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mglobe

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About mglobe

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  • Present cars
    2005 Carrera

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  1. mglobe
    Here is what it sounds like from inside my race car: Fabspeed X-pipe cat delete. The sound is phenomenal, but if you don't wear ear plugs you will ruin your hearing. I'm serious. Racers complain that my car is too loud.
  2. mglobe
    MY2000. I'm getting no engine speed signal at the tach. It's not the tach itself, as neither my traqmate nor my shift light (this is a race car) get a signal either. I traced the wiring back to the ECU side of the junction behind the driver's seat, and there is no signal there either. The engine runs just fine, and from this I believe the engine speed sensor itself is fine, and the ECU is getting a signal. Any ideas?
  3. mglobe
    Ok, I've searched & while I know the answer is out there, I can't find it, so... I've installed a Willwood trailer hitch to pull a tire trailer I have. I'm trying to get the wiring right. I've purchased the Uhaul six into four wiring harness, and have successfully tapped into the tail lights and turn indicators, but I can't get the brake lights on the trailer to work. Can anyone help either with a wiring diagram, or some photos of what to tap into?
  4. mglobe
    Based on how things were wired, I assumed the second box was part of the lojack system. I pulled both out, and the car still runs and didn't blow up, so I guess it's ok. The car is a 2000 C2. There is no PSM in it. Once I pulled the Lojack, I could see that the bottom box was in fact an air bag control unit. Thanks for all the help.
  5. mglobe
    Looks like White got it right. I searched for the FCC ID code that is on the box, and it came back as a LoJack device. Thanks for the help!
  6. mglobe
    I pulled the center console of my 996 today to install the B&M shifter. That went great. Since this is going to be a race car, I'm leaving the console off. Can anyone identify what these boxes are? I'd like to remove them if possible.
  7. mglobe
    Here are two sets of installation instructions. Neither in a GT3, but I'm sure it differs little. You'll need access to a PIWIS tool to deactivate the airbags, belt chime, and AWS. I was able to get a tech at a dealership to do it for me on my 997S. http://gallery.rennlist.com/gallery/album651?page=1 http://www.caymanclub.net/reviews/showprod...120&cat=all
  8. mglobe
    Loren's right about taking it in under warranty. If I had to guess, I would say your fluid needs to be at a bled, and/or flushed. It's not normal though for it to go bad that quickly unless you've been tracking it fairly hard.
  9. mglobe
    I'm going to be installing a Brey Krause harness bar in my 997S later this week. One of the mounting points is the factory 3-point shoulder belt mount. How do you get the plastic cover off to access the bolt underneath it? edit: ack, nevermind, I was confusing the installation of the BK bar with the Sparco harness bar that I ended up not getting. This one doesn't use the shoulder mount point. If anyone has any experience with the BK 1029 though, I'm all ears.
  10. mglobe
    I tried the Techron trick. It actually seems to have worked.
  11. mglobe
    Sorry, can't give you any contacts, but I would call Porsche of North America, and start working my way up the ladder till I found someone who can help. I think that if you are firm, but courteous, and reasonable in presenting your case, you should be able to prevail... maybe. You may end up with the same car and a new engine. If that's all they'll do for you, I'd try to get an X51 kit either comped, or at a nice discount, since they will have everything out of the car anyway. I would want a completely new car also, but best to have a fall-back position.
  12. mglobe
    Why do you want to do this? You will end up with a car that will not be very comfortable to drive on the street, and on the track, you'll run a decent chance of breaking/bending a rim if you go off. If you really feel the need to do something like this for looks, I'd spend the money on lowering, or better yet, PSS9's.
  13. mglobe
    I was fortunate enough to find a 996 spare tire kit on eBay about two years ago. I paid I think about $300. It is what folks are calling the "pre-inflated type", ie it does not fold down flat against the rim. It came with the full kit of scissors jack, lug wrench, cover for the tire, and plastic bag to put the flat tire in. I deflate it to get it to fit better in the luggage compartment. I leave it in there virtually all the time. I've not bothered to secure it in any way, but it's not been an issue. I've actually used it twice. Once I got a flat on a rear tire. I put the spare on, and was able to fit the rear spare in the back seat. Another time I was at the track, and a fellow in the garage next to me had a tire go bad. I gave it to him to drive home to Houston on. He returned it a few days later (track people are the best).
  14. mglobe
    The valentine1 is a good detector, but the only one? I don't think so. I've used a valentine, and I've used an escort 8500. They both have about the same ability to detect real signals and reject false one, which actually means they both detect real signals, and neither rejects false ones. The valentine's arrows are nice to have, but honestly, when your detector goes off, you slow down, find the source of the signal, and speed back up. The valentine helps you locate the source of the signal a little faster. I've got an escort 8500that I'm very happy with. I've also got Escort's laser defuser integrated into it, which seems to work as a defense against LIDAR. If I were to buy a new one, I'd either go with the Escort 9500, or their new built in unit that has the same GPS capabilities that the 9500 has. This allows you to tag false signals so that every time you go buy the CVS at the corner, your detector doesn't go off. Just my $.02
  15. mglobe
    Just to be clear here, the Sport Chrono "Sport" setting does absolutely nothing to give more power or improve performance of the engine. All it does is remap the throttle so that it opens more relative to the position of the accelerator pedal. When the you are at wide open throttle, the performance of the engine is exactly the same in normal or sport mode. The quicker throttle response makes the car seem faster, but it really is not. It is a function that inspires a lot of debate. I personally find the sport setting throttle response to be too difficult to modulate, particularly on the track where relatively subtle throttle inputs can have fairly significant results (i.e. spins). PASM Sport mode is an entirely different thing, and on the track, as long as the surface is relatively smooth, it improves handling significantly in my opinion.
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