500

Would removing the rear wheels would be of no benefit?

Thanks for the feedback. So if the wheels do not have to come off do some tech remove them anyway for easier access to the area(s) involved? The reason I ask this is I just had my clutch changed and found some minor damage to one of the rear rims. Thanks in advance.

Are the rear wheels generally removed when doing a clutch replacement for easier access to the trans etc?

Thnx :)

when the dealer replaces a clutch; or is it not affected at all when when they seperate the trans from the engine? Thanks

Thanks...hope so too! :)

Thanks for the info...my car has about 5000 miles now.

The clutch in my 997S is being replaced due to chatter; the car has had this problem since new. My question is there be anything I should be aware of for this procedure ie; flywheel replacement, proper torquing specs for the clutch plate bolts to stop the slight buzz in the pedal at higher rpms (the factory let out cars out w/o these being properly trq'd), any areas prone to leaks after the replacement etc...etc? Thanks

Misery loves company. I've got the same exact problem on my 2006 C4S Cab. under the same circumstances. I've got a little over 5,000 mi and the problem has happened many times. The brakes may be good, but the noise is terrible. Sometimes I've been tempted to use my hand brake to stop as the noise is so annoying and loud - sounds like a Mack truck w/ bad brakes. Just have to put up w/ it..... The dealer says it's normal. In my opinion, pretty poor for a performance car. It's not normal...make them fix it!!!!

Glad to hear it, or should I say glad you're not hearing it! I have not been back to the dealer as they are supposed to be getting back to me this week. I did wash the car a few days ago and really gave the brakes a good cleaning with the hose (when cold of course) and so far no noise but this was only a temp fix in the past so we'll see. Thanks for asking. :) Porschester: Well it's been about a month now, are the brakes still quiet? Thanks

We're too busy posting pics of our cars and debating what wheels to get on the rennlist I guess. :) Not to mention all the post trashing and one upsmanship stuff by a select few...yuk.... :rolleyes:

Had the exact same thing happen to me with a Cayman S loaner...funny I posted this on rennlist and no one cared lol. <_<

Glad to hear it, or should I say glad you're not hearing it! I have not been back to the dealer as they are supposed to be getting back to me this week. I did wash the car a few days ago and really gave the brakes a good cleaning with the hose (when cold of course) and so far no noise but this was only a temp fix in the past so we'll see. Thanks for asking. :)

Keep us posted on the squeal...I hope it's gone for good! I still haven't heard back from the service mgr...I'll be calling him tomorrow.

Thanks. Mine started at about 1200 miles and as of now (2100) miles it's still there.

Thanks for the update. Did the tech apply anti squeal paste to the back of the pads perhaps, as I do not know of any paste that reduces dust? If you could, please check the work order and let me know. My dealership said there was nothing they could do as the squeaking is on some cars and others not...I said I want my car to NOT be one of the one's that squeak. The Service Manager said they would call Porsche tech line to see what they suggested and get back to me. It was raining up here all day today so I was not able to replicate the squeaking as the brakes were wet so I will bring it back. Don't forget to check your service paperwork and let me know exactly what it says. Thanks so much.

Happy Easter to you too! I'm in Delray and go to Braman, although I've bought a few Porsches from the Collection over the years. Please report back tomorrow on what the Collection decides to do,as my car goes in on Tuesday.

Having the exact same problem under the exact same circumstances with my 07 C2S which started at 1400 miles (now @ 2000 miles). I tried the high speed hard braking stuff (which is supposed to clean off the any glaze) given the brakes a thorough flushing with water (when cold of course) etc etc all to no avail. I had this issue on previous MB's (never with a Porsche however and I've owned many) and the only way the problem was corrected on the MB's was when they replaced pads AND rotors and during one instance one of the rotors had to be replaced twice. The squeal with my car seems to be coming from the front brakes, just like with the MB's. My MB dealer tried to tell me it's normal etc, as the factory will only replace brakes one time and for a very limited # of miles.From what I understand Porsche won't cover a brake squeal period, so it may be up to your dealer to help you. My car goes in Tuesday for this issue and you're right, it's very embarrasing when the $90,000.00 car stopping at the lightis the one sounding like a school bus when coming to a slow speed stop. Where are you located? I'm in S Fl.

