CJ_Boxster

I've done it on the Cayenne before. Only special tool you'll need is a Ball-Joint Removal tool to pop the front knuckles off the lower control arm & Steering Tie-rod. However, the rear strut and front strut assemblies are very heavy so removal without a lift and maybe a friend will be very difficult. Also you'll need alot of extensions to remove the top 4 bolt from the rear strut assembly.

Also, if you have the height adjustment on your vehicle and you swap out the struts you will end up with error messages on your dash that are a result of not having the electronically controled adjustible factory struts installed anymore.

I've done an AOS on afew 996's already, You dont have to drop the transmission or engine todo it but trust me, its well worth it to take to a shop for that particular service... Its a solid 8hr job. Also, if your 996 is a Tip... it'll be just as hard and cramped to remove the AOS.

996 require removal of the airbox/throttle body/driver side intake plenum, not a walk in the park... unless we're talking a park at nite in a bad neighborhood.

Sounds like an issue with the pressure plate that the fidanza clutch kit comes with.

I have the same Pcode (P0441) on my boxster AND i also hear this faint, yet audiable horn... almost like a whoopy cushion coming from somewhere need the the fuel door lid.... Any advise?

I figured it out, gears in the electric motor striped out so manually i can lift it and electronically it wont catch.

Thanks for the diagram, ok i see the electric motor that pulls the clam open and when i press the button to close the top, I can hear and feel the electric motor running but it doesnt seem to pull open or shut the clam shell... What now?

Where is this micro switch?

OK figured it out but i have a new issue now...

problem was that the tiny push rod that pulls the clam shell lock/latch's clip had uncliped it self to the clam shell was stuck in lock position.

New problem now is that now after i reattached the rod to the lock latch... the clam shell doesnt move at all just like before, I have to manually lift the clam shell in order to get the rag top up. when i get the clam shell all the way back, i can use the button on the console to get the top to close and open... problem is that the clam shell wont shut afterwords... how do i get it to start working again...

I can hear a sound below the clam shell like it wants to try and open but nothing happens.

Actually heres an update on whats going on...

when i use the button on the center console to try and lift the top, I hear a light click sound from under the top but no movement what so ever.

when i try and turn the manual allen bolt to lift the top, only the passenger side of the clam shell will lift, but not the drivers side... it only goes up about 1/4 of an inch then i cant turn the allen bolt any further.

I tried that and i get the same issue where only the passenger side wants to lift while the drivers side of the clam shell is stuck down.

Hey guys, I have an 01 cab im trouble shooting, The clam shell seems to be locked down on the drivers side but the passenger side wants to lift but it cant since the drivers side of the clam shell is stuck down... Any advice?

hmm, it could be the MAF. Question... Just before it stalls, does the idle start to dip and raise abit seconds before it actually stalls... Also does your C4S seem alittle under powered than your used to lately?

Its likely your AOS, Usually the early stages or best case senarios for failing AOS is a small to large plum of smoke at startup. Worst case is non-stop smoke. Where are you located?

Judging by the smell and the rubber dust all over the place, its safe to say your A/C compressor is seized. You'll need a new one and have to recharge the system.

With the firewall cover off, start the engine with the A/C off, then keep your eye on the compressor pulley and turn on the A/C, if the pulley on the compressor stops moving and the belt just slides on it, your compressor is junk.

I believe it is normal for the pressure plate to stiffen as the clutch is put through more use.

Ok so i have been having reoccurring P1128 and P1130 as well. I did the AOS about 1k miles ago.

My idle is not rock solid as i would like it to be but it is right between the 6-8 marks. Also the cars at times will slightly shake at idle....im not sure if its a problem , or do i need to reset my DME after the AOS install.

it takes 2 days for the CEL to come after reset.

Check the Bellows tube of your new AOS and make sure the hose clamp wasnt over tighted bacause if you tighten it too much it could cut right through the rubber bellows tube and cause a vacuum leak. If thats not the case, then try cleaning your MAF with CRC Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner sold at almost any autoparts store now a days.

The last time I fixed a customers door rattle it turned out to be the micro switch for the outside door latch had uncliped itself from the interior of the outside door latch and was very hard to tell it was hanging at first but turns out that was the source of the rattle.

H&R's are alittle harsh for someone that wants to maintain ride quality, You might want to check on Eibach's I have them on my Boxster and while yes the Boxster is completely different than a 997TT, the Eibach's do lower the car and you still have alot of ride comfort after installing them.

FYI the piston at the top of the spring has been updated so while you have it out you might want to pick up the new one, i dont know what the benefits would be but an "improved" design couldnt hurt?

When you start the engine when cold, it should rev past 1200 rpms then come back down to about 900-1000 till the engine warms up a bit, then lower to about 850-900 rpms.

1schoir and RFM, thank you guys for the kind words, Even though I dont officially start till tomorrow on tuesday, I went a head and replaced a fellow Porsche owner's broken drivers door window on his 997S friday nite, way past normal closing time for the shop. I cant have my boys driving around with 1 missing window! Im always willing to work on these Porsches beyond normal shop hours :wrench:

Not a dumb question at all, your right it is a bit of a glorified crankcase vent however it does also keep the bubbled oil from entering the intake.

What would happen to performance/drivability if you just disconnected it and plugged off the intake?

Then your oil quality would degrade quickly, the gases the oil creates while the engine is operating need to be sucked out and burned through the intake and exhaust so they do not polute the air and help prolong the life of your oil.

Thanks Knarf, Ill be doing just that!

Not a dumb question at all, your right it is a bit of a glorified crankcase vent however it does also keep the bubbled oil from entering the intake.

Hmmm I must not have done my research this time... what's the difference between the "e-gas" boxster, and the other one? Also, I ordered the "J-Tube" so I'm not sure what the part # (or #s) that I need instead. I was replacing the AOS as a precautionary since I'm creeping on 75k. Didn't want to take any chances... unless there's a difference between the e-gas one and the other one where I don't really have to replace the AOS because it's not an issue?

The AOS is the same whether e-gas or not... the new AOS may look different to the one on your car but it will fit ok. Clean any oil out of the Y-tube you've got and return the new J-tube. Did your AOS come with a new bellows pipe for the bottom connection? If not you will need a new one.

Yea I ordered it from Sunsent, the bellows is already attached to it. So you're saying I can just re-use the Y-tube I have and there's no need to order another one?

Yeah you could reuse the old one assuming it isnt cracks or split and the seal at the connection points are air tight.

I think the newest AOS part number ends in 04, I just replaced mine last weekend and the AOS ended with .04 and the J-tube for my non-Egas engine ended in .05