CJ_Boxster

Its called Soft-touch but hell if i know where you could buy it but now you know the name of the coating.

Well i wanted to see if the piston inside the boxsters Oil pump was ever redesigned/superseeded from its original design so i called my local porsche dealer and give them the part number 996.107.125.51

and he looks it up and says its been superseeded to 996.107.125.01 and continues to say its been redesigned and probably works better than the original design.... Now can anyone tell me what benifit one would get by switching out my old original oil pump piston with this newer design?

FYI it only costs 3 dollars at the dealer haha

By doing that, the lower profile tires will make your speed-o and your actual speed differ from eachother, And decreasing the profile will leave a nasty ugly large gap between the fender and the tires. Just go ahead and lower it and you can try and deal with the excessive toe-in till you decide you want to correct it.

Well I lowered my US Boxster 1 inch with an Eibach kit and the toe was way too +. As the rear lowers, the upper control arm is more level than in stock height, which pushes lower control arm and hub Back... Which in turn increases the amount of positive toe-in. You'll need slightly shorter toe arms and you can alone fix this with Aftermarket adjustible toe arms... Its not a crazy out of control Mod, even a normal mechanic can install these and adjust them correctly... They sorta adjust in the same fashion as the toe links in the front of the car.

This is what you'll need:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/996-997-986...sspagenameZWD1V

Short answer is No

Long answer is No because when the rear suspension is lowered, your Toe Arm will lack the range to give you respectible Toe in.... So you will end up with WAY too much toe in and when you hit bumps the rear end will feel squirly and wiggle till both wheels are firmly planted again.

You can cure this buy getting aftermarket adjustible toe arms. The you should be good to go other than being slightly out of spec with your camber but you'll need the camber since your suspension will have less travel due to lowering it.

I had my Stock (never replaced) struts that came on my 1997 boxster and had 122k miles on them, so when i replaced the stock springs with Eibachs, i replaced the struts too. If your under 30,000 miles then i probably wouldnt replace the struts and only the springs. I tell yah what, Even with Eibach springs, the new struts make such a huge difference when driving over bumps & cracks on the road... Before the old struts felt like they would skip off the road imperfections, Now with the new struts and Eibach springs the car feels like it walks over the bumps & cracks instead of skipping or bouncing off them.

oh wait, According to Max Speed the factory Litronics are D2C

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Box...tem220204799911

I believe its D1s or D2s, pretty much the most expensive type they make. If you have a Litronic bulb in your car, you can remove your headlight, remove the connector off the back of the bulb and it'll have the model number printed on it.

Congrats Will!

Wow, very nice! Looks like its Factory Optional accessory cause it matches so well.

Oh wait, i seen the part where you said its a PPI. my advise is skip this one... UNLESS the warranty is transferable and the dealer says they will repair the oil leak at no cost.

If the leak is seeping from between the bellhousing and the engine block... then it could be an RMS leak or leak from your IMS.... although, 6k miles is awfully early for those kind of things. Do you have a warranty? If so, have them fix it before your warranty is up cause chances are they might hesitate to call it as they see it until after your warranty is up. For Example During your warranty they might say "Hmmm oil leak.... nothing to worry about." and when your warranty is up "Oh man you have an RMS leak, clear as day! Give us $5000 to fix it."

Hello.

These Vacuum hoses are connected to the flexible rubber sleeve.

You should have 2 vacuum hoses, one on each sleeve. (see pictures)

You need to reconnect them to avoid a check engine light.

The Porsche part number seems to be like regular pipe 000 043 205 01

Good luck

Thanks for your help. Here is where it is coming from. You can see it got mangled and actually separated.

and here is where it is going to.

I purchased some vacuum tubing from Autozone and fixed the tube with a splice.

K. Brandsma

98 Boxster

That image of the check valve with broken plastic tube in it looks like the check valve for the Secondary Air Injection system... And im pretty sure that ONLY the Fuel Pressure Regulators plug directly into the Rubber collars that couple the Intake manifolds together.

Heres an image of the Check valve on in a parts catalog image.... I dont know where the other end of he check valve leads to cause the image doesnt show where it goes from there.

and Second is the picture of the Fuel Pressure Regulator plugged into the intake couplers.

