GreggT

I'm going to install a Rev-Lite in my Boxster. I like these better than the single LED shift lights.

http://www.rev-lite.com/rev.html

While not completely necessary to drive fast, I'm still curious to see what it does in terms of being aware of what the engine is doing. I asked my mechanic this weekend if it would be easy to put in, he was like yeah, no problem. (We were both driving at Sebring this weekend at a PCA event)

Tom

So........is there something on this Rev-lite link I'm not seeing?

Here's another SPAC Design

It's no problem having the soft top down over the winter months.....or extended period.

I've done it for yrs with the 986 and now several winters with the C4Cab.

I make a point that it's clean, dry, in good shape....recently contitioned....then put it down & forget it.

Since my 1st post I've gotten the adjust info.........if I find time to do it, I will share pics.

But simply it is removal of the cosmetic (plastic) covers in back right & left corner (that hide the mounting brackets and each mounting shaft.

The mount shafts (threaded shafts) have large hex nut adjusters (one above and one below)....backing off on the upper and advancing the lower would tend to 'pull' the top down.

Should be said that....a healthy space bet body & top does seem normal.......and that trailing edge seal can only be compressed so much..........but I believe there is some room for pulling it down a tad from OE height.

I'm looking for the procedure for fine tuning the hard top height adjust (2 rear mount points).......I recall there was a hard top TSB but unsure what it was titled or if it covered this info.

Basically I am just trying to insure I have the top fitting 'down' as low as is correct or practical....ie minimizing space bet body & top, at the rear edge.......TIA.

Kinda sad to me. :(

Ditto that..........whoda thunk........Porsche would find it's sweet-spot in selling trucks.

No problem playing other google vids..........but I can't play that Cayman link.......my I.T. people say there are no firewall issue blocking........go figure.

"This video is currently not available, please try again later" ??

Okay, okay I definitely have to see that vid. Would anybody be willing to mail it to me or even better put it on another server? Tried http-tunneling to get by the restrictions of google but had no success. The only reason I could imagine why they would do this is copyright protection :censored: .

Thorsten

Ditto that.......I would like to see it also.

Hi everyone. I'm looking to buy my first Porshe, a 933, and am deciding whether to look at the turbos or stick with a regular S model. Unfortunately most of the time will be at lower (below freeway) speeds and short trips - not very many chances to open it up, more twists and turns. Would this be too much for the turbo as far as lots of starts and stops? Not to mention having all that power and not being able to use it most of the time.

Regards,

EZ

Welcome Ezzy :D

You & you're driving habits are not all that unusual, so don't talk yourself out of anything.

Sure, that type of driving (short trips) is tough on any car.......but as for Turbo or S?... personally I'd go with what you find you enjoy driving the most.....life is short.

Good luck in your search for a fine 993 !

Last week I traded my 993 Cab for a 2002 with just over 8k miles. Great car.

Unfortunately I took it through a touchless car wash and it leaked like crazy where the a-pillar, window and top meet. We're talking gallons. I was soaked and actually pulled off my shirt to mop up the water on the seats. Any ideas?

Jim

Start by 're-setting' the top limet of the window travel.

Run the windows all the way down..........holding buttons in for complete travel........release.........then push both in again for complete travel all the way up.......hold em there a sec......release.

Next..........when you are about to enter wash, have 2 small towels handy......don't push out on window, just up into seal to catch any leak at source.

Dlr can also fine-tune window angle and limet........she should not leak (alot).

Funny story..........986s used to have an erratic problem in that dept (windows actually went down without warning for no apparent reason)........my wife's car had developed the problem (but she had neglected to inform me before I took it for a quick rinse & drove it through a touchless).......pretty exiting.....lets just say, I needed more than a couple towels......and I had a 'discussion' with my wife upon my return. :D

Hope you enjoy your new cab Jim !

I'll remind anyone, the 1st words of this thread were:

.......I'm sure I'm forgetting something stupid here...... :wacko:

Yep AG and JimB had ir right........in the rear I'd grabbed the wrong bag of bolts.....thought I had em all marked well....oh sure.

In defence of my own stupidity....now and in the spring things get a tad disorganized......here's hoping this is the worst mistake I've made this fall :D .

Thanks again for the help.

Porsche OE glass use to have a reputation for being pretty soft (I believe OE supplier was Sigla?)........I'm not sure if it's true but I use to rationalize it on the 993 as Porsche's way to avoid outright breaks (that windscreen's pitch, and 964 & 911 before) were pretty severe compared to 996 angle back....& a chip is better than a break.

