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clord

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Everything posted by clord

  1. Hi Bruno.... I am of limited help here. We never had the Audi RS2 here in the states. I can only tell you the the caliper and rotor you propose using work together on the rear of the 996 C4S from 2002 =>. I can't help with the dimensions nor the offset necessary for the RS2. I do know that the 996 uses a different bolt circle size from all the Audis that I've seen in the US.....so, the Porsche rotor would not even fit the Audi bolt circle. All the Porsche to Audi brake adaptations that I've seen use a two piece rotor with a custom center hat with the Audi bolt circle and offset.
  2. Hi deschodt..... I don't know a lot about it, but, I do know the following. The stock GT3 Mk II center radiator exhausts downward under the front bumper cover. The GT3RS center radiator exhausts, as you point out, upward through the three slots in the top of the bumper cover. Consequently, the stock GT3RS center radiator is mounted at a different angle to facilitate the different exhaust direction. I don't have personal experience, but, I believe that you can order the appropriate RS center radiator mounting hardware to re-angle a center radiator.......but, wait....... does your car (you didn't say) even have a center radiator?
  3. Yes, please do keep us posted, Charles. If you find a solution that works.....and STAYS working..... we want to know.
  4. Hi.... There is only a rear fog light on the left/driver's side of the car. This is common for many European cars.
  5. Hi pg..... If you are planning on doing PCA sanctioned DEs run by a local region, they may well require you to go by the national DE guidelines (or may not). If they do, they will require "equivalent restraint" for the driver and instructor/passenger side. If so, you are looking at putting 5 pts and similar/same seats on both sides. That said, you can find good, safe, seats that will support a 5 pt harness for both sides. Have a look at the Recaro Sportster CS Hybrids: http://www.speedwaremotorsports.com/seat/r...SportsterCS.asp The backs adjust and you can get a sub port. You may already know that, in order to be safe and pass tech, shoulder belts cannot attach below a certain angle to avoid the chance of spine compression in a crash. To get the shoulder attachments up high enough, you need at a minimum, a good harness bar or a harness guide bar. Brey Krause makes a great line of such stuff. http://www.bkauto.com/porsche/harness.php. If you run DOT R tires, you will need a fire extinguisher too.
  6. The plastic pin, on my car, protrudes from the plastic dome about 8mm, even when the engine is stone cold. Levering the bail up will raise the pin even more. But, I'm still confused by the symptoms you describe.
  7. Hi reckless......welcome!! See us over at the 996 GT3 category too.
  8. Yeh.... I have 993TT Big Reds on my Audi TQ, and, even for that, I've reverted to stock, Porsche factory pads for that caliper. They are quiet and work just fine for the street. Sometimes, new Pagid pads on new or buffed up rotors (break the Pagid deposition glaze) will be quiet....but, if you get them hot on the track, they revert to very noisy.
  9. Hi LV.... Well....I can get you the part numbers of the stock "anti-squeel" shims for front and back.....but..... I don't think you will eliminate the noise with the factory shims. I've tried running many different Pagid compounds on the track and on the street on three different porsches and several Audis. Bottom line: they all are great on the track and they ALL make noise on the street....even the blue sports that are supposed to be street/track pads....whether or not I've run shims. I've used Porsche shims, Pagid shims (on the blue sports) and even home made stainless steel shims (DO NOT TRY THIS...ask me why later). As I said, the Pagids are a great track pad, but, after being toasted on the track, my experience is that they will squeel, no matter what, on the street. Let me know if you want the factory shim part numbers......or. drop by my garage..... I've got a good supply of them all.
  10. It could be many things, and should probably be checked out by a mechanic since any local overheating can cause metal or gasket damage. Something you said caught my eye, though. You said that the "security pin" had popped up. Might you be referring to the domed plastic device on top of the coolant reservoir near the filler cap? It has a wire bail/handle on the top in sort of a rectangular shape. It is normally roughly horizontal. If you lever it up to vertical, it lifts a plastic pin through the top of the dome. The purpose of that assembly is to vent excess air out of the cooling system, usually after a drain/refill cycle. The 996/997 cooling system is virtualy horizontal, front to rear, allowing lot of places for air pockets to form. Air pockets may equal uncooled places and uneven cooling or localized overheating. So, it's important to be able to vent excess air and can done with the motor running/hot. Anyway, the normal position for the wire bail is horizontal. In vertical/vent mode, it may even allow hot coolant to escape....and, maybe cause steam clouds as the coolant hits hot things.
