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About oversteerdawg

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Profile Fields

  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    01 986S
  • Former cars
    '95 M3
    '94 Miata
  1. Hi guys, I just changed my trans fluid to Redline MT-90 and it has suddenly become more notchy. The shift itself doesn't feel bad, but the engagement between gears seems really notchy. Almost as if the synchros are having issue. Once I get past the initial effort, the shift feels great. Anyone have this happen immediately after changing their trans fluid? Only thing I can think of is that the redline is too slippery for the synchros to properly engage, although I've never had this problem in any other car (nor have I heard this as being an issue in the 986S box). BTW, this was several
  2. I'd consider going to a tiny bit (or zero) of toe-in up front. There's no reason to toe-out a street car. It just kills your tires and makes the car less stable under braking and at high speeds.
  3. Russ, I don't know about these particular tires but..... no offense guys, but I know I'm not strappin my butt in any car capable of over 150mph, thats outfitted with $29.95 J.C.Penny tires (or the equivilent). I agree that price doesn't necessarily = performance, but don't you think that if Porsche thought for one minute that they could get the same performance out of a $60 tire that they could a $200 tire, they would be outfitting the car with the $60 tires and increasing their profit margins....I do. One way or another....you always get what you pay for. The Falken Azenis RT-
  4. This is going to for a car that commutes 65 miles a day and sees the track once a month. I'm happy with how the car handles, but I wouldn't mind a touch less low speed understeer. I'm aligning it today to max negative camber up front with minimal toe-in up front. On the rear, I'm going to about a degree negative in the rear with a touch of toe-in. I'm mounting some new Bridgetone RE-01R's and I'll post my impressions of both alignment and the tires.
  5. Sure, lots of people. The first thing I did when I picked up my '00 S was set the front camber to max negative (about -.5 degrees, not much) and reset the front toe to zero. A friend with an '03 S did the same thing, yet his handles much differently. More push on turn-in than mine, even with the larger (Stock) rear swaybar installed on the '03+ cars. I believe this is because my car has less rear camber and toe than his car does. As soon as the weather warms up and I can install my US 030 suspension, I'll get the car realigned. The plan is to start with zero front toe and maximum
  6. I'm getting my car aligned and I was thinking of straying from Porsche's specs. Fisrt of all, am I reading it correctly that the factory spec for the front axle actually has 5 minutes of POSITIVE camber? I was thinking of going to about a degree negative (providing I can get there on the stock suspension adjustment) with minimal toe-in. Also, I noticed the toe settings fr and rr are 5 (plus or minus 5) minutes of toe-in. Does this mean it's safe to run nearly zero toe all around? I'm trying to reduce low speed understeer a bit w/o making the car too twitchy or killing my tires. Long stor
  7. What size hex key do I need to adjust the headlights? I can't see in the hole for a visual. Thanks
  8. My '01 S w/ 47k makes a loud squeal right when the engine fires. It sounds a lot like bearing noise from an idler pulley. It goes away completely when the car is warm. Is there a way to examine the pulleys? I can't see anything from above and, while I have yet to get the car in the air, I don't think that looking from below is going to help much either. Any ideas? Are pulleys a known "issue" on these cars? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance -Tom '01 986 S
  9. I wrote the codes down, but I can't find it now. The strange thing is they were all O2 related, but the O2 voltage readings seem normal.
  10. I have a 2001 S and the cel is on. Here's the weird part. The car was making a high pitched sucking sound near the fuel filler. I had an error code for the evap system so I figured it was either the purge valve or the bleeder at the filler neck. I changed out the purge valve and the the cel and noise went away. A week later noise and cel is back. However, this time when I went to scan it i got 4 codes that were all O2 sensor related. Any ideas? The maf has been changed and the car runs great, but the cel and sucking noise is very annoying.
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