berty987

The 987 and 997 use the same rear DME , the DME switches to earth on pin C14 and D17, so the PSE needs to have a live feed to one side of the solenoid and connected to the DME (ground) on the other. I used the 997 and 987 PSE install instructions to determine which pins needed to be connected. It depends on the model year of your car as to which pin is used , C14 if its 2005 and D17 if its 2006 or later. I believe the differences are around whether the PSE control wiring is present in the engine bay (ie brown plug that connects to the PSE solenoid is pre wired back to D17 on the DME) The dashboard switch for PSE activation comes either from the sport button (if sport chrono is already fitted) or from a separate PSE button for which you need a mini wiring loom and new switch panel with the button . In either case the input to activate the PSE goes into chamber D6 on the DME plug. This input in turn activates an internal relay which switches either C14 or D17 to ground so making the PSE active or inactive. C14 and D17 are automatically switched by internal logic between 30 and 40 mph so the PSE becomes "quiet" to satisfy european noise regulations. A10 and A11 are the switch panel. One side of the switch is the input to the DME ( a pulsed input from the switch, the DME does the latching control of the output C14/D17 ) the other is the LED that illuminates when the button is active. As a result there is no way to replicate the switch control into the DME using a simple latching switch , you have to bypass the DME control and install a dedicated 12V circuit , direct to the PSE solenoid. If you dont have sport chrono (or the PSE mini loom and new switch panel) you need to find a switched live supply to feed the PSE solenoid and fit a simple pushbutton to activate it. If you do not use a switched 12v supply (most of the wiring loom is actually permanent 12v on the 997/987) then you run the risk of flatenning the battery if you leave the PSE switch depressed (ie in quiet mode) as the solenoid constantly draws power. If you subscribe to the forum (become a contributor) you get access to all the tech bulletins including the one for the 997 PSE install. The install on planet 9 you refer to was written by myself . The picture of the grey plug is not the C plug , its just for reference only , hence C14 is populated in the pic. Sorry for any confusion

If you look at the parts catalogue , the differences appear only to be on the rear silencers , though I have heard stories of people having the RS60 ECU setting put in a 3.4 to give 303 versus the standard 295 hp. The boxster and cayman "sport" models with aerokits etc had the same bhp figures. On the newer dfi cars, I,m not sure where the parts are different or if its done in the ECU alone.

I fitted the PSE to my 2005 987 S. You will need a new switch module with the PSE button and some time with a local porsche agent or specialist that has a full PWIS. Porsche sell the wiring kit as a spare part that connects the front switch module to the rear DME. The wiring may already be in place for the PSE solenoid under the engine cover, this was certainly the case in the later gen 1cars. As an alternative you can fit a simple push button switch with a 12V switched supply , thereby bypassing the porsche "nanny" logic that makes the exhaust quiet between 30 and 40 mph. I made up a mini loom for my own car as a bypass for the PSE control to allow the PSE to be switched independently. I made a bracket to mount the switch in the ashtay compartment after initially installing a pushbutton under the handbrake. If you fit your own switch you can wire it direct to the actuation solenoid thereby negating the need for any porsche involvement or re coding.

Michelin Pilot now updated to PS3. Make sure the tyres are N rated for porsche whichever brand you opt for. Yokohama, Pirelli, Continental and Good Year also offer tyres in boxster sizes.

When you remove the multi function buttons you may want to consider advertising them on e bay or the for sale section. Regarding the steering wheel there are options from techart that re use the existing airbag so the porsche badge and OEM look is retained. Otherwise there are a number of vehicle retrimmers that can re profile your existing wheel to make it thicker. Often XPA (extra padded wheel) come up on e bay from dealers that sell off old porsche stock. There is a thread running on planet 9 about a retrimmed wheel at the moment. The cayman and 997 share the same parts for steering wheels so this does apply. http://www.planet-9.com/cayman-boxster-modifications/50733-new-steering-wheel.html

The steering wheel will need recoding after upgrade so it needs either a dealer or indepenent with PWIS equipment to do it. You can fit the wheel yourself but would need to drive on the lever rather than buttons / paddles until it was recoded. it can also be fitted to the earlier tiptronic 997 on the gen 1 by the way. I've seen a cayman tiptronic with a PDK paddle shift wheel. This also requires a new steering wheel electronics module and airbag for the wheel , so its not a cheap option. Try contacting suncoast they sell the parts and have all the details of whats involved.

