Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by sws1

  1. Those rotors look brand new. I've seen track guys with 50+ days on their rotors. They get VERY VERY worn. Look at the bottom pic in the first photo Loren posted. It looks VERY rough. That's what some of the track guys have and the brakes still perform well.
  2. In US, it's about 420 RS and 950 non-RS. (across 2007 and 2008). Don't know ROW.
  3. Thanks for that piece of info. With that I guess I can take back to the dealer without getting any grief that it is related to the exhaust. Well, at least I hope. Nick... If you can put the center muffler back on before going to dealer, you may have better luck getting them to honor warranty. Dealers are now rejecting many irrelevant claims due to center muffler.
  4. http://www.gtpurelyporsche.com/pastissue.asp?issueID=17 ... this mag had a GT3 997 buyers guide ... does anyone have this article and would love as well if they can scan and post ... EDIT: i found it ... yay!!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.gtpurelyporsche.com/downloadtra...File=997GT3.pdf. by the way regarding the RMS, the porsche tech replaced it with a 996TT seal, and so far no problem .... people mentioning it reduces HP by 5, i honestly cant see how a seal can do this ... Absolutely brilliant adamr, thank you so much for the link, this is exactly what I was looking for. So is the RMS a
  5. Not sure I understand. I DO need "goo"? Where do I put it? Is your comment about stock pads (which I AM going to buy) related to the sensors? Don't I need new sensors? What about the vibration dampers? Can I just leave the existing ones in? Thanks
  6. Plan on replacing my PCCB pads and want to make sure I'm ordering all the correct parts. Front: 4 caliper bolts Set of front pads Set of sensors (DO I NEED THESE?) Rear: 4 caliper bolts Set of rear pads Set of sensors Do I need to replace the vibration dampers? If so, what parts do I need? Front / back? Do I need any sort of brake "gel"? Are there any other parts that are needed? (pins / springs etc.) Thanks
  7. I have heard that the new GT3 has a new RMS that Porsche is supposed to be offering to fix the current leak problem. Someone on Rennlist mentioned that a TSB was forthcoming from Porsche on this.
  8. I haven't checked the sticker to see if it says those numbers are for full load or not, but I have searched the forums and it seems as if there is a lot of variance in the pressures people run. Alot of variance in track pressures, but I haven't seen many people deviate from 33/39 on the highway. My C2S came from factory with your pressures and it was very hard. Once I set it to what the manual said, very different car. To each his own.
  9. They are great. Have em on my Gt3. Stop like nobody's business. And no dust after weeks of driving. And they certainly look cool matched to my seat belts. Worth the money? Probably not.
  10. Unless my gauge is incorrect. I am running 37 front 42 rear. I am going to double check with another gauge though just to be sure. I adjusted my tires (cold) with my digital tire gauge last weekend to the recommended 37 and 44 psi. I found the TPMS was reading about 2-4 psi lower than my measured pressures. That is not the recommended tire pressure. At least it wasn't when I had my 07 C2S. I believe the recomm tire pressure is 33/39 cold. My MY 06 door sticker say front 37 rear 42. However, I do now have 315's at the rear and wonder if the pressure should be the same as
  11. Unless my gauge is incorrect. I am running 37 front 42 rear. I am going to double check with another gauge though just to be sure. I adjusted my tires (cold) with my digital tire gauge last weekend to the recommended 37 and 44 psi. I found the TPMS was reading about 2-4 psi lower than my measured pressures. That is not the recommended tire pressure. At least it wasn't when I had my 07 C2S. I believe the recomm tire pressure is 33/39 cold.
  12. sws1

    GT3 RS

    There are 3 mufflers. 2 on the sides, and 1 in the middle in the back. In non-sport mode, when you hit 4000 RPM (and giving it enough gas), a bypass valve opens in the 2 side mufflers to reduce back pressure, and make more noise. When the sport mode is pushed, the bypass valves open at 3000 rpm (again, if you're giving it enough gas) AND a different engine map is loaded to optimize torque between 3000 and 4000 rpm. Above 4000, it's the same as above. In sport mode, the idle also sounds different becuase the bypass valves are open. They close as soon as you start moving, and re-open at 30
  13. Well, you can remove the pin that is in the middle of that part, but for the life of me, I can't figure out how that part is attached to the vertical wall. I pushed/pulled in every direction. Must be something I haven't found yet.
  14. I'll try sliding it again. I jiggled it every way I could, but it didn't move. Maybe I have to push harder. And as you said, it doesn't feel bolted in since it's inherently a bit loose.
  15. Right. So I remove all the screws, but when I go to pull the part labeled 1 out (the big plastic console), it is still stuck behind part 24 which remains attached in some strange way. That picture doesn't tell me how to get part 24 off. If think if I can get that part off, the console will come out.
  16. I've attached a picture of the GT3 trunk. You can see it's different than 997S trunk. I removed all screws (noted by the yellow Xs), but the main chunk of plastic is now stuck or caught on that thing I have circled in yellow. I don't know what it is, and I don't know how to get the main plastic covering out from behind it. You'll need to click the picture to see what I have circled.
  17. Hard to tell from that picture. But I can tell you that my 997 S has a completely different trunk setup than the GT3. The plastic is molded completely differently. I will try to take a picture later and post it.
  18. I'm trying to see if I can get the Sirius module I took out of my C2S into my GT3. I can't seem to figure out how to get all the plastic material removed from the front trunk. I have found all the screws, but when I pull on it, the large plastic part seems to be caught on this 1 plastic piece about half way down, just right of center. Looks like some sort of holder for a tie-down strap. Little plastic bar going through it so you can tie stuff to it. I can't figure out how to get that off so that I can pull the whole shroud out. Any ideas? (Not sure if this is the same setup as in the C
  19. I just sold my C2S and replaced with a GT3. I took the Cayenne Sirius module out of the C2S, which I had installed myself, and would like to put it in the GT3. My GT3 ONLY has NAV, but not BOSE or other stereo upgrades. So I guess that means it does have a MOST loop. I'm assuming I can just split the fiber optic loop with the Y cable just like I did in my C2S. i.e., the devices on the loop can be in any order right? I would think I can just pull the fiber optic connection out of the NAV, plug it into the Y connector, then connect it to the Sirius module and the NAV. Can anyone who un
  20. Has anyone found a PDF copy of the 997 GT3 owner's manual? Thanks
  21. You have to enable the CDC BEFORE putting in the mobridge. AND, to confirm, you can enable the CDC without actually having the CDC installed. The dealer did it for free in about 3 mins.
  22. Nevermind. CD changer is place is not required. Dealer activated it without.
  23. I have the CDR23 and no Bose, so I need to have the fiber optic loop activated via PIWIS. Dealer told me that he couldn't activate the loop without having the CDChanger actually installed, but from what I've read, that would then cause a problem when the Mobridge was connected. (Someone had this exact problem.) Does anyone know for sure if the PIWIS system allows you to activate the CD Changer and save the setting WITHOUT have a CD Changer in place?
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.