berty987

Hi all, I am in the process of trying to write a letter to Porsche AG and Navteq to see if any new MAP updates can be made available for the PCM2.1. Form what I have been able to find out so far, Navteq are held in an agreement by Porsche not to supply their maps directly to Porsche customers. Porsche seem reluctant to commission Navteq to produce any new map updates and so there have been no updates to the maps since 2006 (even the 2007 maps are 2006 date stamped on the software). Considering the map availability affects all porsche models (Cayenne , 997 , Boxster 987 and Cayman) fitted with the PCM 2.1 , I can only assume there is a very large customer base all wanting an update. If you own a 997, 987, or cayenne with PCM2.1 and would be interested in buying a map update please add your name to the list. Hopefully if I can get an idea of the number of people interested it may add weight to the argument. If you feel that you would not specify the navigation or PCM option on a new Porsche as a result of the availability issues with your current system , please vote YES in the third question.

Sounds like you will be buying an M6 coupe next....this has the features you are looking for. :rolleyes:

To get to version 3 software (level B) you will need to first update to level A , then update from A to B. Since your amp is already at 017500 you should not have the same issues Arnie did with his car. The level A update is available from the dealer , the level b update is not sold separately and comes as part of the new map update. You may be lucky and find a forum member with the level B discs that is willing to lend you.

Ok, with you so far , I understand you logic. Keep the car in the lower gear , use the gearing and the higher horsepower to allow you to continue to accelerate at the maximum potential of the engine. So how long much longer will the car be able to keep in the lower gear until the rev limiter is reached in first gear with sport chrono? I have done some calculations based on rolling radius, gear ratios and delivered speed versus calculated , I estimate a Cayman S with 18" wheels , the 60 mph speed is reached in second gear at approximately 6050 rpm. The benefits of the e gas being switched off only become apparent at rpms above 6250 from what i can see of the data , so with a red line limiter at 7200 you are getting a progressive improvment for the last 1000 rpm assuming you change right on the cut off point. So this means that if you were able to judge the timing of the gear change from first to second within the last 1000 rpm of range (whilst accelerating at maximum throttle) you may be able to get an improvment in shift point for horsepower in the second ratio. The actual shift point in terms of RPM and therefore horsepower will be determined by the additional speed you achieved by staying in first gear those last 1000 rpm. I've done some rough calculations admittedly based on constant rather than accelerating speed, but sufficient I think to draw a comparison and test the theory. So , assuming the following : The rear rolling radius of the wheel is 2102.35mm for every revolution The combined gear ratio (with losses) for first gear is 3.308 x 3.875 x 1.03 = 13.203055 @ 6250 rpm = 6250revs/min = 6250x 60 revs per hour = 375000 revs total 375000 revs of the engine equates to 375000 / 13.203055 = 28402.5 revs of the rear axle 28402 revs of the rear axle equates to 28402 x 2.10235 = 59712.03255 metres 59 kmph about 36mph @7200 rpm = 7200 x 60 = 432000 432000 / 13.203055 = 32719.7001 32719.7001 x 2.10235 =68788.2615 metres 68 kmph about 42 mph The gearing in 2nd gear is 1.95 x 3.875 x 1.04 = 7.8585 Taking the figure above 68788.2615 / 2.10235 = 32719.7001 revs 32719.7001 x 7.8585 = 257127.7632 257127.7632 / 60 = 4285.6 rpm (assuming no loss of speed during change ) If we changed at 6250 the figure would be 28402.5 x 7.8585 = 223201.0463 223201.0463 / 60 = 3720 rpm (again assuming no loss of speed during change) Taking these RPM figures to the cayman S engine curve the difference is approximately 30 kW or 40 Hp. So it seems that if you CAN accuratley change up within a few hunderd rpm of the red line , a figure approaching 40 HP advantage is feasable with the sport chrono , though this does assume that if the RPM at which the non chrono car changes gear is 1000 rpm below the chrono option. In reality I think the difference in RPM would be less between the two (therefore speed and HP differential in 2nd gear) , as the losses of the non sport chrono e gas control are gradual above 6250 rpm , so it makes no sense to change at 6250 as an exact point. I also think it unlikely that anyone could change on full throttle at 7200 rpm on a regular basis , it will invariably be before that point. Certainly this relies on lightning quick reflexes or a shift light to get the advantages of this system. If we split the difference and say 20 Hp is regularly achievable then we have a better number to work with. All of this also depends on whether the backing off of the throttle input in normal mode would make a significant reduction in either top speed in 1st gear or time to reach max rpm. Running up to the rev limiter at 7200 is possible with or without sport chrono , the only difference being how long it takes to get there. What this would translate into in terms of repeatable performance gain for a 0-60 dash is still arguable in my opinion. Certainly food for thought and it would be interesting to see a back to back comparison. In summary I agree that holding the gear longer , closer to the red line should yield an accelerative advantage over changing sooner at lower rpms. As to actual 0-60 time improvments of a sport chrono equipped car over standard , this depends on the amount of throttling that takes place in e gas or standard mode as you approach the last 1000 rpm. From what I can see this may make for a more significant difference in the higher gears. Another interesting fact I uncovered whilst doing this research , the 3.2 987S boxster has a longer 1st and 2nd gear than the equivalent 3.4 S cayman , (these two cars have about 15 hp difference) though the rear drive and wheel diameters are the same. Does this suggest that the 0-60 time improvment of the cayman over boxster is a result of gearing rather than the added power ? Perhaps a subject for another discussion....another time.

