CJ_Boxster

Hi have had mine disconnected for 2 days and done about 20kms, as its obviously shot the car goes like a rocket, it doesnt want to run well first strat of the day but runs fine by the end of the driveway.

What it does now is, rev freely without hestitation, changes geras (tiptronic) when you hold the accelerator against the floor, the cruise control stops cutting out.

I too was wondering if leaving it disconnected (as opposed to removed) would be an isue, as runs well I can only speculate that its OK, as I assume all that would happen is that the enine would run to lean or rich as I assume the MAF has influnece over mixture and I suppose timing.

Leaving it out would bypass the air filter which is potentially dangerous sucking in foreign objects.

I'm only a bush mechanic (meaning a DIYer) so treat the above with caution, maybe an expert can comment.

MY issue is that I need to order from the USA as its under half price so I will probably reconnect to play safe

I see, By no means would i bypass the airfilter, I removed the sensor today and cleaned the area around the gapping hole and tapped it up so its got a air tight temporary seal. Its running quite well without LOL i guess my mas was really wakky

Good deal, Ill knock off my MAS on monday and hope to get it tuesday.

It should be, I already drove the car once in the past with it disconnected to diagnose an issue with the MAS, I was given that advice awhile back on the forum, so i already know the car will run better with it unpluged if the MAS is faulty. My question is, How long could i drive it like that. I plan on unpluging it and removing it and plugging the mounting hole until i get the New MAS the next day.

Reason im asking this question is cause the mechanic that replaced my MAS months ago is replacing it again but for free. He wants me to drop off the sensor and wait till the end o the day for the new one to arrive. Anyone know how many miles i could drive with the MAS unplugged?

BTW the boxster is my only car and i dont wanna miss work cause the car is sitting at the shop waiting for a new MAS to be delivered the same day.

I would go with dutch treat in gardena, they are less expensive and just as good as the dealer is.

Loren Thanks for your help, I replaced the o2 Sensor yesterday and all alot of the missing HP came back and im already noticing that my mileage is increasing, I drove the car atleast 20 miles and spirited too and the fuel gauge needle moved about a millimeter. Literally, the needle was touching the higher edge of the 1/4 mark on the gauge after the install of the new O2 sensor and after the spirited driving i did afterwards and the drive to work this morning... It now touching the lower edge of the 1/4 mark.

BTW, i have 104k miles on my boxster and when i replaced the 1 bad o2 sensor, i did not get the cel for the other 3 o2 sensors like some forum members experienced.

Very nice!

How many are in a "set"?

Do you believe that they will be as strong as the old ones? When the bushings wear out, can the bushings be replaced indpendent of the actual arms?

-S

P.S. Do they come in Ocean Blue? :P (Just joking)

A set comes with 2 arms, one for each side of the rear. I dont know if they are stronger than stock and i assume you can replace the worn bearing cartridge by unscrewing it from the arm... Send a message to the vendor, im sure he could send you spare bearing cartidges for them for extra money.

Heres what the finished product looks like... :clapping: :notworthy:

Boy are you all lucky, I have a buddy on another forum that has fabricated some adjustible rear control arms, guess how much for a SET.... $269!!!!!!

go here for more info VVV.

http://986forum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=...p;postcount=162

Seems easy but disconnecting the Seat belt wires momentarily will probably cause the Airbag light to come on and you'll need to pay some big bucks just to turn it back off.

Sorry people, I could not find the time to try and resolve this issue today on saturday, The racks at the shop were full BUT on tuesday i will be going to the shop to attempt to repair the trailing control arm. Ill keep you updated on the progress i make on tuesday.

Sorry people, I could not find the time to try and resolve this issue today on saturday, The racks at the shop were full BUT on tuesday i will be going to the shop to attempt to repair the trailing control arm. Ill keep you updated on the progress i make on tuesday.

I would consult a Porsche race shop... preferibly a shop that has there own race car.

And if it were up to me, i would allow you to swap out my non-PSM system for your PSM system. We both live in Los Angeles.... ;-)

DJ, Hopefully you didnt order the AOS yet, i called the dealer again, they said that the Part Number 996.107.023.03 has already been superseided with a new part number meaning theres been another update, the new part number is 996.107.023.04

Hey guys, This is just so people interested in my progress dont have to wait here for my reply, Ill got word from my father yesterday that I will have access to the hydralic press on Saturday, Saturday i will take pictures of what we did and write out how we did it. So till saturday!

Probably Suncoast, make sure your getting the one thats got the updated design.

