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oversteerdawg

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Everything posted by oversteerdawg

  1. Hi guys, I just changed my trans fluid to Redline MT-90 and it has suddenly become more notchy. The shift itself doesn't feel bad, but the engagement between gears seems really notchy. Almost as if the synchros are having issue. Once I get past the initial effort, the shift feels great. Anyone have this happen immediately after changing their trans fluid? Only thing I can think of is that the redline is too slippery for the synchros to properly engage, although I've never had this problem in any other car (nor have I heard this as being an issue in the 986S box). BTW, this was several hundred miles ago on a 986S 6-speed box. Thanks guys. -Tom '01 986S
  2. I'd consider going to a tiny bit (or zero) of toe-in up front. There's no reason to toe-out a street car. It just kills your tires and makes the car less stable under braking and at high speeds.
  3. Russ, I don't know about these particular tires but..... no offense guys, but I know I'm not strappin my butt in any car capable of over 150mph, thats outfitted with $29.95 J.C.Penny tires (or the equivilent). I agree that price doesn't necessarily = performance, but don't you think that if Porsche thought for one minute that they could get the same performance out of a $60 tire that they could a $200 tire, they would be outfitting the car with the $60 tires and increasing their profit margins....I do. One way or another....you always get what you pay for. The Falken Azenis RT-615 (and the previous generation RT-215) are some of the best performance tires you can buy. Rediculously sticky (as sticky or stickier than PS2's) and progressive at the limit. They are loud and they wear fast. Those who have never tried this tire please don't comment with your misinformation. These are among the best tires you can buy if you want a street/track setup. Until the Yokohama Advan Neovas, the falkens were the hot ticket in SCCA street tire classes.
  4. This is going to for a car that commutes 65 miles a day and sees the track once a month. I'm happy with how the car handles, but I wouldn't mind a touch less low speed understeer. I'm aligning it today to max negative camber up front with minimal toe-in up front. On the rear, I'm going to about a degree negative in the rear with a touch of toe-in. I'm mounting some new Bridgetone RE-01R's and I'll post my impressions of both alignment and the tires.
  5. Sure, lots of people. The first thing I did when I picked up my '00 S was set the front camber to max negative (about -.5 degrees, not much) and reset the front toe to zero. A friend with an '03 S did the same thing, yet his handles much differently. More push on turn-in than mine, even with the larger (Stock) rear swaybar installed on the '03+ cars. I believe this is because my car has less rear camber and toe than his car does. As soon as the weather warms up and I can install my US 030 suspension, I'll get the car realigned. The plan is to start with zero front toe and maximum front camber. The rear will start with minimum rear camber and zero toe as well, but I'll dial in camber as needed to keep the back end in line. This is for an autocross car with 245 front and 285 rear tires. Hope this helps. I didn't realize camber adjustment was so limited (then again, strut suspension). I'm going to max negative camber up front and the tiniest amount of front toe-in. My experience has been that going to a tiny bit of toe-in will compensate for bushing flex and will toe-out to zero once the car is moving. What toe and camber settings are you running in the back? I'm thinking of going to zero (as it looks like zero rear toe is w/in spec). Has anyone done that? Is it twitchy, or is the toe curve on the rear suspension aggressive enough to compensate for it? I'm a big of a suspension buff, but I'm not terribly familiar with the motion ratio and geometry of the 986. This is all on a U.S. M030 car, btw.
  6. I'm getting my car aligned and I was thinking of straying from Porsche's specs. Fisrt of all, am I reading it correctly that the factory spec for the front axle actually has 5 minutes of POSITIVE camber? I was thinking of going to about a degree negative (providing I can get there on the stock suspension adjustment) with minimal toe-in. Also, I noticed the toe settings fr and rr are 5 (plus or minus 5) minutes of toe-in. Does this mean it's safe to run nearly zero toe all around? I'm trying to reduce low speed understeer a bit w/o making the car too twitchy or killing my tires. Long story short, has anyone tried a degree of negative camber up front, stockish rear camber and minimal toe-in all around?
  7. What size hex key do I need to adjust the headlights? I can't see in the hole for a visual. Thanks
  8. My '01 S w/ 47k makes a loud squeal right when the engine fires. It sounds a lot like bearing noise from an idler pulley. It goes away completely when the car is warm. Is there a way to examine the pulleys? I can't see anything from above and, while I have yet to get the car in the air, I don't think that looking from below is going to help much either. Any ideas? Are pulleys a known "issue" on these cars? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance -Tom '01 986 S
  9. I wrote the codes down, but I can't find it now. The strange thing is they were all O2 related, but the O2 voltage readings seem normal.
  10. I have a 2001 S and the cel is on. Here's the weird part. The car was making a high pitched sucking sound near the fuel filler. I had an error code for the evap system so I figured it was either the purge valve or the bleeder at the filler neck. I changed out the purge valve and the the cel and noise went away. A week later noise and cel is back. However, this time when I went to scan it i got 4 codes that were all O2 sensor related. Any ideas? The maf has been changed and the car runs great, but the cel and sucking noise is very annoying.
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