Yes that looks like the part , thanks Nick.. Not sure if it will also need a ink cable , best to find out. These are universal industry standard so do not need to be bought at Porsche , VW also use optical waveguide systems on newer cars such as the Audi A8 and Phaeton so the parts can be supplied from a local VW dealer here in the UK.

Thought this may have been the case. The MOST loop is designed to connect each device in series and then terminate back at the head unit. By removing the CD changer you have broken the return link back to the head unit and to the next device (the Bose amplifier). There are termination adapters available to allow you to re make the ends from Male to Female plugs to suit the device you are connecting to, but you need to maintain polarity as each device has a twin connection (one in and one out). Possibly the simplest way to fix this problem is to get a single fibre optic cable and terminate both ends into a female plug , then attach this plug in place of the Cd changer to the now free end you have created. I beleive you can buy the fibre optic cable , plugs and adapters freely from either VW or someone like Dension (incar audio). The fibre optic is plastic strands but you do need to make sure its not kinked or crushed and the ends are not made dirty when you terminate them in the plug. The official Porsche route is to replace the current fibre optic cable with one suited for a bose only application , in truth its just a simple cable with a specific termination to allow the head unit to connect directly to the BOSE amp.

I understand the points you are making , but this assumes that the engine does not reach the limit of breathing capacity caused by restrictions in cam lift , intake diameter and fuelling at high rpms. Regardless of the electronic rev limiter , most engines reach their maximum output in Hp below the maximum rev range. Your comments on the sport chrono and published horsepower curves assume that the horsepower would continue to increase right up to the red line , were the electronic throttle control not to reduce the throttle input . I can only assume that you are privvy to either DYNO plots or some other technical resource to substantiate this. From the technical data I have seen , it looks to me like the softening of the throttle occurs after the horsepower curve has started to flatten and decrease. Surely if the horsepower and torque are tailing off beyond a certain point , it is better to change up and make use of the taller gearing of the next ratio to achieve continued acceleration. I may not be a consultant but I do have an engineering background so understand the concepts you refer to. There are a few technical documents in other places of the forum designed for the more technical explanations. I have read all of these in relation to sport chrono function and can find no mention of the maximum horsepower or torque being increased as a result of the system being active. The only vehicles that do benefit from faster 0-60 times as a result of sport chrono are i beleive the 997 gen 2 when fitted in conjunction with PDK. The benefit in 0-60 time being achieved by launch control. I am interested to hear your opinion , and any info you may have relating to the "open loop" potential of the M96 engine. As a new member to the forum you may not be aware of the Porsche technical information available for contributing members. The link below details a more technical explanation of the sport chrono and engine function from the manufacturer. Whilst it is evident you already understand the basis of this technology from your above post , this document may be of interest to you , both on this subject and as reference. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...p;showfile=1364 I believe the key comment in this document is - "The sport chrono function facilitates additional acceleration potential through the use of an abrupt engine speed cut -off by switching off individual cylinders (injection and ignition) in a rotating fashion just shortly before the engine speed limit. The perceptible limit of acceleration lets the driver know if an upshift is executed too late. This allows the driver to learn how to identify the optimum shift point with more accuracy and to make better use of the engines full potential for acceleration" I read this as no additional performance , but a different characteristic that in certain circumstances , such as the track , may be of increased benefit. Coming back to the original post and question of retro fitting the system , I beleive there are many other options open to the owner to improve driving enjoyment, performance or track lap times before going to this costly option. As to performance tweaks , yes these are always going to be of interest to all of us , but I do not see this as particularly cost effective or worth while for the vast majority. Track junkies and budding race car drivers may however see this as worthwhile when other avenues to improvment have been exhausted. In relation to the subject of acceleration and 0-60 times , the sport chrono would only benefit the actual time if the e gas or throttle softening were to be active in second gear with the speed below 60 mph. There will still be a need to change between 1st and second gears. Personally i dont have access to the kind of accurate timing gear needed to substantiate the difference, but to be honest i think the benefits would be within the realms of statistical and driver variability. Please do not take my posts as condecending or being a "know all" , this is not my intention. I am merely expressing an opinion and representing the facts and knowledge that I have researched as an interested individual. After all , that's the point of great forums such as these.

