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Check your radiators like you planned. check your water pump, see if there is seepage. you can remove the serpentine belt and see if it turns freely. lastly, it could be your thermostat sticking. mike
In my case the bolt fell down and backwards into the hole, then managed to roll forward into the webbing of the engine -- it was in the first webbing just below the hole if you can find a picture of the engine -- you might be able to try there -- not as tight quarters as trying to get down to the IMS. I think it was along side the clutch, not behind it... but its been 4-5 years -- so I maybe mis-remembering. In my case it was a royal PITA since I did my CPS in the driveway -- only to F it up -- and then had to trailer it to my buddy's shop to get it on the lift. I never started it or even attempted to start it while it was in there.
I don’t have the picture that showed exactly where the bolt rolled to ... it’s in the other phone you can see in the first picture ? but it you can see an example of the webbing it fell into. so if you can get you magnet to go into the whole and then bend forward and check those crevices... you might have a chance.. you might consider borrowing a boroscope and see if you can locate it. otherwise, my recommendation is to drop the tranny, which is what I ended up doing. Murphy has never been a friend of mine when it comes to mechanical stuff... so I was pretty sure how all that was going to end up if I had left it there. mike
Oh, I fished for that **** thing for a LONG time with a magnet -- to no avail. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news -- but I don't think there is an opening in the bottom, so once its in there -- I don't think its coming out (and that's not a good thing). I think I have some pics on my phone -- maybe if you can see the possible locations -- you might be able to fish more productively. M
I don’t know on a TIP if the same hole exists, but on a manual just below the cps is an access whole to the flywheel/clutch assembly. I dropped the cps bolt and lost it too. I ended up dis assembling the entire back end and removed the Tranny to find the bolt had roles back onto a ledge on the engine block. it was just waiting to play pachinko with my flywheel. turned a 15min job into a 2 day nightmare. DYI tip, reach in there, feel for the hole and stuff a shop towel in there, so when your mag and tape plan fails, the bolt can’t find the hidey hole. mike
Water pumps are a wink leak, in particular the bearing. unfortunately folks see chipped plastic impellers and think the plastic impeller is the problem. replaced with steel, bearings fail, and the steel impeller damages the block
What does software voltage pin on the obdii control? if I assert a voltage on that pin will it change the mode of the DME?
The rain, the battery running down, battery cables, kill switches, fuses, relays, DME, Immobilizer, Key RFID, etc None of that had anything to do with it Shortly after I bought the car I installed a traqmate system, including a traqmate USB to control the cameras and data acquisition. That system had been in the car for nearly a year prior including 2 or 3 event weekends with no symptoms whatsoever. There was a pin on the traqmate usb labeled 5v with the input analog pins. The documentation. Is poor, so I hooked up 5v off the obdii port after having found you can get 5v off of there (I don't remember how that was determined, probably internet) I eventually had to buy a street car to have a known good reference. She showed up late last week and was keen to success. After checking things back and forth between the street car and the Spec Boxster, including triple checking the DME. I decided some input to the DME must be wrong and is causing the DME not to let the car start. So I wrote out all 88 pins and made a chart and one by one probed each signal in the street car, and then did the same in the spec boxster. After probing all the signals between the street car and spb I noticed only a couple differences, one was the software voltage pin which only connects to the obdii port. Street car was 0v, spb 5v. Also the durametric could talk to both dmes, but on the spb, all live data was defaults and voltage was 0v, regardless of the DME, while on the street car with both DMEs I got live data. I went home and thought about where the 5v could have come from, and I remembered the traqmate usb had a 5v pin. I also remember sourcing that 5v from the OBDII connector as that is what I had found online to do. My spidy senses were tingling -- was I on to something? About midnight last night, I found some documentation online on the old traqmate system. It wasn't very good, but I could see a photo of the pins labeled on the USB box and blew up the picture. , It wasn't clear, but it looked like 5v was an output Not an input!!! I had figured at the time that the 5v was needed for the analog data acquisition, not the other way around. Surely it couldn't be that simple. After a sleepless night I ran out to the shop this morning, unconnected the traqmate usb And she fired right up Motherf@cker!!! I think the 5v put the dme into some sort of program mode or something, disabling its ability to start the car. Why did jumping it work without battery? I think once you got 14v, the 5v wasn't high enough to put it in the program mode... I also think that once you get running, the DME just does its thing -- OR, the Boxster's alternator put out 14v, and once again the 5v input was read as a low, not an assert. Further complicating the matter was the small fuse box that was added for accessories that I had tapped off of for the traqmate 12v hookup is janky, and I don't think it has a good internal connection. That's getting yanked and a new, and more accessible unit will be installed. Just diabolical.... Now I have to put it all back together and get my medical done and sign up for NOLA. Thank you very much to all who supported my efforts and responded to my posts -- especially Ahsai. If nothing else, the moral support allowed me to just keep plodding along.
Yes grid E188 exists in MY2000, but contextually it doesn't make sense, it's the pin 86 on same relay Re/Bl, not the pin 30 Yellow -- So I don't think that is it. Ironically there is an E188 connection as well, but it is the wrong wire to the same Relay (Re/Bl pin 86). Additionally, the page 19 schematic is wrong -- as it shows K48 connecting a Re/Bl wire to Start Lock, which is actually K158. (looks like the connections are transposed) On the MY99, in context -- the signal doesn't have the a split connection on the pin 50, Yellow wire seen on 1999 to E188. I'm wondering if that is also a schematics error on MY1999. Mike