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My 8 year old Boxster is beginning to spit pieces of sponge at me through the various aircon ducts! Bits and pieces come out from the side, center, top and bottom vents. I figured the sealing sponge inside are all dried up and breaking up into pieces. I thought the problem would eventually go away but after months, they're still coming out at me! Does anyone know the parts that needs to be replaced to solve this? I brought this to an aircon shop and they said the entire dashboard needs to come off for the replacement. Anyone had this similar problem before and solution to it? I'm quoted $600 to replace the sponge.
Hmmm....that's something I hadn't thought about. I did have the exhaust adjusted recently to center it and the squeaking became softer. Let me take a closer look end of next week and report back if there's any improvement. Thanks for sharing this!
The squeak was there before I replaced anything actually. And it's still there after I replaced what I listed in my previous post :( I guess one sure way is to leave the car overnight at the mechanic and have them shake down the car the morning after when everything's cold.
I've this nasty rear end squeak when the car is cold. It happens in the morning when I go over speed humps as I leave my house. Squeak when I go up the hump and squeak when I go down again. When the car is fully warmed up, it's all quiet again even when going over the same humps. I've since replaced : 1) Struts, springs & rear sway bar (ROW 030 kit) 2) All 4 suspension top mounts 3) Rear control arms (this stopped the rattle when going over uneven surfaces) 4) Rear sway bar drop links 5) Engine mounting (rubber was cracked and I replaced it wtih those from Pedro's) 6) Gearbox mounting (since I'm replacing the engine mounting anyway) But the **** noise is still there!! It's driving me nuts as I've spent thousands of dollars till date. Does anyone has any suggestions? I've seached throughout this forum and can't find anyone else with similar experience.
Clubhead: UPDATE I just received an email from the guy who was trying to replace the complete convertible top and frame mechanism of his MY98 with a new top and frame mechanism from a MY05 and he confirmed for me that it will NOT fit. He also confirmed that it only took him 30 minutes to take the complete top and mechanism off his MY98. So, it looks like the best route to follow to get a glass window AND good access to the engine on an early Boxster is to get a complete top and frame mechanism from a MY03 or MY04 986. The whole swap should take around an hour. Regards, Maurice. Thanks for posting this update Maurice. Appreciate it. I know now not too try :)
Clubhead: The 987 and 986 tops are not the same. If you want a glass top and to still get good engine access, you can retrofit a convertible top AND frame mechanism from a 2003 or 2004 986. The 986s with vinyl windows have 3 bows, the 987's have 4 bows. Regards, Maurice. Got it. But what if there's a complete 987 donor car. Would I be able to transplant the entire top and mechanism from the 987 to the 986? Including the bows you're talking about?
I've had a major dent on my door and one of the local body shop offered me a door off a 987 instead of panel beating it back to shap. I initially refused but guess what, it fitted almost perfectly. The gaps between the door and the body is about 1mm larger but I was told it's normal for door retrofitted outside of the factory. I'm referring only to the metal door panel. I swapped out everything else, inner leather door panels, wing mirror, glass windows, etc from my original door.
Although you've recalibrated your DME to take the new MAF, there's no reason why GIAC does not have a program for it. The recalibration far as I know is just to tell the DME to read the voltage from the MAF or something similar. My local dealer told me this 'recalibration' will also load the latest fuel/ignition map into the DME but I'm not sure. I've had mine done about 1.5 years ago. The latter model MAF was used on the latter model cars. If GIAC does not have a program for it, does it mean they've no program for cars that comes from factory fitted with the new MAF? I doubt that. Did you try calling them? Most of these companies are flooded with emails everyday and I will call them if my email goes unanswered. Good luck with this!
I went through a near identical experience as you. Replaced the old model MAF on my Yr 2000 Boxster S with a new model MAF which requires the DME to be re-programed. My dealer told me the fuel/ignition map will also be updated to the latest version along with this re-programming. Does anyone know how true this is? I reckon it's just calibrating the DME to read a different voltage of the new MAF sensor. Why I'm asking is I did a baseline dyno run couple of months later and the car showed to have lost about 15bhp. This is comparing another run which I did before I got the DME re-programed for the new MAF sensor. There will be variance between each dyno run but 15 bhp seems kinda big...
Hate to tell you this : It's been about 2 weeks since I've had the pads filed down. They didn't squeal the 1st couple of days. BUT, they do now but the pads needs to be much warmer for that to happen. The good news is overall, the pads squeal less.
I'm planning on replacing my engine mount. I called to enquire about the part and the dealership person told me over the phone that the transmission adapter will also need to be replaced at the same time. Can anyone confirm this? If it makes sense, I want to use the opportunity to replace hard to get to items and save on the labour.... Part numbers for both the engine mount and transmission adapter will be much appreciated as well :) Thanks.