Does your car have the Bose sound package ? Its possible that by removing the Cd changer the MOST fibre optic loop is broken so the amplifier no longer communicates with the main head unit. Another possibility is you shorted out the wiring and the fuse for the radio went too.

If the car was purchased in Europe from a Porsche agent , I would expect a 1 year extended warranty to have been provided at the time of sale. The European warranty is typically two years whereas the North American one is 3 years I beleive. Regarding the software levels of the PCM , the 05024xxx prescribes your vehicle as having level B software , this also matches with the manufacturing year of the car. The DVD navigation system is running the correct MAP DVD for the year and level of navigation software also. I assume that the MAP DVD is genuine and has Harman Becker printed on the outer perimeter of the label and Navteq . A procedure does exist to reset the navigation drive, I would suggest that if ejecting the navigation DVD cleaning the disc with a soft cloth and and using a DVD lens cleaner in the DVD drive does not work , you may want to ask your dealer to try the reset prodcdure first. I see no reason why you need to pay to update the map DVD unless you require a newer map. The map DVD goes into the navigation drive with the label facing upwards, this is another thing to check if you are unfamiliar with this unit. Certainly the MAP date version or PCM software level is not the cause of your problem.

Is the new 2.9 and 3.4 now without intermediate shaft as per the 997 gen2 ? I thought the 3.4 was the same design just having DFI and new heads , is this not the case ? Information seems to be limited on what the face lifted cars motor is actually designed around.

The 017500 amp is also applicable to SW version 1 as my vehicle was at level 1 with this AMP software. The key is whether you are at existing modle or level A. In my case I was at level A with SW 1. The SW version displayed on the header bar can be misleading , it's the PCM and SYSTEM versions that determine if the PCM is running "existing model level" or "level A". You need to transcribe these codes by referencing the TSB's to determine what level of software is being run on the system. The software version displayed on the header bar does not directly translate to a specific model level of software below version 3.