Old part number is 996.107.023.02

New part number is 996.107.023.03

To replace the separator, you need to remove the hose(s) from the top, then the two mounting bolts down the side (I think they have 10mm heads). On the bottom of the separator, there is a squeeze clamp. Use some pliers to squeeze and remove the clamp. Don't reuse the spring clamp.

When you put the new separator on, put the bottom on first and use a new stainless steel screw down clamp. There is a TSB that suggests replacing the squeeze clamps with screw down types as you do maintenance and remove the old clamps. They can weeken after being removed and cause leaks. Tighten the clamp down so it stays attached, but leave it loose enough so it can rotate. Put the two mounting bolts in and finger tighten them to hold it in place. Connect the hose(s) to the separator, then tighten the mounting bolts and clamp on the bottom of the separator.

If you have the time, you should replace the "J" hose that goes in the top of the separator. There is a TSB recommending it since the accordian folds can eventually crack and cause vacuum leaks.

Ok then, Well It seems to be a 50% chance of it working, I like those odds HA. Ill see if I can give it a try today after i leave the shop thats replacing my MAF. I will definatly post my results and anything i did and did differently.

The pictures are very informative, Would it be neccesary for me to remove the bearing? couldnt i just remove the rubber boots and use a dye to press the crimp?

absolutely do NOT remove the bearing. you'll never get it back in with the crimp in tact. the loose bearing in the photo was removed from a bent control arm to see if there were any part numbers on it that may lead us to a replacement supplier.

GOOOOOD! Ok so just to recap, In the area I specified and drew lines in your picture... Thats where the crimp is and needs to be pressed.

and I do not need to remove the bearing... only reason you removed it was cause your control arm was bent.

I think thats all i needed to recap..

Hey Insite, is the still noisey control arm the one you pressed the bearing out then back in? If so, do you think if you didnt remove the bearing and just pressed the crimp down tighter that you would not have any noise outta that control arm?

The pictures are very informative, Would it be neccesary for me to remove the bearing? couldnt i just remove the rubber boots and use a dye to press the crimp?

Get it towed (flatbed by someone who knows how to flatbed a Porsche) and don't drive it. Page 231 Owner's Manual

Blinking CEL said stop right now. Page 79 Owner's Manual

You have serious troubles and you need a serious Porsche mechanic.

Maybe spend some time reading any warranty you got with the car as a car lasting 3 hours sounds kind of suspicious.

Thanks, Mikefocke. We did have it properly flatbedded. As for warranties....bought it AS-IS. A serious Porsche shop gave an over-the-phone suggestion that it's a catalytic converter problem. Anyway, we look forward to getting this car running again and truly enjoying it. Thanks again.

If its AS-IS, you still have the standard 30 days after the purchase that covers mechanical issues.

I called my Father who works front desk at a mechanic shop. He says they have a Hydrolic press for things like this. insite, would you think that if you have an industrial type press that you would have 2 non-rattling control arms rather than 1 working and 1 not working?

He said that if i get him some control arm removal directions for the mechanic that he can give the arm a go on the press.... If i do this, Would the area in the picture below be the area that should be pressed down or further out or more inward?

What part of the metal are you crimping in that last picture? ^^^ draw an arrow around it.

Ahh i see, Up and down, I would have thought side to side but up and down would make more noise... Hey, would you say that the Nylon is wearing or would it be a combination of the metal ball and the nylon?

If anyone here new anything about nylon molding or knows of someone that can make a remake of a new nylon sleeve using a new nylon sleeve as a template, we could all save hundreds of dollars!!!

I just called TRW and they say they dont have any aftermarket listings for Porsche boxster, No bearing cartridge at all.

i replaced some bearings in the pulleys on my engine from a shop that specialise in just bearings if i had all the measurements or the bearing the self i should be able to get them i to have a knocking noise from the suspension i will look at mine and see if i can get the bearing.

i also have a random knock which i thought were the wire ties that hold down the roof. my noise comes from the left rear

98 boxster UK

Please do! It would mean alot to us all!!!! Usually the rear control arm rattle is worse on hotter days, and makes lost of noise at low speeds over cracks and bumps in the road... hopefully thats what your expierencing and the Shop you take your car to will locate the bearing for the application!!!!!!

it's not a normal looking bearing; here's a pic of the cartridge:

So is the rattling due to that white nylon jacket wearing thin around the ball?

Why did this happen.

Currently i have a CEL MAF code and had gotten a P1115 but that hasnt come back in a week after I cleared the code.

I do have an oil leak on the rear passenger side of the engine.

Since yesterday or the day before, my throttle response has been alittle slow and my acceleration has been alittle weaker than im used to in these past 3 days...

Any ideas? or anyone experience this same issue and solved it?