Maybe their glass continues to be the same hardness today.

.........good after-market may get you harder glass.

Good luck.

Can you roll the car forward and backwards with it in nuetral and engine off? This would eliminate mechanical failure.

Nope.......I can not.

And it's not a balance weight.

I'll put the back up tonight......see what spins...pretty sure my problem is back there.

I'll pull everything off if necessary.........I'm sure I'll find it's something stupid :cursing: .

I can't believe I got my mount hardware switched around......but...'possible'.

As for Drive Block..........tried locking car this morning........waited, then unlocked (all with fob)..........fired her up and still same thing.

Peter.......this is not a tip..........but perhaps you misunderstood......my problem is not in starting the car.

Problem is traveling more than 12 inches :D

Good feed-back guys.........thanks for trying to help.

I have spacers on the winter wheels (that I just mounted) but all that hardware is dedicated for that purpose & has been on the car before (unless I messed up :( ).

I go by my garage in the A.M. on my way to work........and will take another another look then.......I'll also try your suggest Loren.

Thanks again.

I'm sure I'm forgetting something stupid here.......but racking my brain & can't figure.

The C4 had been sitting for a couple weeks while I drove other cars and I just got back to her today to change over to winter wheels/tires and throw on the hardtop.

All done, fire her up.......pull forward one foot and the whole car locks up, like someone stuck a broom handles in ea wheel at the same time.

My 1st thought was I'd left wheel chalks under car...........nope....she will go forward 1 foot.....then back one foot....that's it.

Almost feels like emergency brake clamping down.

At this point it's just got me stumped.

Any ideas definately welcome.........TIA.

I just pulled up Labor Day weekend Club Race results for Rd Am........just for what it's worth........all classes, about 250 cars........I only saw one (1) car.........I actually thought there would be a few more.

M96 in Grand Am Cup?.......and also actively participating in club racing? ('some' yes).

......but nope, sorry, haven't seen it and was not aware, but I missed alot of events this year.........back next.

No problem.

I was babbling on in the hypothetical, not wanting to cause too much of a ruckus...and my result is being unclear :( .

A crazy solution to proving the hypothesis, would be to load a few 996s in the old time machine and take them back 10-20 and see how they'd do with that crowd.

If history writes up the M96 drive line as well-designed & long lasting.....well that's really is all that matters.

There will people that will continue to draw the throw-away Timex analogy (the engine / gearbox not easily rebuilt, modified, not replaceable pistons and cylinders for easy rebuild.....gearboxes without servicable internals components, etc)...and possibly site the absence of any serious international competition's use of the M96.

None of this matters, if history records that the typical 996 buyer had great success.

The premise of my thought, was that the 'typical' buyer may be a tad different.

To put it in context.......I've been around awhile also.....and am fortunate to have a number of cars. You go to the track today, DEs, Tracktime, Club Events.....yes you see 'some' 996s but not many........years ago you saw 911s, 930s, 964s, 993s.........today you see 911s, 930s, 964s, 993s, GT3s, new Turbos.

Does this speak to the typical demo cross section of todays 996 Porsche buyer? I don't know.

Last comment........I can recall discussions with friends 20 yrs ago (at the track) and when a fella asked if a 911 could be considered a good dependable 'daily'.......The answer was no. The suggestion was get the 944. But the more important point was, no one cared if the 911 wasn't the perfect 'daily'.....hell it was a 911.....everything was 'fixable' when it did brake.

Fifteen years later the Discussion Boards started having important discussions about squeeks, rattles, cup holders, & clear side markers. Parade dinner speeches espoused new record profits and how well the truck was coming along.......things changed, marketing changed, it succeeded (in what it was trying to do).

To say that the M96 is actually turning out to be a pretty good product for today's 996 buyer is great, and is certainly saying.......something (and BTW, more of them 'should' track their cars, they're probably tougher than I give them credit for).

And......before anyone thinks my nose is pretty far up in the air..........my 996s do have clear side markers :D

PS2's?

You will find opins from 34 to 36 on the front.....and 38 to as high as 44 (Ruff) on the back.

I run 36 / 38 myself.

Buying used..........get an 02 or later if you can, otherwise whatever.

Hitting the slopes......if you've gotten 8"s the nite before & no plowing early, clearance can be some issue.