  11. I installed the factory Aerokit on my '99 C4. It came with a wiring harness for the rear deck that tells the remaining third brake light (CHMSL) to always work (since there is no longer the moving spoiler with the CHMSL in it) AND it tells the instrument cluster to not indicate spoiler up/down. Loren can confirm. And, yes, it came with the divider bar for the air holes like in Loren's picture.
  12. clord

    3A Fuse

    Hmmm.... The only place I've seen fuses like that is incorporated into plugs....like the ones in the plugs on holiday light strings....and like the ones sometimes seen in 12V adaptor/cigarette lighter plugs. Maybe a spare from a radar detector 12V plug or something?
  13. Howdy.... Welcome to Spoiler Lip Club!! We rip 'em off and we stick 'em back on. They are amazingly tough, though. My last rip off was caused by an insufficiently ironed-out racoon in the middle of the road. My lip ripped totally off, I ran over it (and the racoon) and the lip bounced over into a farmer's field. It does fit behind the seats of a GT3, BTW. There are three rivets part numbers and I've used them all: Street car lip rivets: 999 507 427 40 Cup car lip rivets: 999 507 557 40 General push rivets: 999 507 497 40 These can work, they also hold front fender liners in and brake duct front ends on. Any of these can locate the lip. I'm not sure of hole size. You want them to fit snugly. The key to keeping the thing on the car (barring parking bumpers and racoons), is the double sided foam sticky tape. When the factory puts on a lip they use sticky tape part number 000 043 206 04. This is also used to hold some exterior parts on Cayennes. When the factory ships GT3's to the US, it leaves the lip install to the delivering dealer who may not use the mounting tape provided. It's a 3M pressure sensitive, double sided foam tape about 5/16ths wide and dark red in color. Without the tape, the lip-to-bumper joint will accumulate lots of small rocks/sand that will eventually pry the joint open enough so that at speed, it can be torn off just by the air pressure.....that's definitely NOT when you want it to come off. My method: Clean up both the bumper and lip joining faces with scrapers, adhesive solvent, whatever it takes to get two clean mounting faces. Apply one or more strips of the mounting tape as far forward (toward the incoming air stream) as possible. This will minimize the amount of sand/gravel that can jam in there. Press it on with the rivets locating it on the bumper. The tape does more to hold it on than the rivets ever do. Once I found the factory tape, I headed to my local hardware store and got similar 3M mounting foam tape. It's the strongest holding of the various types of mounting tape that 3M offers. I use a lot of it. Many Cup Car racers then use a strip of racer's tape on the lip to bumper joint to prevent further road junk from jamming in there. BTW, if you trash or lose the stock lip, you can replace it with the similar Cup Car lip for about half the price. It's part number 996 505 986 91.
  14. Hi OPK.... Well, GT3 RMS leaks are almost as contentious an issue as on the regular 996/7s and Boxsters. Most experience is anecdotal. Some can/do leak and some don't. My own anecdotal experience is that my '04 GT3 with 17K miles leaked once just a few drops after sitting for several weeks...and has not leaked a drop before or since...with street and track miles on it. My buddy's GT3 which is 4 serial number newer than mine, leaked and had the RMS replaced 3 times. Sometimes it leaked profusely after being driven hard on the track. So, I can't say that leaks "are normal" but, they can happen.
  15. They certainly look like the red Porsche/Brembo calipers that come on the 996 GT3. It would require the part number to be certain. FWIW, their kit is advertising 355mm Dia X ?mm thick AP rotors. The 996 GT3 front rotors are 350mm OD.