It could be that it is hooked up correctly but you have something in your Secondary Air Injection that is faulty and is causing your o2 sensor problems.

well if it cannot go up on its own (fight gravity and its weight) then its likely the regulator is crapped out. Call Suncoastporshe.com for prices.

Aw crud... lol thanks for the info, Ill be on my way to the shop tomorrow so ill do the same coolant service to atleast thin out the mixture. Thanks for the info guys.

I just finished installing my new struts and a set of Eibach Pro-kit springs...

Even with the Eibach springs the ride is a hell of alot better than my stock setup which had 122k miles on it. Now my wheels "walk" over bumps in the road rather than skip off the bumps... I can feel the stiffness of the Eibachs over larger bumps and when i turn the car is noticably flatter (less body roll) than when compaired to the old stock suspension.

However, I'd like there to be less body roll. I have a MY97 Boxster non-S. What options are there as far as Sway-Bars? Incase you ask, I'd like to track the car eventually, so i wouldnt mind a really stiff sway bar. Maybe Insite could help since i know he basically lives on an autocross track.

Thanks in advance!

Sweet! Thats how i installed them. Glad i dont have to unbolt them and reinstall it just to fix that.

There is something missing from the directions on the front strut install... once the Strut is removed you will see 2 arrows back to back stamped into the hat. When you reinstall this on the car... should the arrows point left to right or front to back?

I know exactly what your talking about, I've had that happen to me everytime i would reverse in my parking lot the first year i owned my car till i gotten new tires and alignment... After the alignment that thumping went away... To me, it felt like either a tire was unevenly worn or like a thump with a slight wiggle coming from the front suspension. I remember feeling this same thing in afew other cars i've owned in the past but nothing was wrong with them at all, alignment was straight... its just the stock setup that some cars have that will produce that effect while reversing with the wheel nearly locked to the left or right.

Ocean Blue!

Its called Trinity Heavy Duty, The shop gets it in 5 gallon drums.

It cant be over heating and the fans are working of the Needle doesnt go past the "0", somewhere over the "0" is when the fans turn on. I've sat in my car and let the temps climb and somewhere over the "0" i hear the fans trigger and the needle drop slightly then the fans turn back off and the needle climbs again and so on and so on.

Its normal in heavy traffic for the needle to go up to the "0". Might want to do a coolant service if you havent done one yet to help keep the temps as low as they can be.

I also noticed on the way to work this morning that the coolant temp was alot better than it usually is, Normally the Coolant Temp Gauge needle settles over the first quarter section of the "0" of the "180" print. Now, after the coolant change, it hovers over the "8".

Went to my dads shop on saturday and had my cooling system placed under a vacum of 50PSI and sucked nearly all the coolant out of the car... so i think haha, The level of the "Old Coolant" tank was at .5 liters and when it was done pulling my coolant out it filled up to the 8 liter mark. Anyone know exactly how much coolant the entire system holds?

When the Coolant was being sucked out, it looked very clear, almost like water with a light green tint to it.

Here are acouple pictures i took while i was there of the vacum device.

Heres the dirty old coolant.. i have no idea how old it is, atleast 20k miles old cause thats how many miles i've put on the car since ownership. Notice how the coolant separated from the brown "matter"...scary stuff

Heres the old coolant tank next to the new coolant that was pushed back into the system.

Hey Gary,I wonder if you heat your Coilovers for afew seconds each if you can reduce it without damaging them permanently?

Finding the spring rate info has been very hard. From what I can see no one knows or can release what oem rates are and the aftermarket spring rates are hard to come by.

From what I can figure out, the rate is how much force it takes to compress the springs 1 inch.

Cross uses 393/450

PSS9 260/345

H and R 220/230

If anyone has additions to this list please post them.

Oh yes they are stiff.

I have found out that the rears are almost 500 lbs. Whereas the H and Rs and PSS9 are closer to the 300 range.

If you are installing the KSPORTS I would recommend installing the helper spring I understand that makes them better. Update us with what you think of them and after I figure out my spring rates or if I go with the helper spring I will update everyone here also.

What does the spring rate mean exactly? K Sports are 500lbs. vs the 300 on other coilovers.....what does this translate to performance and ride wise?