CJ_Boxster

Hairy is right, you will have to return the Jtube if its Jshaped, if its a y shaped tube them your fine, you could use it.

E-gas Boxsters have electronically controlled throttle plates like a servo on a remote control car, as opposed earlier boxsters that have the old fashioned cable and spring tensioned throttle plates.

Your AOS should come with a bellows hose/ rubber accordian hose already attached to the AOS.

Hey guys,

My parts for a new AOS arrived yesterday, and I opened up my engine bay and am noticing some serious differences between Mike.Focke's explanation and pics of the AOS.

He explains that you need to "Remove the J-tube connecting the oil separator to the throttle body..." Well... I can't find a J-tube that looks anything like what's on my car. Upon closer inspection of this picture... this doesn't exactly look like the same setup mine has.

Here's the image from Mike Focke's site:

And here's mine:

Notice, there is no J-Tube, but there's a Y-tube in front of the Throttle body. ??

Here's a different angle shot.

I'm confused... now I'm not sure if I have the right parts for this job.

thoughts?

Thats because you have a newer e-gas boxster so the tube is different, If you ordered parts that look similar to what is in your car now then your fine. Oh yeah, just unsnap the y-tube and proceed with removing the bellows tube, 2 10mm bolts and snap hose from the bottom of the AOS underneath the car.

Hey Guys & Gals,

Since I know you alot of you pretty well, I'd like to share some good news with you all.

At my current place of employment, things arent going so well, sales down, renewals not happening so I'll be let go July 1st.... HOWEVER...! Theres a silver lining, I decided to take a chance and do something I've wanted to do since I ever cared about cars, I'll be working as the a Tech for Pcars/FastForward Wheels in Monterey Park doing service maintenance, repairs and upgrades to Porsches!!!

I was tired of sitting on my butt all day and doing nothing sitting in front of the computer. I needed to construct my own fork in this straight highway that is my life. Luckly, I have loads and loads of tools and knowledge to work on these beautiful Porsches at the new shop. Also I used to work part time for several independant shops in the harbor area, even afew majors like Nissan/Infinity, so this isnt really a leap off the deep end for me but more like a continuation of my longtime love of wrenching on exotic highend cars.

Im just so excited to finally work on the cars that I love and get paid for it. :cheers:

CJ,

Where are the pictures referred to in the diy?

Joe

They are referring to the Rear Suspensions Upper Control Arm/Track Arm.

Yeah i called them just now, $200 bucks per wheel... <_<

Looks like im going to go with a private party trade so any fella's interested in trading there 18x10's for my 18x11 Hollowspokes, can PM me.

Yeah, trading them is my first instinct, but i think i'd have better luck with a private party trade... That way i dont have to buy tires, I can just trade rear wheels with the tires.

Hey guys, I have a question on pricing for the Turbo II wheels.

I have a set of TurboII Hollow Spokes but the rears will not fit my boxster because they are 18x11 and the most i can fit is 18x10.

I'm having the wheels refinished and i wanted to know what is a decent price for 18x11 TurboII's with Gold Crest center caps and Pirreli P-Zero Asemetrico's (80% tread left)???

Second ?, What would I expect to pay for 18X10 TurboII's with the same tires?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Im also thinking, if someone has a C2 with the 18x10 TurboII's with the same tires with 80% or better tread left.... Should I ask for cash on top of the trade? if so, how much?

+1 for Throttle body... If that doesnt cure the problem... Have someone with Durametric software your car for Codes, even though you dont have a CEL, there could still be codes in the system. I have an ODBII scanner from SnapOn that tells me DTC's which are pcode errors that for some reason didnt cause a CEL but still had issues.

Attach an Ohm meter to your battery while the engine is idling, makesure its puting out the correct voltage which should be anywhere from 13volts to maybe 15v max, then turn the engine off and check the battery with the Ohm meter to see if its at 12 - 13 volts.

If your getting a whine from the alternator, it could be that your battery is crapping out and the alternator is working really hard to power everything OR you have a rebuilt alternator that needs to have its warranty exercised ;-)

AH, yeah reflectors does sound like the inside peice.

Loren, Im pretty sure he has the original amber exterior headlights that came on all early boxsters and 996's.

Like this headlight.

absolutly no way to remove the amber from the lense covers... the amber is infused into the plastic.

I don't see how pumping your gas pedal would help start the car when 01 2.7 fuel system is controlled electronically,,,

Since she is packing 70.000 miles , fuel filter should've been replaced- clogged filter is a possibility, spark plugs should been replaced- bad plug can cause this , also clogged injectors? while U are holding your throttle for 30 seconds,its actually building more fuel pressure? a faulty fuel pump on this model is very rare.

First thing I would do is mix a can of Techron injector cleaner w/ full tank of Chevron Super,,,

You probably answered his question without realizing it... Could be that his Throttle Plate Actuator on the throttle body is probably acting up... He should check his car for any new P-codes.

well my guess was a good one. Bought the beru coilpack from worldpac for $49 and removed the coil over cylinder #4 then installed it in 15 minutes. Cleared the codes and fired it up, smooth idling & acceleration now. Thanks for all u help guys.

Thanks Loren!

Im not sure thats right... I pulled the connection from the 2nd cylinder on the drivers side and got a misfire cylinder #5... and the head on the passenger side looks alot further forward than the Head on the Drivers side of the engine.

So i assume its:

FRONT

4-6 | |1-3

REAR

|

TRANSMISSION

Sorry, i meant, i want to know which cylinders are which on the engine.

Loren. What's the engine firing order? I wantto be sure in fiddling with the right cylinder

ok I'll try that

ok I have a bad consistent misfire and have a p code p0304.

Now I've pulled the coil pack and checked the connection and the sparkplug and all looked fine. I put it all together and forgot to plug the wire back onto the coil pack and noticed the misfire hadn't gotten any worse or better so I think my coil pack is bad. Anyone have any input on my diagnosis?

Anyone know the readings I should get from the coil pack if I hook it to a Ohm meter?

Need this info asap cause in here at the shop and want to get this show on the road, thanks in advanced

Also, What size are your tires on the rear?

nice! thanks for the info PK2

Just to clarify, You have 7mm spacers in Front and 13mm Spacers in the Rear... Is that correct?

So far I've been able to get this much info on the wheels, They are Stockers from a 2001 996TT. I checked the 996tt parts cataloge and it looks like they have a variety of wheel sizes for the Turbo II's from

Fronts 8 - 8.5 x 18

Rears 10 - 11 x 18

Im in the middle of buying some used Porsche Turbo 2's from a widebody 996 TwinTurbo... Will these wheels fit my boxster?

They are the wheels pictured in the image below.

Assuming you remove the throttle body for cleaning, you can use the CRC throttle body cleaner just so long as you allow the throttle body cleaner to dry and evaproate before reinstalling. I think its probably has to do with the A/F ratio when you first start the car and any undried CRC that may leak into the intake will cause misfires before allowing the engine to start for the first 5 cranks. That could be why they dont recomment if for turbo or S engine.