  16. Hey RJ..... Yeh, the GT3 motor has the dip stick in the filler tube. Probably says "Cup" on the handle-loop of the stick. Bottom line, the stick is more trouble than it's worth. I remove the thing when filling with oil...as you point out, it just gets in the way. When it's full of fresh oil, if you try to measure the fill with the stick (engine hot, idling), the oil is too clean to see when the level is on the stick, anyway. I just use the electic dash read out to evaluate oil level. The coolest thing about the dip stick is the "Cup" label!! BTW, FWIW, since oil expands when it gets hot, I like to run the level 1-2 marks from the top on the dash read-out when warm. I fill up with about 8+ quarts.....warm the engine (on the same flat parking place in the garage, since the reading changes if the car is not level), measure the level with the dash read-out, then add enough to get the reading where I want it. ....and once I tried to pour the oil in too quickly...it overflowed and made a mess....so, have patience.
  17. Hi V...... I'll assume your GT3 is a Mk I, given that you said "the original Mk I stock rims". Yes, the factory 5mm spacers that came on the Mk I are hubcentric. They are nice alloy pieces that are held on to the hub with slightly longer versions of the 2 flathead screws that hold the brake rotor to the hub. The kit includes the spacers, the longer holder-on-er screws and a full set of 5mm longer wheel bolts. (Be sure to Always use the longer wheel bolts when using the spacers to assure adequate bolt insertion). If you are going to run the original Sport Design wheels that came on the Mk I without the spacers, and if you are using the original wheel bolts that are 5 mm longer, assure that the 5 mm further insertion into the hubs doesn't hit anything behind the hub. Rotate the wheel completely after install to assure clearance. Also assure inside wheel/tire clearance through out suspension travel and front wheel steering lock before you head out to the track. If all clearances are fine, then, as far as any handling differences from the 10mm narrower track.....well, you would have to be very sensitive to the handling to notice any difference....IMO.
  18. Hi Dave..... I too have an '04 GT3 with two sets of factory wheels. I also have on the shelf a set of the factory 5mm wheel spacers that were delivered stock on the '99-'01 ROW GT3. I used the spacer set on my (now gone) '99 C4. I have not tried them on my GT3, so I can't speak to fitting issues. I do know that the stock wheels/tires on the '04 GT3 fit the wheel wells quite well, though. Note that the 5mm spacer set should include 5mm longer wheel bolts so that the bolt insertion depth is retained with the spacers. I would NOT run spacers with stock length bolts. If you try fitting the spacers, please let us know your experiences.
  19. Hi Ron... Check me if I'm wrong, Loren, but, the 996 Thicker Steering Wheel option code is XPA and the part number for it is 996 347 983 00. The color code for black is A28 (D11=natural grey leather; T11=natural brown leather). Those were the options for my '04 GT3.
  20. Scott.... It may well be a rubber "support" (separator/anti-rattle thing) that fits between the power steering lines in the forward part of the LF wheel well. If so, it may be part # 996 347 543 00. If that's it. it's absence isn't probably serious, but PAG put it there for some reason.
  21. HI Scott.... I'm working from memory here, but I think that it is a 'spacer'/'locator' thing that fits vertcally between two horizontal pipes in the top front of the left front wheel well. I'll check PET when I can get some more time.
  22. Hi Scott.... I share my experience....it may, or may not help, or be exactly what you are looking for. Today, I stick with stock intakes and paper filters (GT3, Audi S4 TT), but, I did experiment with intake mods on my '99 C4. I bought it new in Feb, '99 and sold it in July '03 with about 48K on it. Shortly after purchase I put on a K&N panel in the stock box. I'm always careful about over oiling and about letting it "age" overnight before reinstalling. I've read all the horror stories about failed MAFs, but, in my case I never had a problem. About a year later, when Joe Fabiani was "inventing" his intake system for 996's, I began to experiment (not using Joe's parts). At that time Evo had something I think they called a "quick flow" or something like that for not a lot of money. I bought that and stared at it for a while. I used the quick flow's main big plastic angle tube and silicone tubes and clamps to eliminate the "nasty" accordian tube. Then I built my own resonator eliminator. Actually I just unscrewed and removed it and plugged the hole with (get this) an old 2 1/8th inch VDO instrument hole knock-out plug. I glued it in with RTV and it fell out. I re-glued it in with epoxy and it worked fine (even though it wasn't carbon fiber). I got the intake sound from the K&N panel, the larger air box volume (for whatever that may or not be worth) and got whatever effects on intake flow that eliminating the resonator produced. Then I just drove the thing another 40K miles and enjoyed it.
