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Karl.....You should not have to deal with the ABS connection. It is just a wired slug that plugs into the hub carrier, the end of which is close to the toothed ring inside the hub. The caliper change won't interfere with the ABS slug/plug. As for the brake fluid line connection it will leak all over the place unless you find some kind of plastic plug to stem the flow. I keep a collection of various plugs and caps for such purposes. You can even buy a set from tool suppliers such as SnapOn. Note that the factory would have you replace the socket head (they call 'em cheesehead) bolts that hold the caliper to the hub each time you remove them. They come with a bit of goop on the threads to sort of lock them. I have never done so myself....but, have used a bit of blue locktite. Loren can quote you the torque settings.....important since you have steel bolts into aluminum hubs.

I've had my own GT3 for 1.5 weeks now and have driven a total 3 different GT3s on the track and on the street. They all seem to demonstrate a subtle steering behavior that I would like to describe and see if others have noticed. It happens in a gentle, steady state turn to both the right and left and close to neutral throttle, that is, not under heavy acceleration nor under heavy overrun. It's all gentle enough that all tires are experiencing a very low-to-no slip angle at all. ... so, this is not about tires slipping/sliding at all. It happens in such gentle circumstances that this is also not about fore-aft weight transfer effects. The behavior is that when transitioning from light, even steady speed throttle to lift-off/closed throttle the front end tucks subtly into the turn....enough to require a slight steering correction to maintain the turn's line. Open the throttle back just past neutral and the nose steers just a little wide of the line requiring another minor steering adjustment. I've been thinking about the 60/40 asymmetric limited slip differential and how it may be creating this effect, but, my understanding of it's function would be that it would create the opposite effect. More lockup (60%) in overrun would create more understeer which would push the line wider on overrun, not tighter. I've also been speculating about "dynamic toe" geometry that Porsche has used in the rear suspensions of some cars since the 928's Weissach Axle and wondering if this an artifact of something like that. If so, it's happening at very low loadings. What is your experience and what are your ideas?

Jeff....Let me know exactly what you are measuring and I'll do the measurements on my own GT3 next time I am crawling around under it.

Is it possible that the "short shift" in the GT2/GT3 is due to some geometric difference that is NOT in the shift tower? The GT2 and GT3 have the same gearbox (with maybe some ratio diffs). Maybe the actual shift levers on the gearbox are shorter? Personal experience: My new GT3 definitely has a shorter/tighter shift throw vs. my old '99 C4.

I wonder if Roland at H&R Special Springs would know? I assume that H&R makes the springs for the GT3. H&R is at 888.827.8881

Dave....I think that I know what you mean. I also had what I would call a wailing sound on start up with the AC on. It occurred primarily on road trips in hot country where the AC would be left on. A Porsche dealer tech said it was the AC working fluid working through the expansion valve in the evaporator back to normal working pressures. Nothing to be done...just enjoy cool air. :D

Plus toe, (+5' = 0.0833 degrees total toe in) is toe in which is not twitchy in straight ahead travel. Some amount of toe out is usually said to aid turn in, but, be twitchy in straight ahead.

Gary....There is one other, very remote, possibility. Have you had any work done recently on the clutch pedal action or return spring to address funny noises? The DME/eGas programming senses the position of the clutch pedal. If the sensor is not retsored/adjusted after the work, you can experience something like what you are feeling. BTDT

Don....My personal preference is to have all four off the ground and 4 (at least) jack stands under THE RIGHT points. My process uses 2 floor jacks, not the supplied jack, so don't think you can do this with the supplied scissors jack. Lift one rear side at the rear jack point using a jack pad that inserts into the jack point to avoid slippage and lift the whole side so the front is high enough for your front stand. Put the front stand under the front jack point and pad it with a puck or wood. Then lower the rear onto a jack stand (same height at the front) under that sturdy looking place where the angled bar bolts to the engine/rear susp cast aluminum carrier, pad with puck or wood. Do the same to the other side. I leave a floor jack just barely in support of each rear jack point all the while it's on the stands for extra safety. That way you can get all 4 wheels off at once, bleed brakes, clean stuff up....and if you learn something while doing one wheel, you can go back to a previous wheel and do it there too. It also relieves preload on the anti-roll bars. If it's level, it's a good time to change the oil too. YMMV

Scott....That may well have adjusted the camber toward the negative...how much we don't know...and we don't know if was the same on both sides. The other thing it definitely did was to change the toe of the front alignment. Again we don't know how much nor how evenly side to side. The steering rack and arms have been moved to infront of the front axel on the 996 (was behind on previous 911s), so, you probably added some unknown amount of toe out to whatever you originally had. This is all not an exact/predictiable way of setting your alignment. You may want to go get the front realigned to see where you are now, and set it to where you want to be.

