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sws1

Contributing Members
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About sws1

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    Contributing Member

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Profile Fields

  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2007 GT3
  • Former cars
    2007 911S
    2003 M5
    2001 Boxster S
    1995 M3
  1. Those rotors look brand new. I've seen track guys with 50+ days on their rotors. They get VERY VERY worn. Look at the bottom pic in the first photo Loren posted. It looks VERY rough. That's what some of the track guys have and the brakes still perform well.
  2. In US, it's about 420 RS and 950 non-RS. (across 2007 and 2008). Don't know ROW.
  3. Thanks for that piece of info. With that I guess I can take back to the dealer without getting any grief that it is related to the exhaust. Well, at least I hope. Nick... If you can put the center muffler back on before going to dealer, you may have better luck getting them to honor warranty. Dealers are now rejecting many irrelevant claims due to center muffler.
  4. http://www.gtpurelyporsche.com/pastissue.asp?issueID=17 ... this mag had a GT3 997 buyers guide ... does anyone have this article and would love as well if they can scan and post ... EDIT: i found it ... yay!!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.gtpurelyporsche.com/downloadtra...File=997GT3.pdf. by the way regarding the RMS, the porsche tech replaced it with a 996TT seal, and so far no problem .... people mentioning it reduces HP by 5, i honestly cant see how a seal can do this ... Absolutely brilliant adamr, thank you so much for the link, this is exactly what I was looking for. So is the RMS a problem I should look out for on the 997 GT3 as well then or were you just unlucky with your car? Again thanks for the PDF it will help me to pick the right car. Cheers Alastair the RMS apparently was pretty common on a lot of GT3's RS included, so i have been told. My particular one used to leak one drop per week ... told the mech about the 996 seal, and he first looked at me stumped! i think he did his own homework and then just put in the 996TT seal Thanks again adamr the info is very much appreciated, I will make sure to ask if it has been replaced and will get an independent mechanic to look over any of the cars before I make a final decision on one. I also found some good info to make sure I check on any potential car in the 996 GT3 forum such as the number of type 1 and 2 over revs and a few other things to keep an eye on. I'm feeling a lot more confident about what to look out for now, this site has been a great help. Cheers Alastair The RMS leak was VERY VERY common. Some people have had it replace multiple times with no success. A few of us (knock on wood) have not had any leaks yet. If the seal is leaking a very little bit, or weeping on the chassis components, driving the car more often seems to reduce it. Some folks have had significant amounts of oil leak on garage floor. That's not good. Sometimes the new 997 GT3 seal works, many times it doesn't. So far, those that have put in TT seem to NOT be having any leaks. Although that is an unapproved fix by Porsche. My service guy said the TT seal makes too much noise, and that's why it's not recommended. People who have had it done, have not complained.
  5. Not sure I understand. I DO need "goo"? Where do I put it? Is your comment about stock pads (which I AM going to buy) related to the sensors? Don't I need new sensors? What about the vibration dampers? Can I just leave the existing ones in? Thanks
  6. Plan on replacing my PCCB pads and want to make sure I'm ordering all the correct parts. Front: 4 caliper bolts Set of front pads Set of sensors (DO I NEED THESE?) Rear: 4 caliper bolts Set of rear pads Set of sensors Do I need to replace the vibration dampers? If so, what parts do I need? Front / back? Do I need any sort of brake "gel"? Are there any other parts that are needed? (pins / springs etc.) Thanks
  7. I have heard that the new GT3 has a new RMS that Porsche is supposed to be offering to fix the current leak problem. Someone on Rennlist mentioned that a TSB was forthcoming from Porsche on this.
  8. I haven't checked the sticker to see if it says those numbers are for full load or not, but I have searched the forums and it seems as if there is a lot of variance in the pressures people run. Alot of variance in track pressures, but I haven't seen many people deviate from 33/39 on the highway. My C2S came from factory with your pressures and it was very hard. Once I set it to what the manual said, very different car. To each his own.
  9. They are great. Have em on my Gt3. Stop like nobody's business. And no dust after weeks of driving. And they certainly look cool matched to my seat belts. Worth the money? Probably not.
  10. Unless my gauge is incorrect. I am running 37 front 42 rear. I am going to double check with another gauge though just to be sure. I adjusted my tires (cold) with my digital tire gauge last weekend to the recommended 37 and 44 psi. I found the TPMS was reading about 2-4 psi lower than my measured pressures. That is not the recommended tire pressure. At least it wasn't when I had my 07 C2S. I believe the recomm tire pressure is 33/39 cold. My MY 06 door sticker say front 37 rear 42. However, I do now have 315's at the rear and wonder if the pressure should be the same as the 295's. Those numbers are for full load. Meaning several passengers and trunk full. For standard load, it is 33 / 39. I just looked at the Porsche TSBs related to tire pressure available on this website. Same pressures for C2 and C4, S and non-S. I believe if you look closely, the door jam says Full Load. The manual says something different.
  11. Unless my gauge is incorrect. I am running 37 front 42 rear. I am going to double check with another gauge though just to be sure. I adjusted my tires (cold) with my digital tire gauge last weekend to the recommended 37 and 44 psi. I found the TPMS was reading about 2-4 psi lower than my measured pressures. That is not the recommended tire pressure. At least it wasn't when I had my 07 C2S. I believe the recomm tire pressure is 33/39 cold.
  12. sws1

    GT3 RS

    There are 3 mufflers. 2 on the sides, and 1 in the middle in the back. In non-sport mode, when you hit 4000 RPM (and giving it enough gas), a bypass valve opens in the 2 side mufflers to reduce back pressure, and make more noise. When the sport mode is pushed, the bypass valves open at 3000 rpm (again, if you're giving it enough gas) AND a different engine map is loaded to optimize torque between 3000 and 4000 rpm. Above 4000, it's the same as above. In sport mode, the idle also sounds different becuase the bypass valves are open. They close as soon as you start moving, and re-open at 3000. Variable timing has nothing to do with the sound here.
  13. Well, you can remove the pin that is in the middle of that part, but for the life of me, I can't figure out how that part is attached to the vertical wall. I pushed/pulled in every direction. Must be something I haven't found yet.
  14. I'll try sliding it again. I jiggled it every way I could, but it didn't move. Maybe I have to push harder. And as you said, it doesn't feel bolted in since it's inherently a bit loose.
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