CJ_Boxster

Mine does the same, sometimes it does better when weather is colder and im not getting stopped or held up in traffic too often. Its normal, the Highest mine has been is the needle NEARLY passing the "0" on the "180" print.

You can goto Autozone in the battery accessory section and they have a settings saver that basically is a lighter plug with a 9 volt battery attached to it... Pretty smart idea.

Well its stock suspension and when i went for my first alignment the camber was set to perfect, then the second alignment they couldnt get the drivers side camber to near perfect anymore. I think it might have been a speed bump i hit afew months back, i hit it pretty hard.... the weird thing i noticed immediatly after hitting the speed bump is that the noticible vibration at freeway speeds in my steering wheel and entire dash was gone LOL I think i bent the strut while hinting that speed bump... Atleast i have a set of new struts with eibachs waiting to be installed.

Sounds like the sending unit for the temp gauge is had it. Usually there are two sending units... One for the ECU and the other for the Temp Gauge on the dash, you'll probably want to call a indie porsche repair shop for suggestions as well.

**** is there some rule about washing these test vehicles? Always so dirty

I talked to the dealer, they said that They see the issue in having from time to time when they are giving alignments and most of the time its a bend shock... the shiney rod inside the strut can sometimes bend and basically give you more negative camber than you want. I havent checked if my strut is bent yet but he did also say they dont sell eccentric's for the front but they are pretty sure theres a shop out there that does. Thanks for the advise on eccentrics Loren.

Yes that is what Iam talking about. Or, if there are eccentric's for the lower control arm where it bolts to the chasis, i can just install those to get the camber in the front into spec.

LOL maybe cuz I dont understand what u r talking about? r u talking about this,how u planning on have it elongated?

lol i see these pictures but i dont know what you are trying to tell me.

lol i see these pictures but i dont know what you are trying to tell me.

What if i were to elongate the slots that the camber adjustment bolts are sticking out of in order to pull the strut out some more for less negative? lets say about 1/4 of an inch on all 3 slots... would there be something wrong with doing that?

So is the caster within spec - worn lower control arms can cause all kinds of alignment issues.

Front wheel camber is adjusted by moving the (top) spring strut transversely. Just loosen the three fastening nuts on the spring-strut mount and, for the purpose of movement, remove the covering cap on the piston rod. Then move the whole top of the strut assembly until you have proper camber.

I have new adjustible Caster arm or front track arms and when i removed the old arms, i stood them on a table side by side and locked the lock nut on the arms, they slide right into place so im positive the caster is on the dot. FYI the camber has been like this before replacing the front caster arm.

So are you telling that the bolt holding the strut into the hub is an area for adjustment? if so, what do i do to it to get closer to near perfect camber specs instead of the "Just barely in the acceptible range" that im in now?

This should explain you problem...

Thanks Loren but i dont know how that can help me understand my camber problem.

I was wondering if anyone has a diagram or exploded view of the front suspension camber components, I'd like to see how they are attached to the rest of the suspension so i can figure out why my front drivers side wheel camber is adjusted out to the MAX but still has too much negative camber on stock suspension.

One of the things I have always done with many cars is pull the mounts and fill the empty spots in them with urethane.

This was filled with Devon Flexane 94 on my dad's race car. It doens't make them solid or so they will vibrate at all. The stock rubber is still in there, this is just poured urethane around it to fill in the gaps. We filled all 5 mounts on his engine and he has pretty lumpy cams and its still smooth, but it stops the engine from jerking around in the bay a lot. Even on the dyno the motor doesn't move much. These are on a VQ35DE powered 4th Gen Maxima. Puts 269whp N/A and 390ish on Nitrous to the wheels.

You tape up the back side and pour the Flexane in and it sets over night then re-install the mount. It will pretty well solve the motor moving around problem or mounts rubber wearing out. Pretty slck stuff.

You'll have to search around to find it, but these guys carry it.

http://www.venselenterprises.com/onlinecat...plies/p305.html

Jim which one did you use from that link you posted, did you use the flexible Epoxy or another?

Middle of the page in "interior lamp bulbs" section

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._INTtrm_pg1.htm

Have you tried slaping the top of the dash to get the light to turn back on?

I dont think it would cause i seen in the past that done to a highly modified boxster and the car didnt throw out any CEL pcodes so you should be fine but keep in mind you wont have anything to suck out the gases that the heated oil produce which will reduce the life of the oil

If the click is slow to respond, that sounds like a mechanical part is gummed up... I'd try going to a lock smith and seeing if they can spray it up alittle with some lube to help loosen up what ever is sticking.

Blink and White, I've used it from 82k to now at 119k. I love it, I've used it in my TwinTurbo cars & Boxster and noticed a smoother engine idle over time when used in conjunction with Motor Flush the first 3 oil changes and injector cleaner every other oil change and cleaning my air filters. Even after several full tanks of gas after using injector cleaner, the idle stays smooth... Sometimes to the point to where i cannot feel the engine idle through the seats.

Oh yes, dont forget to change your spark plugs or clean them if you have a air compressor with the sparkplug cleaner sand blaster attachment. That helps alot.

Im using Royal Purple 5w40 and i have a 119k mile engine.

I never heard of cracking but i have hear of fading but the fading sure is worth it for the protection... Its either fading or yellowing after 2 or more years OR rock chips galore on your bumper and hood.

Well its obvious from the issues with the steering lock that its the tumbler assembly thats craping out on you. That costs more than the electrical part im sure.

How much was the switch?

I think my inner switch is faulty cause when the door is opened and the window goes up, If i pull the inner door handle lever afew times, the window will drop back down.

Ok i found the source of my slow power steering fluid leak, Attached is a picture of the joint where the leak is coming from. How do i fix this, is there an O-ring inside that i can replace? I already tried to tighten the joint but it was already tight and i can see that the space between the nut and the line that goes in moves alot and that whatever sealed it inside was gone or worn so there is play at the area specified in red in the picture.

If its O-rings, what size?

If you dont have a door lock button on your FOB then that means your likely have been using the valet key. I think all boxsters come with the factory alarm, You'd have to order a Fob for your specific year boxster and have the dealer program it. Only down fall that i dont like about the factory alarm is that it doesnt honk when you lock or unlock it, only blinkers flash. The only time it'll honk is if your factory alarm is malfuntioning or you left a Door, hood or center arm rest console opened.

then its a mystery why my headlights move up and down every once in awhile.