Im getting the NavTV Tookipor bluetooth hands free module and the ipod module fitted to my PCM next week. Will let you know what i think. Graham Dension, NavTV, and mobridge all offer interfaces for your car that will connect i pod or MP3 devices.

Hi Sebastien, I suggest you look on www.boxa.net under the incar electronics section or www.planet-9.com under the audio or featured articles. Connecting the BOSE amp to any unit other than the original PCM is very difficult and very expensive as there is only one company that offers a kit and it talkes a long time to install. It is easier to remove the amplifier and speakers as well as the PCM unit and fit a complete new system. There are many articles on both the above forums that show how this can be done.

A quick scan through the porsche PET parts catlalogue and it soon becomes apparent that a number of components have undergone revisions and redesign. IMHO It will always be better to have the last generation of any model , because the majority of the issues have been designed out. The IMS bearing is thought to fail as a result of a weak seal , allowing the engine oil to wash out the origiinal and effective lubricant and replace it with oil. As a result , the trapped engine oil in the bearing isnt as effective at protecting the bearing from overheating and wear will eventiually start to increase. In those cases where the seal fails significantly or the engine is run at high rpms allowing oil splash to force new oil past the seal, the wear seems to be less and eventually the seal passes so much oil that a good turn over is achieved. As a result of this theory , many engine builders now advocate removing the original seal all together even on new rebuilds. This may be a preventive course of action for existing M97 engine owners as it can be done without stripping the engine , but does require the gearbox and flywheel to be removed. The M97 engine has a larger IMS bearing support hence the larger bearing so half of the issues should already be addressed.

Its probably worth casting your eye over the parts catalogue at the X51 powerkit and how the parts differ to stock. You will notice the cams are different and the exhaust valves are bigger on the X51 kit , along with different headers. I dont think Porsche would invest in new heads if it wasnt required , so I would suggest though the inlet filter may help , its probably only a very small part of the modifications required to improving performance. A recent porsche magazine article suggested that the X51 powerkit induction kit actually isnt optimised and can be improved upon with an aftermarket kit , though you need to have the manifolds (headers) ECU remap and revised heads already in place to exploit this modification. Since most Bhp improvment claims are made as a result of a rolling road measurement , its worth mentioning that the Bhp figures claimed on a rolling road are always lower than actual , as the ram air effect of the cars movement cannot be replicated when stationary. As a result , the air filter being replaced or de snorkelled gives a false sense of BHP improvement as the Bhp figure claimed by the performance filter is probably very similar with the standard element when there is a ram air efect. Ultimately in many cases its not the filter but the throttle body, exhaust valve or cam timing that is providing the restriction in the engine breathing. If you take the arguement to the extreme , with no filter , the engine can actually end up running lean , which causes it to overheat . In most cases the overfuelling and lambda sensors adjust the timing to protect the engine from these scenarios , though supplying too much air is in effect a waste , as its always as a result of poorer filtration and at the risk of contaminating the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF). The standard paper element is pleated so its overall surface area is much larger than the oiled performance one, as a result it takes longer for the entire element to become dirty so the performance or pressure drop across the filter stays consistent for longer. Conversely an oiled element has a smaller area so the gains drop off quicker as the element becomes blocked due to a smaller surface area. Performance filters have their place on track cars when they can be cleaned and replaced regularly and the engine is already modified in terms of exhaust , inlet , cam and timing. For road cars the beneifts are a different induction sound and a slightly quicker throttle response , though higher maintenance is required to ensure these gains are sustained.

The short line probably intended to connect the new PSE solenoid to the existing variocam solenoid so they can share the same take off point for vacuum. Therefore you have 2 braided lines , and two black tube sections.

