CJ_Boxster

haha, I found a shop called Dutch Treat in lawndale, they work on nothing put porsche, i passed by and seen alot of new caymans and 911's there, they work on a $80hr labor rate and said to take my car in if i decide to give up finding the issue myself.

Why are the "working" on Caymans? Strange. They should be uder warranty and at the dealership.

my guess is probably oil changes. They were up in the air so they could have been draining the oil.

ok, well $85 is better than $135 at the stealership. Well i dont have a propane canister...how about throttle body spray?

it should get the job done. just use a little spray here and there until your revs jump.

ok then, ill do that tomorrow...Think i cant goto Formula Drift if im going to be on my back along time.

haha, I found a shop called Dutch Treat in lawndale, they work on nothing put porsche, i passed by and seen alot of new caymans and 911's there, they work on a $80hr labor rate and said to take my car in if i decide to give up finding the issue myself.

ok, well $85 is better than $135 at the stealership. Well i dont have a propane canister...how about throttle body spray?

They are both from disconnecting your MAF.

P0102 is an open in the MAF circuit and P0112 is the MAF temperature sensor.

You MAF air flow looks a little low - it should be 12 to 24 kg/h (or 3.3 to 6.6 g/s). Are you sure you don't have an air leak on bank 2?

Dumb it down a bit for me....where or what is bank 2?

your MAF measures the mass of air flowing past it. Loren is saying that the mass of air flowing past your MAF is lower than it should be. two basic things can be happening. first, something (dirty air filter) could be severely hampering flow into the motor. second, your motor is sucking some of its air from somewhere other than the air filter (a leak somewhere past the MAF). the latter is more likely.

given the hissing sound you describe, it's possible that you have a hose or gasket that's allowing air to slip past it, creating the hiss. bank 2, FYI, is the bank containing cylinders 4, 5 and 6. this is on the driver's side of the car. to find a leak, open your engine compartment. i use a propane torch (hand held, unlit of course). wave it around the engine compartment until the RPM's go up.

if i had to guess, even though it's not on bank 2, i'd go with the oil separator bellows. see pic below.

So if the rubber boot is the culprit, Would it be ok to just replace the boot and not the entire oil separator?

Ok, well isnt there a update for that part...like awhole new part i should buy?

They are both from disconnecting your MAF.

P0102 is an open in the MAF circuit and P0112 is the MAF temperature sensor.

You MAF air flow looks a little low - it should be 12 to 24 kg/h (or 3.3 to 6.6 g/s). Are you sure you don't have an air leak on bank 2?

Dumb it down a bit for me....where or what is bank 2?

ok heres the current data that my ODBII scanner gave me while my 1997 boxster was idling

P0102

P0112 Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 Curcuit Low

Feul system 1 ========Closed Loop

Feul system 2 ========Closed Loop

Calculater load value ========1.1

Engine coolant temp ========87

Short term feul trim bank 1 ========3.1 - -0.7%

Long term fuel trim bank 1 ========1.5 - -0.7%

Short term fuel trim bank 2 ========-2.3 - 0.7%

Long term fuel trim bank 2 ========-1.5 - 0.7%

Engine speed ========814

Ignition timing advance ========4.5%

Intake air temperature ======== 45c

Air flow rate g/s ========2.93 to 3.40

Command sec. Air status ========off

O2s bank 1 sensor 1 ========present

O2s bank 1 sensor 2 ========present

O2s bank 1 sensor 3 ========absent

O2s bank 1 sensor 4 ========absent

O2 bank 2 sensor 1 ========present

O2 bank 2 sensor 2 ========present

O2 bank 2 sensor 3 ========absent

O2 bank 2 sensor 4 ========absent

O2s voltage bank 1 sensor1 ========0.165 - 0.0650

Short termfuel trim b1-s1 ========0.7 - -1.5%

Os2 voltage bank1 sensor2 ========0.095 - 0.675

O2s voltage bank 2 sensor 1 ========0.120 - 0.735

Short term fuel trim b2-s1 ========0.7 - -2.3%

O2s voltage bank2 sensor 2 ========0.700 - 0.645

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok whats wrong with my boxster now...The P0102 I believe is from yesterday when I disconnected the MAF...Whats the P0112 mean? is that the root of all my troubles?

It definatly increases with RPMS, not vehicle speed. I've tested this twice. Update on the noise, I turned left kind of aggressively and some of the noise went away., also, i'd like to change what i said about the noise...its not so much a hissing, it sounds like apeice of metal chattering....

Hey guys, yesterday i was getting on the freeway and i turned right semi aggressively and accelerated at the apex of the turn to 5500 rpms and hear this Hissing noise that grew louder as i accelerated....Now i hear it everytime i accelerate to 5500 rpms or when i turn right and accelerate alittle into the turn, I also hear it then.

The noise isnt a solid hissing noise like hiiiiiiiiiisssssssssssssssssssssssssssss..... Its more like hiss hiss hiss hiss hiss hiss hiss hiss hiss hiss, and as the rpms go up, the hissing gets more rapid.

Sorry, I dont know how to explain it any better.

Your ready to spend loads of money and time on fuel pumps, filters and MAF sensors but start banging on about what it might cost for someone who knows what they are doing to diagnosis the problem?!?! I really don't understand people like you at all. I read somewhere that it could be the clutch disc.... best change it and see if that helps.

Trust me, spending money on a MAF, fuel pump, and filter cost me less what it would probably cost me to have porsche diagnose the car.

The Maf was replace free of charge by dealer....filter was 30 bucks from Pelican...Pump was 85 from Salvage yard Georgia....thanks insite!

Maybe you understand now.