Otherwise.......get the Porsche roof rack option.....some winter wheels/tires......and throw the kids in.......great fun.

I've driven all-wheel Pcars in WI winters as 'dailys' for 10-15 yrs......thoroughly enjoy it.

I generally tell people that (for me anyway) driving on the ice & snow is loads of fun cause it's like winter practice for summer autocrossing.

Isn't it possible that a small part of the 'qualified' success of this engine & drive-line....can be attributed to the fact that the owner of the 1998-on vehical is a tad different than 911s of yrs past?

Surely, no one would deny that post-993 that Porsche matched it's change in product with a calculated change in it's marketing direction.......with 'fair' success I might add.

To put it into context........can we honestly say the typical type of buyer for the MY2000 996 had directly comparable use & drive as the buyer of a new 911 964 or 993?

I'm not saying it's 'huge'..........I'm just saying that to leave it completely out of the discussion.......is to say that Porsche was not successful in 'shifting' (and yes broadening) it's marketing demo and base.....(or, that the new-revised 'Porsche following' coincidentally drives & uses their 911s almost identically to the 1987 or 1995 buyer).

I don't see a 'flack jacket' here in the 'Clickable Smiles' but I feel like I should be wearing one ;)

:help: I'm currently looking to buy a set of rims to put racing tires on my 996 '01 Turbo. I could strike a deal to buy 4 Cargraphic Gemballa rims in the sizes:

Front: 9.5 * 18 ET 62

Rear: 12 * 18 ET 28

My regular Posche AG 18" measure as follows:

Front: 8 * 18 ET 50

Rear: 11 * 18 ET 45

Can I fit the Cargraphic's on my Turbo without any problem. I do NOT want to have to fit spacers or other adapters.

Thanks for any advise  :lightbulb:

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Do you have particular rubber in mind that you would use?........I always tell people it's pretty bass-ackward to buy wheels, then look to see if there's rubber to fit em (not just any rubber, but the rubber you want, cause that's for more import than the rim).

Those 12Js with 28mm offset are going to be out there........if you have signif lowered suspension you may be looking at fender prep.

Boy I don't know about 9.5Js up front......what rubber are you going to use up there?........keep in mind your front-rear size differential.

BTW.......OE hollows at only about 20 lbs make for respectable track wheels....paint em any color you like.

:clapping:

This is one of those funny threads that makes me just think.....we're warped.........finding humor in bolts, friction force, and licking your hubs.

No wonder my wife thinks I'm nuts. :D

I have a 2001 996TT.  Anyone else have any problems with sensor failures (MAF-mass air flow sensor, boost pressure sensor, etc.).  Causes boost pressure loss until you key off and key on.

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Not that specific issue....sorry.

But I was drawn to your post because I also have an 01 and recently replaced the bank2 O2 sensor (upstream, before the cat).........now today I'm getting PO175, PO155, and PO172 (in that order of priority).

I'm not seeing any of those on the Renntechs OBD list but the generic meaning on those is too rich on bank1, the O2 heater circut bank2 sensor 1, and then system too rich bank2.

I'm probably going to reset and fill up at a dif filling station.......see if they pop up again.........other advice welcome & appreciated.

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OK.......Jury is still out, but with some other repairs finished on my car this week she will be back on the road for more testing........I may have it licked.

Folowing other threads other boards I opted for replacing the MAF with the 986........so far she has not re-tripped.

See, following my post above it settled down to 175 & 172 coming on same time, every time......always in idle.........she was running just a tad rich in idle......but on both sides........and that tends to narrow things down a bit.

Not sure I mentioned before.........my car is approx a stage 3.........in 4 yrs this is 1st probem I've had, however we've remapped the ECU twice since 1st major engine mods......last program went on last spring.....been running very good.

Only about 40 miles on the car since I put the 986 MAF in..........aask me again in a couple ofd weeks :)

If this does not get it.......my tuner will be coming up with a tweek (hopefully) that opens the acceptable range a tad in idle.

It has been a while since you posted this, what finally happened?

Whether or not you need a spring compressor depends on whether the spring is compressed by the strut or by some other part on the car.  From the picture it's hard to tell but the stock setup does not require a spring compressor.

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By 'stock' you probably mean the OE struts?

Well........I'll put it up over the weekend, see what I have.......that top spring appears compressed a tad w/no load..........we'll see.

Thanks Loren.....here we go.