CJ_Boxster

First you press the hazard button.... itll then stick out enough for you to pull the black button off, Once that is off you will see the switch inside the dash... Squeeze the 2 tabs on the side of the switch while pulling the switch out with needle nose pliers... Make sure the switch is in the ON position when you pull it out because if you pull it while in the off position you could break it.

Have you tried removing the switch from the housing, connecting the wire harness into it, then with a broad flatblade screw driver, turning the ignition switch in the on position then back to the off position and seeing if your accessories turn off...? This would definatly tell you weather the new ignition is bad as well. That would rule out your ignition lock assembly from being faulty.

Ah, yeah you can if the soft velcro is sewn into the bottom of the floormat.

You mean the car, I agree, especially the widebody C4s

This works for me, give her the shocker... :o

Thats for the older style floormats that latch on to that clip you circled in red. Now adays we use the velcro circles in your picture ahead of the old latch to secure our mats. They are there to keep the floormats from moving all over the place.

Which Boxster radio... I think there are 3 types CDR-210, CDR-220 and CDR-230.

Post the link to the item

Under the drivers side or passenger side?

Passenger side has Water lines

Drivers side has AC lines and P/S lines and i think Fuel lines since its a C4 and a C2 would have fuel lines in the driveshaft tunnel.

Turn the car on and turn the AC on... If the line gets slightly cool its fuel line, if it gets really cold its AC, if no temp change or it gets warm its P/S

That does look really nice!

You can also play with it alittle and think about having the stripes start from the center of the forward facing part of your bumper, the area marked in gray.

Does anyone have any pics of boxsters with racing stripes? I was considering putting a racing stripe down my speed yellow boxster. I have seen a few corvettes with the black stripe and wanted an idea of how it would look. Going to use film so I can take it off if I hate it. Any thoughts?

I could imagine racing stripes somewhat like the f430 scuderia that progressively get larger as the go up the hood would look nice.

63 ftlb

Really, thats all... Im pretty sure the impact ratchet i used tightened it more than that. I somehow thought it would require more torq cause that nut and bolt have to squeeze the strut to keep it from moving.

Greasing it up might fix that. Also check to see if its seated properly and not snagged on anything.

Hey Fella's, Does anyone know what the torq spec is for the Swaybar Link Nut & Bolt that goes through the Hub which secures the bottom of the rear Strut to the Wheel hub...pictured below VVV

same thing happened to me, Turns out it was the o2 Sensor ahead of the cats that caused the misfire on that same bank of the engine

My Pcodes were P0304, P0305, P0306 (cylindars 4, 5 & 6, Bank 2) & P0300 (Multiple Misfire) and 1 DTC which is a pcode that registered during my drive which was P0150 (Non-Functioning o2 Sensor Bank 2 ahead of cats)

Installed the new o2 Sensor and Check Engine light stopped flashing and fuel efficency went up and idle was smoother.

The o2 Sensor is usually what causes misfires on only one bank all at once because it's pretty much the only sensor that will detect output from only 1 half or 1 bank of the engine, Any other part malfuntioning and causing misfire on all cylindars in 1 bank would be purely coincidental.

Well if they can do it, have the same fuel efficiency and no idle problems and not cost more than an arm and a leg, I would go for it cause always worrying about damaging the MAF is a real pain.

Todd, I cant wait to hear from you how great then Boxter feels with that X51 instaled. Have you modfied any of the suspension components to improve the handling with all that new found HP and Torq?

Well its normal for the shifting to be notchy and alittle tough when the gear oil in the tranny is cold and at its thickest form with cold. However, Not being able to engage reverse isnt too common. I have a question for you... Are you using any thicker gear oil in your transmission like RedLine or something similar? If so that could be the problem right there because thicker gear oil seem to make shifting when cold more laborious than the Porsche Recommended oils would.

Glad to hear that! Dont you just feel like driving it at the 5k plus RPM's more often when its working right :)

Ah, Well at least its fixed Maurice.

I unplugged my MAF yesterday and took it for a drive and all the torq is back, so ill be looking for a new MAF now.

I also used my fathers very expensive ODBII scanner to see realtime values that the MAF is sending out to the cars computer and the air-temp was WAY off. It was 12 degrees C. outside and the MAF was telling the computer that the air temp is 45 degrees C.

Hmm, well usually i would get about 2 months of trouble free acceleration out of every MAF cleaning... I do notice the occasional "Bucking" when deaccelerating from High RPMs to Mid RPMs.

I remember changing my Fuel Filter about a year & a half ago along with the fuel pump when I was having Bucking issues in the 1500-2000 rpm range 2 years ago and it Helped but didnt cure the problem and eventually the problem went away on its own but since I gotten the car back from Paint & Bodywork all these problems seem to have come back.

Hey My Peoples,

Ok after recieving my Boxster from the bodyshop, I immediatly noticed that the acceleration was lacking BIG TIME. So i figure since it wasnt drivin in 1 month I filled the tank up with gas and drove it abit and that seemed to clear up the low-mid RPM lack in power... However, the High RPMs (5k & Up) power curve seems to flat line.

Usually when that happens, I clean the MAF and problem solved but this time it didnt work, I also cleaned the airfilter and no change.

Yesterday morning I did notice that when the engine is cold, the mid-high rpm acceleration is non-existant until the engine warms up for about 30 seconds later, then the low - mid RPM power is there again... but still no power past 5k RPM's.

Anyone have any insite with this issue?

1997 2.5ltr 5-speed manual trans.

Theres a possibility that the noise it coming from your Clutch Throw-out Bearing... Is there a difference in the noise when you press and depress the clutch pedal...? Actually first is your car Manual or Auto... If auto then ignore this.

Well my Boxster has about 122,000 miles on it so im genuinely interested in keeping the oil pressure and volume in tip top levels. I probably will be the guena pig for this one... I have to find a way to check my before and after oil pressures and since the boxster doesnt have a guage, anyone know what the best way to get these readings would be?

Well i should have been more specific... Will replacing the old piston with the new one improve things such as Oil Pressure, Volume, Cold Starts? Thats really what i'd like to know.

I have waited 7 months so maybe another 2 weeks won't kill me. :D

Or will it??? lol jk Congrats! What options did you pick?