum pipe on the engine? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Many thanks for the suggestions. I put it back together and so far no new leaks. So I think it was leaking out of the plenum seals, I assume that was because the Indy shop didn’t put them back right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Thanks for the feedback. I changed the AOS at an local independent and drove it for about a month but then noticed oil pooling on the block and rough running again. I looked around for other leaks with dye but couldn’t find any. The oil pools were directly below the plenum seals so believe once the oil built up in the plenum it leaked thru under pressure. I figured the AOS may still be broken, so changed it again myself. Used official Porsche part and fully cleaned Plenum. Did a 25 mile freeway test journey and now the Plenum is oily (thick layer on finger) already. Since I fully cleaned the plenum I don’t think it is residue. I’m wondering if a vacuum leak or something similar might cause problems like this. At this point no smoke except the usual shirt period of light smoke on startup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I've been trying to work out where my oil is coming from (see prior posts about oil pooling on top of the engine block). I've changed my AOS and looked for leaks with dye but I can't find any. Instead, it seems the oil is leaking from the plenum seals after it builds up and the air pressure allows it to slowly get out. Perhaps the shop that did the AOS didn't do the plenum clamps up tight, but they are now. I know some oil in the plenum is normal, so to test I cleaned it and did a 25mile highway drive. Even after this short drive, the plenum has a fair amount of oil inside and not a haze. Is this normal? What else could cause more oil than normal? Vacuum leak?
  14. I put it back on over the weekend. A couple more tips than above: - put the seals on the intakes - make sure to put the backs/bottoms of the seals in the right position. I pulled the fronts a bit wider to give more room to get the plenum in - connect the rear electrics/hoses then get the seals back in the right place since they’ll have moved. - put the bottom clamps in first and align them with the bottom of the seals. With these I managed to get them seated fairly easily. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I’ve fixed my oil in the plenum problem but now need to get the plenum reinstalled. Any suggestions for how to get the seals/clamps in place? So far I’ve have: - put bottoms of clamps in first - lube the seals with wd40 - pull the seals around the plenum to make sure they seat But I’m having difficulty getting the seals on, especially the backs. Should I put the seals on the plenum first or the intake? How to make sure the back is seated? Sorry my first time putting it back and can’t find any videos to show the process. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. I’ve spent a while looking at the dye from the test around the engine bay. Most seems to have dripped from the seals at the plenum bottom causing a light amount of dye in the pools of oil below. I do see a little oil at the AOS’s top valve (breather?) but not much. When an AOS dies does oil come out from the AOS itself or does it just cause the vent lines and air intake to get oily? I’ve *lots* of oil in the plenum. Any help appreciated. Lost as to the cause. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Busy tracing where the dye is coming from. What does this pipe do: behind and the left of the alternator? Seems to be that or dripping off it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Uh oh! The problem is back. Car was a bit rough yesterday, so I pulled off the air box this morning to check around. I've got oil in the same places above the engine. I checked the plenum/throttle body and it is very oily. Oil is sitting on top of the engine block on the left and right side of the engine. Now I'm torn. Did the shop not put the AOS in right? Are there other things that can cause oil in these places? I'm tempted to do the dye in the oil but would have to take the plenum, etc. off to be able to get a black light in there and I'm not really sure what the candidate components are to look for/at. Any suggestions?
  19. I had my oil level sensor go but when it went it just said nothing. If you are really concerned do as JFP suggests or dump all the oil out into something you can measure it with. If you change the sensor you have to change empty the oil anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Do you have a durametric you can use to pull some codes? I believe the PDK will flash something in the gear indicator if it is in limp home mode but this may be more subtle than that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Thanks. Saw the threads about keys getting stuck in. Didn't realize that was the same as keys that don't turn off the ignition. I guess it's all part of the same mechanism.
  22. I’ve found that increasingly when I turn off the ignition the car keeps running. I have to put it back in and wiggle it then turn off. Any idea what’s broken? Can I fix or do I need the dealer? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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