Forgetting the name calling and so on , the Cayman S generates maximum power at 6250 rpm , thereafter the power drops off. The maximum torque is generated between 4300 and 6000 rpm. A higher rev cut out will indeed allow you to stay in gear longer , but if the ratios are properly set , changing at below the rev limiter will still allow the engine to generate maximum torque and be on the gradient of increasing horsepower. Porsche do not comment on the sport chrono function giving any increased performance in terms of available horsepower , they stipulate the function increases the sensitivity of the throttle response. Obviously if a press release stating that the variocam can be adjusted in sport mode releasing more horsepower , than I stand to be corrected. I have a vehicle equipped with this function and have not found any noticeable increase in performance in terms of maximum speed or 0-60 time. It is possible that this system may benefit in cases where the response of the throttle may allow a quicker overtaking manouver and this is where I use the function if required. The PSM also cuts in later when the SPORT mode is selected, since PSM activates braking and adjusts power to prevent skidding this may be of benefit on track in the hands of an experienced driver. There is however also the option on every 987 to turn OFF the PSM completely. In reply to the original post , the benefits of retro fitting this system in terms of true Hp are marginal , if non existent. Good tuition on a track of how to drive the car better will yield quicker and better results. If the car is driven on the road , having the ECU rempaped is probably the quickest and cheapest route to a true performance gain. If you are interested in significant performance gains that can genuinely translate into repeatable 0-60 improvments and top speed , then the costs are significant and the gains diminish as the cost increases. As a guide , the Exhaust and manifolds are a few thousand dollars releasing between 15 and 25 hp , the ECU remap can add another 10 hp. Throttle body mods and cams come next and require the previous mods to to the exhuast and ECU to be in place to get the benefits. Alternatives of superchargers such as the RUF 3400K exist , though these require extensive reworking of the cooling system as well as engine. Engine transplants and rebores to increase cubic capacity are another option , 9FF have a number of tuning programs based on this method. You can spend between a few hundred dollars for an ECU remap giving 10 -20 hp up to tens of thousands for an engine rebuild or supercharger/ turbo conversion giving 400 hp. Having recently attended a track day where all generations of boxsters were present 986S, 987S (3.2) 987S (3.4) and RS60 , with 260 , 280 , 295 303 horsepower it was interesting to see that the quicker cars were always driven by those that had recieved tuition or had more track experience , often the 986S models lapping faster than the 987S , so I stand by my original comment that ability will always outshine power.

I do not beleive so...The durametric is designed to allow the DIY enthusiast to interrogate the OBD (on board diagnostics) its not intended to be a full programming unit. To do this it would require a lot of specific Porsche software for coding of the various modules.

From what I've seen the 19" wheels and tyres do not fair well on track , the outer edges often melting down and having large chunks removed from scrubbing. I would advise avoiding pushing the car into heavy understeer in corners or increasing the tyre pressures to compensate. Certainly I think of track days as the last use of my tyres before replacment , the wear is very biased towards the edges of the tyre. I think 18 " tyres fair better , especially if you can find TOYO or pirelli competition tyres that are road legal like the 888 and Corsa ranges.

As per the PM you sent me and my reply , you press the MAIN and TRIP buttons on the PCM front panel at the same time. This displays a service menu with a software version on the top of the screen. Under the top banner will be displayed the components of your system such as PCM , SYSTEM, AMP , TEL , and NAVIGATION. You may not have all of these options on your car but the PCM SYSTEM and NAV software versions are the most important to understanding your problem. If you use the Right hand rotary knob to select each component and then press the knob to select , it will display a software version. These are the numbers that you need to write down and post back to the forum. After you have collected the information you can return to the normal menu by pressing any of the main menu buttons on the PCM. The service menu does not allow you to change anything, so its perfectly safe to navigate yourself. If you look at one of the other navigation threads on this forum there are posts including pictures of the screen displays you are likely to see.

Cannot say I understand the reasoning behind specifying navigation as a costly option if you don't intend to keep the maps updated. Technology scares some people so I can understand self updating of the PCM and maps may not be something many would want to try. If your pockets are deep enough leave it to the dealer.

I Beleive this only allows interrogation of the modules and resetting of fault codes , I do not think you can code in new items with it.

The pwis is indeed similar to vag-com though the number of available DIY options / emulators is very limited and still quite expensive. To be honest the warning triangle makes no difference to the operation of the unit so the only time you are likely to need the PWIS unit , is to add on or activate devices not currently configured. Post the details of your SYSTEM and PCM software as well as what other modules are configured or send me a PM. I can confirm what updates are required to bring you up to software version 3.

Another budding race car driver looking for those all important tenths off their 0-60 time ? Personally I think these questions on improving an already great car are in the main , pointless. Better to really learn how to drive these cars properly and enjoy the standard handling and performance rather than getting hung up on 10ths of a second to sixty that make no real world difference. Unless you are up to serious competition driving standards and running a stripped out racer these soft tweaks have no effect. If you are lookng for a sharper throttle response you can get the same effect by having the ECU remapped though the driving in traffic becomes more jerky.