The telematics module for the phone sits in the passenger footwell behind the side kickplate. With a PWIS unit it should be possible to simply switch off the modul by removing it from the PCM options list.

One vacuum line goes to each valve on the left and right silencer , these then connect into a Y shaped rubber piece which then goes back to the solenoid valve. The other side of the solenoid valve goes to the inlet manifold vacuum point take off , on some cars this involves another Y piece connected after the take off point , to allow the variocam plus solenoid and the PSE solenoid to share the same vacuum point. On my own car I also fitted a simple switch in series with hte solenoid actuation wiring to allow the PSE to be controlled independently of the car ECU. The benefits are the PSE doesnt go quiet at certain speeds and can be left operational all the time without the need to activate , every time the car is started.

There is an XM satellite radio option for the cayenne that can be fitted to the 997. As to bluetooth kits you need to find one thats compatable with the PCM and MOST fibreoptics. Dension is probably the best add on unit for PCM systems if you want to use anything other than an i phone (otherwise use mobridge) or want MP3 playback using a USB stick or i pod. Mobridge hardware works well with ipods and i phones but doesnt allow for USB connectivity and playback like the dension.

Assuming you fitted a nav module and GPS puck and the puck is in a good location , the way it should work is the navi itself uses gyros most of the time and the GPS signal to correlate / adjust every few minutes. There are different versions of the navi module for 4wd cars so its important the correct nav is installewd and in the correct orientation (vertical versus horizontal). The navi and PCM talk to each other and should be matched in terms of software and hardware. If you know the part number of the navi module and the current software levels of the PCM (press main and trip together) then its possible to establish if everything is matched or needs updating.

The 997 and 987 (boxster/ cayman) share the same wiring for the PCM and front end. There is a good write up on both www.boxa.net and www.caymanclub.net on fitting after market head units and alternatives to the BOSE amp and PCM/CDR units..

The PCM 2.1 "existing model level" software pre dates Level A and Level B versions. From the description of the post, it sounds like the unit in question is an "existing model level" version . There is little or no benefit to updating the PCM 2.1 unless a navigation drive is also included in the install. The Unit can be updated to Level B software via update CD's . First step is to update to level A , then to Level B. It should also be noted that after updating to level B , a new navigation DVD will be required , that is dated 2005 or later. In order to use the very latest navigation DVD (release 2009) a navigation DVD drive update is also required after the PCM has been updated to level B. If the car is also equipped with BOSE , the TSB should be read closely as updating the PCM may require additional operations in updating the Bose amplifier or in some cases replacing the amp completely. If the correct procedures are not followed the amp can end up wrecked or worse still the PCM software corrupted. There is no exchange or repair service offered for either the PCM or Amp. The model level B software has differing revisions but only the very earliest ( version 3) is supported by the earlier PCM units that have been updated. Check with your bluetooth suplier that the software will work on this level. If the PCM doesnt originally have a phone application as an option the bluetooth add on may not work as these often fool the PCM into using the original software to interface with the add on hardware. Since your PCM isnt equipped with phone prep or sim card the software update to level B may not install the software that allows control of the bluetooth module. Ideally you need to ask the supplier or find someone else thats updated an early PCM. As to costs the map update is approx 350 Uk pounds (about 500 USD ?) , which iincludes the level B and navigation update CD's. If you also require the level A update an extra disc must be purchased but this is only a few pounds (dollars). Assuming you dont have BOSE and terefore any issues with the amp the only other costs are about 2 hours labour to perform the update and check everything runs correctly. If the map need updating or replacing this could be at best one hours labour and a few dollars for an update CD ranging to a few hours plus a thousand or so for a new AMP.

The fitting of the dension depends on a number of things : 1. is the dension unit the later Dual FOT (ie does it allow the existing CD cahnger to be be retained) 2. Do you have navigation or BOSE fitted If you are unsure the installation manual can be downloaded from the dension web site. The cable you have can be dismantled to allow you to reconfigure it for all options. Just make sure you keep the integrity of the loop direction. Each device ( CD , Dension, NAV) has an IN and an OUT port , the cable needs to be correctly configured for the previous and next device in the loop ie out from one device corresponds with hte IN for the following etc..