OMG, that is easy!, thanks insite, ill tke a rubber malet to my suspension to isolate the noise and i hope it is the rear control arm instead of the Rear Strut...the more i drive the car, the more i think the struts are fine cause they arent spongy at all, they are pretty firm and i dont float around at all...Im pretty well planted to the ground at any speed.

They might have been replaced at one point.

If use the odbII to veiw voltage and all that other stuff I won't be able to tell what's good or bad, except for trouble codes.

just post the numbers and we'll go from there.

Ok ill do that, so ill get the car idling then record all the data its giving, then post it here... Maybe its time for me to take it to a mechanic. Anyone know a reputible non-dealer porsche mechanic in the Southern California/los angeles area that doesn't charge $270 to diagnose.?

Ok tried disconnecting the maf, it didn't change anything, I still get a stumble below 2k rpms in gears 2 through 5.

Check engine light came on about 40 minutes of driving with maf disconnected...hope it tells me what else is wrong.

Yeah I do have a odb II scanner at home, what should I look for while using the scanner?

odd; the MIL should have come on right away with the MAF disconnected. anyway, use the OBD II scanner to post your long term fuel trims, idle trims, O2 voltages and any codes it throws. strange that you say the 'stumble' doesn't occur in 1st gear. describe the 'stumble' again as best you can.

Don't know what mil is...cel didn't come on till 40 minutes later, ok here's what happens....lets say I'm rolling at 30mph, and put the car in 4th gear which puts the rpms at 1500 rpms...when I accelerate at 1500 rpms, the car will stumble or misfire 2 or 3 time before reaching past 2000 rpms....the stumble feels like a momentary misfire.

If use the odbII to veiw voltage and all that other stuff I won't be able to tell what's good or bad, except for trouble codes.

Insite! buddy, your here too huh! Ok ill try that tonite. Weird cause this MAF is only 2 months old. I dont have oil on my filter...maybe i should buy a HKS element and fabricate myself a better design of a filter...the sponge material seems more reliable than paper.

OH OH i also have an update....While replacing the pump didnt cure the issue, It wont happen in 1st gear anymore...only in the higher gears 2nd through 5th...the car requires more load than 1st gear can offer before it will stumble.

hmm. maybe not the MAF. do you have an OBDII scanner?

Ok tried disconnecting the maf, it didn't change anything, I still get a stumble below 2k rpms in gears 2 through 5.

Check engine light came on about 40 minutes of driving with maf disconnected...hope it tells me what else is wrong.

Yeah I do have a odb II scanner at home, what should I look for while using the scanner?

Well I did replace the fuel filter but no difference and today I finished the fuel pump installation and while the idle is smoother, the issue is still present......what the hell else can it be? I did install bosh platinum 2's about a month & a half ago, could those be crapping out alread....or could my maf be crapping?

almost guarantee it's your MAF. if you want to check, unplug your MAF and go for a drive. when the MAF signal isn't present, the car uses a default fuel map to run the car. if the problem goes away with the MAF unplugged, you have found your culprit.

Ok, im going to go to lunch now but before i go, im going to disconnect the sensor and drive it to lunch...I called the mechanic that the dealer sent the car off to for the firs MAF replacment, they said they would replace it free of charge if its acting up again. FINGERS CROSSED!

I see, Hmmm, Is there a write-up on how to remove and replace then rear upper control arms?

Oh yeah, your right, i forgot that the issue is that the bumper is damage and in need of a replacement, Yeah i have seen the 996 bumper on pelican before and i do know its less expensive than a boxster bumper...simply forgot the issue at hand here.

Why does the picture of the fuel pump look like its cracked open? is that some sorta mod?

I do not think this has been covered before, and I have not done it.

Remove the battery and the 4 nuts for the battery tray. This much I have done. The pump is under the battery tray. First picture is my car from a few years ago when I looked to see what was under the battery tray.

You need to unscrew a plastic locking ring to get the pump out of the tank. The tool is a VW tool but if you are creative I bet you can remove the locking ring. This picture and the last picture were taken at my dealer last year after a fuel pump was removed, I think to replace the sender unit.

Insite! buddy, your here too huh! Ok ill try that tonite. Weird cause this MAF is only 2 months old. I dont have oil on my filter...maybe i should buy a HKS element and fabricate myself a better design of a filter...the sponge material seems more reliable than paper.

OH OH i also have an update....While replacing the pump didnt cure the issue, It wont happen in 1st gear anymore...only in the higher gears 2nd through 5th...the car requires more load than 1st gear can offer before it will stumble.

And just because I'm curious, why are you replacing the fuel pump?

I'm replacing it cause I ran nearly completely empty and stumbled once 3 seconds before I made it to the pump....now under load under 2000 rpms, the car will misfire 2-3 time before rpm's raise above 2k rpm's.

Well I did replace the fuel filter but no difference and today I finished the fuel pump installation and while the idle is smoother, the issue is still present......what the hell else can it be? I did install bosh platinum 2's about a month & a half ago, could those be crapping out alread....or could my maf be crapping?

Can anyone help me, i got my replacement fuel pump but i cant find a write-up for replacing it....Please can someone point me in the write direction.

Heres a good question, why werent our clutch disc hubs ever made with some springs inside like most standard clutches...wouldnt that ease engaugement?

I had a pop noise also, turns out one of the connecting rods for the top broke and the added stress one only 1 rod would cause a pop...once i replaced the broken rod, all was well...it was hard to tell the rod wa broken at first glance but if you tilt your head in alittle , you can see the plasti end is shattered.

Here comes some rain on your parade...I wouldnt invest any money on upgrading the looks of the boxster...when you can afford it, just lease or purchase a 996...there about 40k and sometimes alittle less.