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944sarethebest

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Everything posted by 944sarethebest

  1. I had an oil change on the P!G (M1 synthetic) before a trip and that's when the trouble started... The driver side wheel well makes a gentle creaking sound at idle RPM, which seems to disappear at higher RPM. It sounded like a small frog quietly chirping in the wheel well and I was worried it was a turbo. When we popped the hood, there was sound of a vacuum near the intake. The PCV to crankase hose (part #5) collapses while the engine is running and the oil fill port sucks strong vacuum if the fill cap is removed. My local independent mechanic (I'm some distance from a Porsche specialist) found that hose 14 and 15 are both cracked and identified their failure as causing the sound. Cause of failure is presumed age/heat. Since replacing those two components are $370-400 in hoses, is there something else we should be looking into as a cause of these pipe failures? Searching the forums I came upon a discussion that makes me think maybe we should be looking at the PCV valve, air oil separator membrane, and the diverter valves? I'm wrench-familiar with NA cars and new to turbos so I'd appreciate your input. Is the restricted airflow or vacuum interruption causing turbo noise? Has anyone else seen this and what else should I be checking? We do see the boost gauge work normally or at least what it has historically (under acceleration it hits 0.8 bar/pegged and then holds near 0.6-0.7) before these issues started. The rest of the car seems to work well, aside from the a sticky secondary air injection check valve on the passenger side. Hoses 94810721753 and 94810721651 are cracked 2005 Cayenne V8 Twin Turbo 1085 944 early Oklahoma
  2. Followup: I replaced this with a newer SR39X small diameter starter, which works. I did discover after this that my original Bosch starter is actually good (both car batteries I tested it with were not). The difference between a direct drive (original) and a geared (small diameter) starter is significant. I like the feel and sound of the direct drive starter and I'm might swap it back in.
  3. I am starting to debug the Cayenne seat heating system and I'm starting a post with some findings as there was limited information in forum searches and this could be a helpful comparison as we keep these running. The seat heater is actual composed of 4 seat heating elements: a pad that heats the bottom (center), a coil that heats in the bottom bolster left and right, a pad that heats in the backrest (center), and an element that heats the side bolster. The center seat pad also contains a thermistor (a resistor whose resistance changes based on the temperature), and it's role is to prevent overheating. A common issue is that the seats begin to heat and then turn off after 2-6 minutes. It is most common in the front seats and normally affects only one seat. Apparently, I have read that this is likely due to either the thermistor or its thin leads failing. Since the thermistor is attached to the seat cushion, they'll typically replace the whole seat, which is great if you're under warranty, not so much if you are not (>$1000). I was working on a 2005 CTT that started to have this issue and I started debugging. The connector that attaches to the bottom seat cushion heater pad includes 4 leads. 2 go to the seat heater elements, and 2 to the thermistor. heater power: brown/black and green/white thermistor: brown/white and black/white The heater is separate from the seat motion controls, and there is also a 2-wire connector that goes to the backrest. I'm attaching a diagram illustrating the circuit. I located the 4pin connector to the bottom seat cushion and pulled it out, and checked resistances. The seat cushion heater elements measure at 2.5Ohms (this would be about 60W heater, seems reasonable) and the thermistor measures 6.8k ohms on an 84F day. Assuming this is a standard 12k NTC thermistor, this indicates about 90-91F. Since the thermistor in this case has not completely failed, it seems like it is not a simple case of the leads failing and I'll have more debugging to find more conclusive results. One next idea is to temporarily bypass the thermistor with a 10-12k resistor. I wouldn't want to do this long term as it could cause problems, but I'll update as I go along. 2005 Cayenne Turbo
  4. Thanks for the tip! Belgium must be better setup for this...Midwest USA isn't as lined up.
  5. TLDR: I'd like to replace my starter. Does anyone still stock the large diameter starters? After getting weaker and weaker and giving me a few push starts, the starter on my 1985.1 944NA has now finally given out. It is a large diameter Bosch starter with the markings 047 911 023A. From what I've read, there have historically between two starter options that fit, an earlier large diameter starter and a later model smaller diameter starter. The later model smaller diameter starters will fit (95160410100), but its increased EMI may cause issues with speed/reference sensors and the replacement bracket to fix this is $125+. In 2012, people were enjoying a third option in Ideola starters, which seems to have gone out of business. However, the current part number seems to return small diameter starters EG, https://www.fcpeuro.com/Porsche-parts/944/?year=1985&m=20&e=803&t=6&b=9&d=&v=12&keywords=starter https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/SR10X?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=frooglePN&utm_term=047911023 If I want to use the newer smaller diameter starter, the updated sender sleeve is $35 (https://parts.porschelivermore.com/oem-parts/porsche-sender-sleeve-94410132000) and it also needs a new bracket that is more expensive. Does anyone still stock the larger diameter starters at an affordable price?
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