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CJ_Boxster

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About CJ_Boxster

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 09/11/1982

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    cj_cj_jr@yahoo.com
  • Website URL
    http://facebook.com/carlosjcazares
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Los Angeles, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1997 Porsche Boxster (Ocean Blue)

Recent Profile Visitors

1,751 profile views
  1. Its possible you need both front and rear track arms but I cant say for certain, there are a few things (upper shock mount, sway bar links, brake pads missing tension spring) that can cause the same or similar "chatter". Your best bet is to take your boxster to an experienced mechanic cause at this point I'd be guessing.
  2. Sorry fellas, the economy hit me hard, no more porsche since 09

  3. Mice DIY, love to see you so a wishbone and lower training arm

  4. Car is looking good...

    I like that color!!

  5. Good catch. You will need an impact driver to tighten it properly. It's suppose to be super f'n tight. It's also a safety hazard if they aren't tight enough, plus if it slides again if you hit a hard enough bump the plate will slide and scratch your door jam.
  6. Well since you are running Rcomp tires your hitting way higher G-s than the factory Oil Sep. can handle, On 997's i believe its on the drivers side of the engine and when you make hard rights, All the oil in the crankcase is moved to the left and im positive that causes an updraft of oil to shoot back up the bellows tube and saturate the oil sep and some oil makes it to the intake manifold via the upper oil sep tube. If only there was a breathible foam insert that can go into the upper tube to stop the flow of oil but not the air.
  7. Its easy, youll need a some masking tape, hammer and manual impact driver with a bit that fits the 2 screws that hold the latch bar to the body, loosen them alittle, just enough to slide it inward to the vehicle the exact distance in question depending on your specific needs. place masking tape near 3 edges of the latch bar on the body of the car. i recommend tape on both top and bottom and the last on the outside facing edge of the latch bar. To use an Impact driver: place bit in the impact driver and then place the impact driver on the screw that holds the latch bar and twist the impact wrench counter clockwise 1/4 turn while on the screw, hold that tension and slam the back of the impact driver with a heavy hammer, reset your hand on the impact driver, twist counter clockwise again and hit it again until the screws move, and then twist them out 2-3 turns or enough to slide the latch bar around but snug enough to hold the latch in place while your not holding it. once you've got it where you want it, first tighten screws manually then place the impact driver on the latch bar screws, twist Clockwise now and hit the back of the impact driver with the hammer to tighten it, usually 2-3 hard slams does the job.
  8. It takes me about 8 hours for a C2 clutch change, not counting the time i take to replace all the old grease on the transmission input shaft and clutch fork pivot and removal of the flywheel to inspect for IMS and RMS oil leaks, It definatly will not be all said and done in 7 hours for someone who 1) has never done it before 2) for someone who has never done a clutch job 3) someone who has only a 55 peice ratchet set 4) for someone who has no vehicle lift 5) for someone who doesnt have a engine jack 6) for someone who doesnt have a transmission jack. Luckily for me, I have all the right hand & pneumatic tools and equipment needed to perform this service safely within an 8 hour time line. If you find someone who says they do it quicker, be warned, while its nice to hear "I can do it in 5 hours for $XX.xx dollars" seems nice, but do you really want to have someone working that fast and possibly very careless working on your car? My recommendation is to find an indy porsche shop that can do it in 8-10 hours.
  9. 90% of the time, its the regulator cable, and you have to replace it.
  10. Keep in mind that the 997 shoft shifter assembly from Porsche is the best upgrade for the boxster when it comes to reducing shifter play. With the B&M type SSK's you will have to re-tighten the bolt that holds the shaft of the lever about every half a year to keep the slop from coming back. The problem with B&M style SSK's is that they dont completely remedy the left - right slop in the shifter. The 997 SSK or 997 GT3 SSK from Porsche is the answer to the slop issues in the 986 and 996 shifter assembly and its a hell of alot easier to install than a B&M type SSK.
  11. if you remove the trans without removing the torq convertor, you will get a large gush of trans fluid pouring out of the torq convertor when you pull the trans off of it.
  12. they normally arent installed on new Porsches because...I think, the dealer wants to charge you for floor mats as an option, and they usually forget or dont care and will skip the install of the twist on velcro pad in your carpet.
  13. If its only happened for afew weeks you should be fine replacing only the starter.
  14. The Bendix isnt retracting and getting spun by the flywheel, You'll need a new starter.
  15. OK i got it now, Bank 1 camshaft cutouts will face away from the crank and bank 2 wil face the crank when engine is in TDC... question, after finding the TDC issue resolved... Do I need to remove the timing chain tensioners before pulling the IMS seal, one goes into the bottom of bank 2 head near the transmission and the other on the rear lower portion of the rear of the engine????
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