The stock CDR radio in the 987 uses a singular antenna for radio reception (mounted in the front windscreen). The PCM uses a diversity antennae set up that selects the strongest signal from one of four antennaes , I believe it also has a booster too. A rod antennae mounted on the front fender/ wing is also available. The basic antenna amplifier sits at the bottom of the windshield cover I beleive.

Audiopilot relies on a microphone in the steering column shroud to feedback the background noise inside the cabin. The Idea is that the volume and bass patterns are adjusted dynamically according to whether the hood is up or down. The micropgone feeds back directly into the bose amplifier. There are settings for the audiopliot that can be adjusted in the PCM menu, you need to try a few different configurations before finding what works best for you. I believe there is a configuration menu for the CDR units acessed by pressing certain buttons , otherwise its a trip to the local porsche dealer.

The navigation system requires a cradle to hold the DVD unit, there is also a fibre optic cable to connect to the rear of the PCM 2.1 , then you will also need a wiring harness to connect the PCM 2.1 "wake up" signal to the rear of the DVD drive and the power and earth connections , plus a GPS reciever and cable. Finally you will need the map DVD. Depending on the model year of your car you may also need to update the PCM unit itself to run the latest map DVD. The DVD drive must be matched to the hardware level of your PCM and vehicle model type to work properly. Porsche can supply a complete kit with all the hardware required to install the DVD navigation unit , but you still need the Porsche workshop to enable or code the PCM to work with navigation unit. If you are not familiar with auto electrics or the navigation units , its best to order the kit and have it installed by someone else. Buying parts from e bay is only worthwhile if you know what to buy and are sure that the item is fully compatable and working. Personally I would save money on buying a Cd changer and get a dension unit instead. This takes the place of the Cd changer and allows MP3 files to be played via USB stick or i pod. The PCM sees the dension unit as if it were a CD changer though the amount of music available is about 100 fold more. The Dension can also be expanded to allow pairing with a phone via bluetooth allowing the PCM to act as the Host.

Check the versions for PCM and SYSTEM too , the triangle next to the amplifier may indicate the amplifier has been replaced with a newer version. The only definitive way to know what updates are required is to check the software versions for the PCM and SYSTEM. If your unit is at level A it should only require the update to level B and a newer 2005 or later MAP DVD to reach software level 3. If you plan to update to level 3 is is essential that you have a 2005 or later MAP DVD available after the update as the 2004 maps are no longer compatable and cause overheating or lock ups of the PCM 2.1. The Dension product is compatable with earlier PCM 2.1 units running level A or "existing model " ie version 1 and version 2 software , as AP997S car had a dension installed before the update to level A I beleive.

Phew, must be a relief now its all done ! The version 2.1 software was a result of updating to level A I assume ? Interestingly this seems to be a software level beyond most factory fit level A PCM.s. Yours is the first PCM I've seen with PCM software 04202LD1 / 1705 and 2.1 software. The System software mirrors that which I had in my car originally with level A version 1 software (04202JD1/3004). I think we can now conclude that the software version displayed at the top of the screen on the banner line relates to the PCM rather than SYS element of the unit. It is also proven that the software update for these units is identical for both Europe and the USA . The only difference I can see is that the navigation software level is 00179436 compared to 00174436 for Europe. The last four digits after the stroke relate to calender week and year of the map release. your map being week 33 2006 and the European latest map being week 29 2006. Thanks for sharing this info on the Forum , a great thread. One last request, can you take a picture of your PCM showing the whole unit as I think you commented earlier it has some subtle differences to the later PCM 2.1 units. Thanks

Great news Arnie !!. Seems like every cloud has a silver lining, I'd suggest if you asked the dealer to do the update straight off, they may well have spotted the amp needed replacement and asked you to contribute up front. Though it's been a lot of headaches it seems you came out on top with a new AMP F.O.C. I assume you are now at level A software and ready to update to level B , thus allowing you to run the later maps of 2005 to 2007. The level A to level B should now roll through smoothly bringing you up to software version 3 which is as far as the early non MP3 PCM 2.1 units can go. Will you be doing this update yourself or returning to the dealer ? Pleased it has all worked out for you, thanks for sharing your experiences , I realise it must be difficult to write them down when it seems the world is falling around you and its all gone horribly wrong.