rajk

Worked! Thank you again. This is a great service to the Porsche community.

Replacing my rusted out battery tray and don't have radio code for CDR-220. Thank you. Serial: W50 12084 Type: 4462

I also have a '99 with exact same conditions described. When I start the car after a couple weeks the sounds is there. If I use the car consecutive days the sound is much less or not there at all. From all the reading I have done, the IMS chain tensioner is a possible cause and not addressing it can increase wear on the tensioner paddle. I plan to replace this tensioner soon (pn 99610518059).

Would be great to get some more input from forum members on this issue. Keep driving the car or do I tear the engine down to fix the crack / replace the case half? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks. Will keep in mind. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Hi All. I'm a new owner of a 996 3.4 MK1 looking for advice on an unusual problem. I have discovered two small cracks in the engine case where one of the four engine carrier studs sit. The attached pictures shows exactly where the cracks are. I suspect this was caused by a previous owner backing the car into a hard object that lifted the engine and stressed the engine mounting. There is damage evident on the engine bracket and oil pan. If there is some positive here, it is that I see the cracks pointing down & away from the case and hopefully away from the internal coolant passage, and if they get worse, might result in a piece of metal being chipped off the bolt housing. The crack are moving a little bit. I first observed a crack on one side then a second one on the other side. It probably does not help that this car rides very hard (18's, older tires, stiff suspension). I am about to replace the motor mounts soon as the tailpipes are looking a bit low. A local welder can repair the cracks but only on a disassembled case. I have also contacted a 996 specialist and waiting for their opinion. So the question is, if I cannot make a professional fix from the outside, do I have other options? a) try to work in JB weld into the cracks b) try low temp aluminum welding stick - would need to heat the cracked area a lot c) address the motor mounts, try to soften the ride and leave it alone - potentially have the motor supported on only 3 studs. Having irreparable damage to the block from further cracking or the other 3 studs mounting getting stressed is something I want to absolutely avoid - it would be crushing from a financial perspective. This original engine and chassis have less than 50k miles so I had hoped to get a few years of use before tackling a (hopefully) preventive rebuild to address a few items (pin the IMS sprocket to shaft, replace cam chains, replace tensioner paddles & vairocam guides etc). The IMS has been replaced with the IMS Retrofit and the car does not show any signs of bore scoring presently so overall a very healthy car.