  23. Hi Michael.... I'm glad to hear that your stumble has gone away...but, a little uneasy that we don't know the cause. I hope that, if it was serious, that there would have been fault codes logged. Also glad that your alignment job fixed some of the dartiness. Yes, these cars are very sensitive to alignment. It's a good learning experience to know the before and after alignment specs and to associate those with your experience of the car's handling. That way you you get to know what YOU want in an alignment.
  24. Hi Andy.... Yes, the motors in the 996, 986, 997, 987 (not Turbo, GT2, GT3) are very different from all previous 911 motors. They are a totally new design focusing on manufacturing economies. They are all advertised as having an "integrated dry sump". Many of us call them the "flat bottomed" motors since the bottom (sump area) is largely flat. The "old", traditional 911 motors have a somewhat cylindrical crankcase around the crankshaft, and counter/auxilliary shaft. The counter shaft is below and parallel to the crank and drives the cam chains and oil pump. The oil pump scavenges oil that falls to the crankcase floor and pumps it out of the crankcase to an external oil tank. The same pump also supplies the engine with oil from that tank which becomes a deep, reliable supply of oil in high G turns. This scheme enables a lower, more compact engine (no oil "pan" below the crank)....and enables the storage of a larger oil supply (in the external tank). This is the engine that Porsche designed for the first 911 and developed and developed and went racing with over the years to this day, in turbo charged form and NA form. In the 935 they began to experiment with water cooled heads (necessary to cool the valve area enough to enable 4 valve heads later). In the 1998's GT1 Racer, they went all water cooled, but, on the same basic dry sumped design. Today's Turbos, GT2, GT3 motors are derivations of that 40 year old dry sump design, but, with full water cooling, 4 valves/cyl, and variable valve timing. In the '90s, porsche designed a totally new flat 6 for the then new 996 and 986 emphasizing manufacturing efficiencies. The new motor has the cylinders cast in unit with the case halves, and a new steel two piece cradle around the crankshaft.....and the "integrated dry sump". The integrated dry sump is really just a familiar oil pan below the crank and counter shafts, but, separated from them (except in the middle where there's a hole) by horizontal casting. The oil pump sucks out of the pan and supplies the engine directly from there....there is no external tank. This simplifies the plumbing and construction. But the oil is still stored by gravity under the crank and countershafts. The scheme does do a better job of retaining the oil under the pump pickup than it would without the dividing casting, but, the first 3.4 liter versions did have some pick up problems in high G situation and did allow pooling of oil in the heads....and potential oil starvation in those high G turns. That was fixed in the 3.6s with baffling and another oil scavenge pump in the head area. The fact that the factory still goes racing with the "old", dry sump design and puts it in the Turbos, demonstrates that that "old" design has a plenty of extra strength designed into it.
  25. I am not the authority on this subject, NOT having replaced the exhaust on my own '04 GT3. I do know, though, that aftermarket exhaust vendors, like Joe at Fabspeed do sell headers and exhaust (cat-back) systems that claim to fit the flat-bottom/996 motors AND the GT3 motors. That implies that the cylinder spacing, port shape, hanger locations, etc are the same. I also remember reading in the 996 GT3 Mk II Tech Descripton that Porsche enlarged the header tubing size for Mk II GT3 vs. the Mk I GT3 among other changes. So, the flat bottom motor's exhaust will probably fit. What it might do to the GT3's exhaust flow characteristics is unknown to me. For what it may be worth, I have been told by more than one usually reliable tuning source that the only street legal exhaust change that reliably makes more power on a Mk II GT3 vs the stock system is the 996 GT3 Cup Car system. I know others have different opinions.
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