My 997 S with about 1400 miles just began making a low speed squeal when moderatley applying the brakes, I don't remember any of the 991's I've owned in the past with this problem. Any advice/input would be most appreciated.

There is noise associated with the nav/sound system that is present at times when turning the car on or off; I have had this in both my 07 997S and my 06 E55 AMG...it is perfectly normal.

Tubi!

Tnx for the quick post. Do you have the details of #4078 by chance?

Loren: Do you keep an up to date list of 997 TSB's here? Tnx

Don't these rattles just make you go insane? :rolleyes: Anyway I was able to remove all the rear deck carpet/sound insulation which gave me some limited access to the rear seat belt retractors as my rattle, better described as a cliking/tapping sound, seems to be emitting from the far rear corners of the cargo area. My girl spent almost an entire weekend riding in the back and now thinks it may be coming from under the car (suspension?) I'm also hearing a sqeaking noise similar to swinging a metal bucket by the handle when I make sharp hard left hand turns also coming from under the rear deck area. I had difficulty removing the rear seat back pins as it was bolted in way beyond what I felt comfortable trying to remove. Since I'm now thinking the noise may be coming from under the car I am bringing it in to the delaer tomorrow and have them take a look underneath to see if something might be loose. I'll report back tomorrow night.

I had the same problem. Put your fingers through the C-pillar seatbelt outlet and towards the roof. You should feel a plastic tube hanging loose. Take it to the dealer. They should be able to fix it. They will need to R/I the C-pillar trim which requires R/I of rearside trim panel. Also, ask them to replace all fastening clamps of any R/I panel, otherwise you may get a new rattle after intallation. If you decide to do it yourself and break a panel the replacement will take at least two weeks to arrive in the US. The cost of the C-pillar trim is $75. Thanks so much; do you know what the tube is for? Also here's a new noise I've got :angry: I noticed when I make sharp quick left turns I am hearing something scraping/squeaking coming from the back of the car. Its a light metal against metal sound and it sounds like its moves back and forth due to the forces of the car making the turn (suspension bushing out of place, trans or motor mount loose?). I did not ask what that tube was for. But I showed the technicians at the dealer that it was loose. They properly insulated it and it is no longer making noise. As to the new noise, before thinking about the suspension, engine, trans, etc., check the rear side window (on the side you suspect the noise is coming from). - Determine a spot on the road where this new noise is audible - Have someone sit in the back seat - ask the person in the back seat to put a hand on the window (slightly push outwards) - drive on the same spot on the road and see if the noise disappears or changes. If it is not the window, take the time (patience is required here :) ) to investigate where the noise is coming from. My experience is that if you take the car to the dealer and you do not show them where the noise is coming from they will (in their effort to detrmine the source of the noise) probably R/I parts that have nothing to do the problem. And you will very likely endup with new noise that you will spend more time trying to get rid of. Also, make sure that you can reproduce the noise when dealer's technician goes for a test drive with you. I had a similar "metal-against-metal" noise. With time it developed into a "cling, cling" noise on assymetric bumps, when accelerating hars and when making sharp turns. The problem was the rear side window, driver side. It was loose. The dealer fixed it. But it took months and several visits to the dealer only because I was not patient enough to investigate the noise source myself. The folks at the dealer were very understanding but they did not know exactly what they were looking for. No one knows your car better than yourself. Thanks 3x's. I agree with you 100% as I always try to identify and isolate rattles/squeaks before seeing the dealer, tomorrow I will ride with the shop foreman and have him listen to what I've found so far.I had my poor girlfriend cruched up in the back listening for the noises all weekend, she put her ear right up against the areas where she though the noises were coming from and she thinks the rattling which sounds more like a light clicking is coming from under the the rear deck area (I already removed all the rear deck carpet for better sound location/identification). The squeaking is much harder to identify but sharp left turns sets off the squeak and whatever it is rocks back and forth squeaking (kind of sounds like a metal bucket swinging on the metal handle) the sqeaking is also coming from the back of the car and sounds like it coming from under the deck area somewhere as well...perhaps they're related? BTW with regard to the rattle/clicking only light bumps seem to set it off. Thanks.