rsfeller

sounds like option P63, like i have. SPORT PACKAGE M396 17" Wheels/Tires M551 Wind Stop M490 Sound System M454 Cruise Control M535 Alarm system M688 CD Player (in-dash) - $3395 http://www.986faq.com/4-0/default.asp#P63 Yep that's it! So I got the standard suspension I'm guessing then as any upgrade would have been a cost item on the window sticker...

thanks Brian. That will answer my question for sure and I'll be out there at 9am looking! Shawn

From what I can tell you are suggesting a full top swap? I'm not feeling the need yet considering I have a 100% good top but 50% rear window! Looking for a low budget fix until the full top needs replaced...

That's part of my question. The window sticker I have makes no mention of the package code, it simply says Sport Package $3,235 and then lists 5 N/C items under it! Those 5 items make no mention of hardware only tires, stereo, wind deflect, alarm and cruise control. So is this US spec sports package simply a convienence package?

where can I find the details of what this includes other then that listed on the window sticker I have It states: 17" wheels, cruise, hifi stereo, remote control alarm and rear wind deflector. I thought I read the sport package tweaked sway bars and posibly springs/struts to? the reason i'm inquiring is I need new from struts (rattling quite a bit) and wondering if I need to match a specific code. I see the MO12, MO13 and MO30 on the option code list. Which do I have and what does it include? thanks. Shawn

ok. 63 degrees F today and while putting down my back window on a 100% sunny day the rear window cracked. It's about a 1/2 dollar in size. It didn't fold perfectly when I put the top down and before I could stop the top the damage was done. My rear plastic is very very hazed while my canvas is in great shape. This is a good blessing as that rear window needs replaced. I've got a canvas guy that has done amazing stuff for me on my boat and restoring an old saab. I'm quite sure he can hand sew in some good glass for far cheaper then a whole new top. If there are no glass options he'll do a fine job with new eisenglass. Anyone know of any after market glass only? EDIT: OK I may have answered my own question already as it appears the glass in newer boxsters is noticably smaller then the plastic window, thus it would not fill the void, correct? So even if there was an after market company that made a larger glass window it most likly doesn't fit when the top goes down. Comments?

Wow Chris! Didn't get mine apart last night to check, but will this weekend. Did the symptom of the window "not dropping" come all at once with no warning (my did) or did it go down less each day until it stopped?

ahhh now I can see the light...clairty has come! So I wasn't really wasn't that confused. I was looking to the black box for my problem/solution from that other post I referenced. Nobody really explained to me what the failure trend was with the cable so I figured the bushing was the problem to solve. Will it be obvious to see frayed or damaged cable? I"m going to pull this all apart after dinner for a look before ordering the part. Shawn

OK I must be an idiot then as now I'm back to confused. The catalog shows the same image you have posted. The part you have circled as the motor is infact the motor and regulator tranmission (black box) assembly combined, the motor is simply the silver part on the end. Inside that tranmission assembly is what I have been lead to believe is the problem as stated in this post: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry53931 The oval-ized bushing holes ARE IN the black box, correct? If you are stating that I need the window regulator (cables and rails) then what is the failure trend that causes my issue of the window not going down a 1/2 inch when the door is open? If porsche simply seperated the "black box" from the silver motor I think this would be less confusing for me!

OK I get it, the catalog is just misleading...they should have seperated the motor from the black box if they are giving it a unique number. If you guys swear the regulator tranmission housing (black box) comes with the rails and cables, then that is what I'll get! Another state $150 from Sunset Thanks.

i swapped my window regulator and didn't have to make any adjustments at all. on the bottom of the door where you remove the bolts that hold the cable rails in place, there should be the 'ghost image' of the where the bolt/nut was previously located. you can also trace around the bolt with a removable ink pen/grease pencil/crayon or whatever will work, before you remove them so you can put them back in the same place when you install the new regulator. also, you may want to trace around the window clamps at the bottom of the window so that it is also lined up with its previous position when you put it back in the clamps. FYI, if you hear 'motor noises' your window motor is probably OK, and you just need the 'regulator' which is actually just the rails and cable spool system. i got mine from Sunset Imports for $150 brand new. i wouldn't take a chance with a used assembly as the cables rust, and you just may be living on borrowed time until they finally snap. buy a new one and be worry-free. ;) I did ask for quote from Sunset today. Can you clarifiy from me what you got as I so confused on what everyone is calling a regulator! From the Porsche Catalog the show the following: http://carboncow.net/php/gallery/view_phot...986_USA_KATALOG I am under the assumption that part #2 which is the motor and regulator assembly is what I need and they are sold together, you cannot get the motor seperate even if you wante too! YOu speak of getting the regulator assembly and rails, while in the Parts Catalog the rails and cables are clearly part #1. What in fact did you order and get for $150? Thanks. Shawn

Maybe my confusion is from use of terms. Many on here keep using the term regulator which I always thoguht was the black box. When someone says they removed the regulator (such as the guy who took out the defective bushing) does he in fact mean he took out the tracks, cables AND the black box (motor assembly) with the attached motor? Or did he simply remove the motor assembly (regulator?) and leave the cables/tracks & glass still in the door? I've seen in done both ways on different cars.