There has been, and continues to be much difference of opinion about the possible performance effects of BMC, K&N pleated cotton type air filters. They are an easy mod to do to today's "sealed" engines. They may, or may not flow more air (have a smaller pressure loss across them at a given flow rate), they may, or may not allow more of the finest grit through in doing so. They generally do allow more intake noise back out to the listener. The most important fact is that if the user over oils them (easy to do) the oil can migrate on down stream to the mass air flow sensor and cause a CEL fault. PCNA has replaced many MAF sensors on warranty and is now hesitant to do so if the owner has an oiled cotton type air filter. You don't want to pay for a MAF sensor replacement yourself. That said, I ran a K&N replacement filter in the stock airbox of my '99 C4 for 4 years with no problems, but, I was very careful about over oiling the thing. I'm planning on running the stock paper filter on my incoming GT3. It's the same one that PAG installs on the TT and GT2. I figger if it flows enough for those engines and keeps them clean enough for PAG, it'll be fine for a NA GT3.

Thanks Loren...That explains my observations. There is still a supplementary halogen high beam bulb (probably still an H7), but, the Xenon illumination switch to high beam mode is different and improved. So, as before with my Litronics, I may search for slightly better H7 supplementation high beam bulbs.

I thought I knew this, but, now I'm not sure. I owned the Xenon headlight option on my '99 C4....and I've ordered the P74 Xenon option on my incoming GT3. (sometimes called "Bi-Xenon"?). My buddiie's new GT3 just arrived home with the P74 option and upon inspecting the headlights I find a Xenon low beam in a projector beam housing that levers up and down as the car attitude changes (just like my old '99 Xenons), and a halogen (looks like an H7) bulb below that adds to the Xenon low beam when high beams are selected (just like my old '99). So what's "Bi" about the P74 Bi Xenon option, and how's it any different from my old '99 Xenons? <_<

Pistol....The Gurney Flap for the 99-01 factory Cup Aero Kit is part number 996 512 988 00 You should be able to order it separately. It glues on with a bead of trim adhesive that you apply in a careful bead to a small depression molded into the bottom of the piece.

I just spoke with Michelin Consumer Relations about the current (un)availablity of the Pilot Sport II N2 tires for the GT3. I told them that TireRack has been unable to order the tires and that I was concerned about potential replacements since GT3s are now on US highways. Michelin says that they do have "some" Pilot Sport II N2s at their warehouse on "Consumer Relations Hold". They explained that, given the limited availability of the new tires, they hold available stock for specific customer needs, but, as yet, do not allow retailers to order in batches for their own stock. Bottom line, if you need a replacement Pilot Sport II N2 for your GT3 and you or your dealer can't get them from TireRack, call Michelin Consumer Relations at 800.847.3435. This will change as Michelin stocks increase.

Joe....I've used the original factory GT3 5mm spacers/longer bolts on (all four) Sport Design wheels on a '99 C4 with no problems. If you use non factory spacers, remember that your bolts need to be as much longer as the thickness of the spacers.

David....There is a known situation where this can happen if the alternator gets wet. Usually it happens when you are cleaning the engine and spray some water directly at the alternator. PAG warns you against doing this. They recommend protecting the alternator with a plastic bag while spraying off the engine. I had the same experience once.

Patrick....I installed the AeroKit I on my '99 996 C4. The Gurney flap on the lower rear wing is, of course, a prescribed part by the factory. I kept mine out the hands of the paint shop and glued it on with the factory adhesive myself, leaving it black (the car is AS). PAG won't tell you how important it is, just that they will highly recommend that you install the kit just like they designed it. I'm no aerodynamicist, but, I do know that a Gurney flap (or wickerbill in roundie round lingo) can have a big and important effect on the downforce a wing will create. You may have seen CART guys changing very similar looking GFlaps for different car balance and drag. I don't know if the AeroKit GFlap makes a discernable difference at high speed, but, I'd buy a new one and put it on. IMO it looks good, too, to have it in contrasting, unpainted, black.....(don't tell Loren I said that '-) )

Dranon.....I hope the service advisor just doesn't understand your question about checking the clutch when they do the RMS. The RMS is between the flywheel and the engine case and they have to take the clutch off the flywheel to get the thing off. They do it by leaving the engine in the car and dropping the transmission.

Doug....I support Mike's suggestion above. With the Pagid's you also get the ceramic heat transfer slow down layer between the backing plate and the friction material. I have those pads on my street Audi with Porsche calipers and agree with Mike's experience.

I agree with everything that Karl has said above. I would only add the fact that many racing pads like the Pagids have a thin ceramic layer between the backing plate and the friction material to slow down heat transfer/soak from the pad material into the caliper pistons and on to the fluid. The new GT3 has significantly upgraded brakes in the areas of size, and cooling, and also claims: "The calipers themselves are equipped with zirconia ceramic inserts to prevent the transfer of heat from pistons to fluid."

ToolPants.....I have the interior self-dimming mirror in the box on the shelf waiting to put it into my incoming GT3. I have the TSB on the official install process. If I don't care about the reverse-gear-undimming feature, can I simplify the install process and just leave that part out/off/unconnected? Thanks in advance.....

I installed the factory Aero Kit (original GT3 Like) on my '99 C4. The front bumper cover that I got looked just like yours in the pix above. The center recess was not open and was all of the same piece of PU-RIM as the rest of the bumper. The thing did not have an obviously removable plug. At the time I consulted with Loren and had the same confusion because his kit apparently did have a removable plug. My kit did include the oval insertable black trim(?) ring to put on the edge of the center opening......if it were open. So I concluded that, for the center rad, you had to cut the thing out. I didn't have the center rad, so it was moot for me.