Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Just looked up the MSRP in the handy-dandy reference document...YIKES. I am always surprised that parts cost 3x what I think they should. Probably would be just as bad with the Audi or tow vehicle. Email going out to Sunset...
Thank you, DC and Loren, for your quick replies. I was looking for the part number for 28, which is 997 551 033 00 A10 according to DC's post. I wonder what is the difference between 997 551 033 00 A10 and 997 551 033 90 A10?
Can anyone tell me the part number for the package shelf carpet and foam part for a 2007 GT3 (NOT an RS). It's the carpet and foam part that sits on top of the electronics (behind where the rear seatbacks would be if the GT3 had them) that you must remove/cut up to put in a roll-bar that mounts to the rear shock tower mounts? Thank you very much, Michael
I think by tenders, he means helper springs. My $0.02 is that you don't need them on a race/track setup like the one mentioned. I haven't upgraded my suspension yet, but based upon 997 GT3s I've ridden in/driven on the track, I would go for a slightly higher spring rate than what the OP mentioned maybe 900/1000 or 950/1050 or 1100.
Nice car but you could order a new one today for less than US$162,260 (today's exchange rates) even with a $20k markup (which I don't think you have to pay these days). I could be wrong but since the new RS is about to be available, these very high premiums being asked over a regular 997 GT3 are probably unobtainable from buyers. By the way, how did your motor blow? Oiling problem? The GT3 or GT3RS is much stiffer than a C2S in sport mode and lower to the ground. Will it be uncomfortable?--not to me but I do have to be careful on the lousy roads in Massachusetts. BUT, and this is simply my opinion, buying the 3 or 3RS is a needless waste of money if you are looking for a daily driver rather than a track car. In addition, since there is no weather sealing underneath the car (that's why GT3 variants have a short rust-through warranty in the States, anyway), driving the GT3 in winter will rapidly shorten its life span. Differences between a GT3 and GT3RS can be found with a search but the big items are the slightly wider track in the RS, lightweight flywheel, and rear spoiler. Your best bet is getting a crate motor replacement from Porsche for your C2S cab. Unless you are a track junky AND don't mind driving your winter car more during the shoulder seasons, I suggest you stay away from the GT3 and GT3RS.
From personal experience, the RS29's are an excellent pad for a 997 GT3 for the track and they are a different compound from the stock pad (on a 997 GT3, anyway), although they look very similar. They work well, and seem relatively gentle on the rotors. Any pad will eventually eat through rotors and with the cross drilled rotors, you are going to have cracking long before you wear through them, so I wouldn't consider rotor wear as a decision point. You should get 2-3 sets of pads per set of rotors, but rotors are a wear item and a critical part of your braking performance, so you may wish to add that cost into your mental track budget. Regarding streetability, the RS29s are OK on the street, but squeaky and need to warm up before they get good bite. They're easy enough to change (at least the fronts), that you should switch back to your stock pads when leaving the track. That's what I do, anyway.
Not to be Captain Obvious, but how about taking some camber out in the rear? Also don't forget to think about your toe settings--my stock 997 GT3 (non-RS) suspension squats on those soft springs and rubbery control arms, so stuff is wiggling around back there. Try taking 0.5 degree of camber out in the rear and see what that does--it helped for me. Then take tire temps after hard accel/soft brake runs and vice versa at a shorter track and figure out what's going on. I haven't gotten around to that yet, but will get there eventually. Or, maybe someone reading here has already done that...
I do not understand what information you desire. If you are looking for settings, here was the starting point I used for a 997 GT3, given to me by another GT3 owner: front: sway bar 1 from full soft, -2.5 deg. camber, -0.05deg. (toe-out), caster is non-adjustable rear: sway bar in the middle, -2deg. camber , +0.16 deg. toe-in per wheel I also decreased ride height slightly.
Your car's pistons' rings move inside cylinders on a thin layer of oil. Cut the bottom from 2 cans, spray the inside of the cans with an oil of your choice, then leave 1 can lying on its side, and put the other can vertically on a plate. Wait 4 hours and look inside both cans. The one on the side is like your Porsche's cylinder with some engine oil pooled waiting for you to start up your engine and give you a little smoke show. The one standing up vertically on the plate will be practically empty, with the fluid all down on the plate. Most motors' cylinders are angled toward the sky, so the oil drips down into the sump, or at least out of the combustion area, down past the rings through gaps in the rings such as these (see the red arrows on the picture of a piston, although the one I took a picture of is not from a P-car).
+1 I used a plastic putty knife inserted on the top edge of the black plastic where it inserts into the spoiler to help it along. I don't think you can damage the spoiler attached to the car by just pulling on the "lip" because the black lip friction tabs would likely just round/deform on the way out, but I did not want to verify that when removing mine.
It's perfectly normal. Horizontal cylinders don't allow the oil to drain down like a more vertical alignment does. My wet sump 996s blew smoke on startup rarely, but my dry sump 996 GT3 did it randomly and my current 997 GT3 does it with slightly greater frequency. I had 21,000 miles on the 996 GT3 when I sold it and there was no problem. My 997-3 has about 3,800 miles on it and has smoked occasionally since new. I blew a nice 1/2 car-sized cloud yesterday on startup. Don't worry, just enjoy.
Sorry for the delay, I just saw this. If you are still looking, I have one set of new-in-bag 4 degree shims I never used before I sold the 6GT3. $25 shipped. PM me if interested. Ordered them just prior to your post. Thanks anyway. No problem, I haven't thought about them until I saw the your thread. I have some other 996 stuff laying around as well that I need to post in the classifieds. Time for some spring cleaning.