I've done my share of window work on Saabs so I"m not to nervious, but the adjustments for the open drop as I read in Bentley looked like a pain to get it right. As I look at the part to replace in Catalog it appears the entire housing is replaced as you state including motor and the black box. I also know that the cables are often permently attached to the blackbox as you mention. Often getting these cables in the black box is a horrible job. Is there a simple system to this for the Porsche? Or will I be crying as I try to get the exsisting cables attached to the new black box? It hought this was straight forward but now that I read you posts I'm rather confused!

just replace the regulator. as for the adjustments, they need to be performed when installing a new regulator. the adjustments were also in response to a binding issue some had with the window glass against the window seal. EEK! So I'm going to have adjust those controls to both remove and reinstall the black box?

agreed. it doesn't matter if there's slack in the motor, the regulator and electronics are designed to compensate for that. if you need a motor, PM me. i bought a used regulator to replace mine and it came with a motor, which i don't need. Thanks. I don't recall ever mentioning I thought it was the motor as mine works as expected I agree in the 101 cars I"ve owned I"ve lost maybe one motor...it's always broken rails, window clips and gears in the assembly.

thanks for the comments... I am going to take the regulator gearing apart tonight as discussed in the other post, my issues sound 100% like his...but then again this was not a gradual wear either. It worked fine one day and not the next. You can feel that motor jump but it's as if it skips a tooth or as the other guy said the bushing has oval holes. I'm be really suprised how the adjustments could cause this issue. Nothing is binding, looks straight and it goes up as expected, just doesn't drop. I'd hate to start playing with the pitch/yaw/left/right adjustments if everything looks good in that situation.

I doubt it - they just fail after a number of years of use. They fail on 996 coupes too. The info I've read on different board does show this to be a common failure item. I would definitely say the primary wear on that bushing is from excessive use of the window from the door opening/closing. but... The drag on my window is excessive from the folding and "grabbing" rubber scraper. It has even stopped my window completely from going down a couple of times. I figure that type of friction would cause those holes to elongate even quicker from the stress and friction. It's a shame you cannot get just the $10 rubber bushing! Does anyone know if the right and left bushing assemblies are interchangable? I seem ore pass. side window assemblies on ebay then drivers side. I'm sure the pass. side units are in good shape to do to lack of use. I would rather spend $75 on a used pass. regulator then a new drivers (or worn and used drivers!) side...

Thanks. On mind it's very visible when you pry back therubber that the felt is missing toward the rear of the window/door. Interestingly my regulator for my window failed today. This is most likly caused by the stresss caused fromt he rubber buckling over. It appears to be a common issue with the rubber bushing on the gear driving wearing out due to stress. This then caused the quick drop function for the door opening to not allow the window to drop.

Is the regulator the black housing attached to the motor? If so I read a post where I guy said the black bushing has the round holes that attach to the large gear round out. Does this sound like the condition? If so I have found several motor/regulator assemblies used and cheap.

Did you ever get an answer if this could be purchased seperately?

Today I about ripped the rubber off the top of the window becuase the window didn't do the "drop" the few millimeters it usually does when the door is opened to clear the upper channel. It closes properly (moves up into the channel) when the door is closed When you pull the inside or outside handle you can hear the motor try to move the window just a fraction but the window pulses with no movement The window goes up and down as expected with use of the switch There is no binding other then the rubber felt folding over at times (as I've complained about of late).Which appears to have no affect on this failure. Who can point me to some past threads or knowledge on this. When I got my car I really thought that was a unique "geewhiz" item that was bound to fail, guess I was right!

Does you felt appear to be MIA from the rubber in some areas? I've tried rain-x on the window and silicon on the rubber (as well as the talc) and once it rains and drys outside the rubber starts to grab again...

plus they are all over ebay for a few dollars more...

Is the ingition eating problem really the inexpensive electrical switch fix or more to do with the tumbler/transponder assmbly that is less common the the failure you mentioned?

Respiro, I'm curious to read what was wrong with your AC? I have huge amounts foam coming from my vents (even after removing it all from the filter area) and I also have little to no heat. I have what appears to be a good thermostat and no errors showing on the AC control nor Durametric software. Loren and others say I need to get it on a PST2 to meaure air mix control readings. Anyways my intial idea was that the foam could be blocking the flap door or clogging the heater core enough to restrict heat considerable. I'm warm but just not hot. How did your symptoms affect your system?