The 986 has a different air intake system to the 987. It was one of the main improvements on the 987 to increase the air flow into the engine and provide a larger filter media area , thus allowing longer service intervals. Since the 987 3.2 and 3.4 engines both share the same intake and filter system , Id suggest that the air flow as built doesn't restrict power on the 3.2 or 2.7 engined cars. Performance improvements can however be achieved by using the 996 throttle body and remapped software from softronic, this doesn't require a hi flow filter or de snorkel to achieve gains though can be further complemented by fitting a free flow exhaust. It probably works out cheaper and with gains that can be sustained if you simply replace the standard filter more regularly than 20 k miles. The snorkel also acts as a flow straightener for the air preventing whats known as turbulent flow. Turbulent flow in the air can create problems with the measurement at the MAF , possibly this is contributing to the poor MPG , though more likely its to do with the original engine map being set for a different air flow characteristic.

you will need to loosen the top and bottom connectors that link the two rear silencers together. The silencers are in turn held in place with a support bracket to the rear body of the car. If you can slacken off the bolts to fit the RS 60 tips without the need to touch the manifold bolts further up it will save a lot of hassle. Just be careful not to stress the bolts and gasket on the manifold , so support the rear silencers once disconnected. Slide the sleeves (top and bottom connectors) fully over to one silencer before locating both silenecres on the supports.

With the price of a new shift knob at over 700 uk pounds , about 1200 USD I think I would ask porsche directly on how to remove it.

Yes I can see where you are relating to now, agree the headlight fuse appears the same rating , though the front headlights are not powered from the control unit , they have a separate supply (pin A26 and A3) that loops through it. Looking more closely , the supply appears to be the same for both halogen and bi xenon ,suggesting the fuse rating is the same (70a in F3 and F8 of the current distributor) , only the control unit itself is different for a xenon equipped car as it includes the power and control for the self levelling (which is powered from the control unit). If bi xenon lights are installed , then by nature of the self levelling and motorised flap for hi beam , the return ground cable from the headlight is 2.5 rather than 1.5 (for halogens) for the low beam circuit. It was probaly the ground side wiring that created my confusion initially, assuming the power side would also be upgraded. Fitting a different fuse does not seem necessary for a control unit change , though when a bi xenon headlight is fitted , the wiring will require upgrading on the ground side. If non OEM xenon ballasts and bulbs are fitted (without self levelling etc) I'd suggest that selection of the kit is critical to avoid bulb errors on the can bus though the fuses do not appear to need upgrading , since they are already at 70A and increasing them would also put the wiring at risk.

The wiring diagrams I saw seemed to indicate the live side of the headlight circuit came from the fuse box , the ground side is the switching side which is the control unit. A different fuse location is indicated for the halogen versus bi xenon headlight for low beam. I stand to be corrected if this isnt the case.

The fuse is installed to protect the wiring from overheating which can lead to short circuits or in worst cases a fire. Would not advise simply changing the fuse unless you know for sure the wiring can take the extra load you plan on putting through it. The OEM xenon headlights use the next gauge size up in wire from the standard halogens. Though the wattage of the bulbs is less for xenon units they have a completely different power useage to halogens as they need most of their power at start up.

There are two sirens fitted to cars built for the netherlands and UK with I 536 spec. One is the standard metal horn which is the only alarm siren on USA and ROW cars, the second is a black plastic battery backed siren for the UK / Netherlands spec cars. The Plastic siren sits to the left of the battery as you stand in front of the car. Its links to the other additional device on I 536 spec cars , the tilt sensor , which resides under the center console inside the car , below the heater controls etc. For cars fitted with this additional security the metal horn only sounds as a single beep when the doors or forn/ rear lids are not closed properly and the alarm is activated. The black plastic battery backed siren does the job of alerting a would be intruder.