Respirologyrc

Hi guys/gals So i have done the search and figured out how to release my hood, trunk, and gas cover. I can get the hood and trunk open by triggering the switch on the driver side door panel. The silinoid does work for both front and rear. What i can't figure out is how to keep all three lock free. So this is what is happening. I can unluck the hood and the trunk. Once unlocked i can open and shut my car door then attempt the re-open both the trunk and the hood with no problem by pulling on the latches. Now when i shut the door and hit the key botton on my key the trunk and hood lock up again. I do not know what to do and can't find any posts on this. All i know is that all was working fine till my friend accidentally slammed shut my front hood. It wasn't so much a slam as it was allowing the hood to fall close. Anyone know what's up with all this? I did check the fuses in under the steering column and am now confused what to look for in order to fix this problem Thank you all

Hi folks; I have a 1999 Boxster 2.5l I currently have 65k on this car, and 40k on my engine (my 1st engine blew out at 10k miles as i pulling into my drive way :( ) Either way, i recently noticed that when i step into my car in the morning; if i push down on the clutch before i turn anything on it squeeks. I can hear this noise coming from the rear engine compartment. Is this normal? I don't ever remember it making this noise, but then again i usually turn my car on before i push the clutch in. I don't have any other problems with my car; is shifts smoothly, and reliably every time. Respiro.

Hi guys I just noticed water under my driver side seat. Not alot but enough to concern me. Where exactly am i supposed to look for leaks. I read the above posts but am not exactly sure what you are all talking about. I know there is a drain behind my left shoulder. I pour a little water in there and it seemed to go right down through the car and on to the street. So is there another place that i should be checking? Can someone post pics of the area or areas?? Thanks

Hi Loren i recently bought a PCM M680 radio I can't activate it without the codes Here is the info on the radio itself; there are two labels on this box. THe radio box is big and composed of two units that are put together and held together by the Navigation Screen. SO they are NOT independent of each other. I tried contacting Becter Automotice Services and they said the entire unit is made my Siemens; yet the box has a label on it that says Becker. Go-Figure! Siemnes Porsche 996.642.105.04 EFR MFLFB: 5WK 78004 Serial No.: P08040106348/03 Date: 00120803 SW5.25 Becker Type: IDIS Model No.: BE 2582 Serial No.: Y5007946 KW: 40/00 65 31 35.20.40

Hi guys I just thought i would comment on how fast it took to swap out my coolant tank. First you must gain access to your engine from above. Then remove all the linings from the trunk. After this it's cake! You can reach the clamp that holds the 3" rubber hose from above. Lifting your car is definitely not required. I lifted mine only becuase other instructions that i have read recommended doing so, but after trying to find the correct hose that way---FORGET IT! Easy I give all this credit to ToolPants for mentioning/figuring out the top route.

nav item #2 pictured in the diagram

Hi guys; Well i've been driving my car without an opperational stereo for about 2yrs. I have a 1999,2.5L Boxster with the 6disk player, amp, and 680 Nav. HIFi system. One day i was out driving and just heard a little buzz. No more than .2 mili-secs in time (less than 1 second). After this i couldn't hear any noise from my speakers but could still see that my radio was picking up digital signals. So i know my antenna works or else i wouldn't be able to see which songs are playing from varying radio stations. I thought it was my amp that went ; so i bought a new amp. NOpe not the problem either. I thought maybe my nav went, but i can still put in directions and get to places with its help. I have posted this problem before with little to no luck. Then recently i came across something called a "Control Unit" part number 27 on the diagram (OEM-99664712400). I noticed that it has a connection to two big wires. I'm guessing this is the output to the speakers for the left and right side. Can anyone shed some light on numbers 31, and 27 from the digram? I've already checked my fuses and none of them are blown. So i either have a blown radio (>$3k for a new one) or this Control unit might be cooked. diagram of radio http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLookup/HT...1-01-Frame3.htm

So it's been a while since anyone has posted on this problem, and i thought i would share my experience of this issue being that i just had it happen to me. I have a 1999 Boxster 2.5L Polar white paint with 61k I drove the car 50 miles, no problems. Stopped went into a store, and when i came out all of my coolant was on the ground. I check my coolant tank and saw it below min level. There was a lot of coolant fluid around my coolant cap (green in color). It turns out that i have the older faulty coolant cap. Either way 2 days later i pull up the carpet and find zero green haze or any puddles. Being that my car is white i would assume that even dried up antifreeze inside my trunk compartment would be evident. Because i didn't see any residue i did still run my finger across the trunk around the area of the coolant tank. It felt sticky and my finger appeared to have some sort of silver residue or lubricant on it. Was this dried up antifreeze? I filled the coolant tank back within normal range, and proceeded to drive home. Just like everyone else---zero issues and temp staying at 185. Is it possilble that enough antifreeze came up through the coolant cap and spilled out down the drain tube? Mind you i drove my car 50miles in 100 degree weather with the AC high. Also i didn't see if the anitfreeze came pouring out or if it just spilled out then pooled to form a puddle around my right rear tire. Thank you guys

I'm not sure how replacing and entire instrument cluster is easier than just replacing a bulb. But i do see how replacing and entire instrument cluster to and unsuspecting client could yeild them a lot of money;: "Uhmm Sir, you need new gauges. That'll cost you $2200.96 for the repair. We can't replace the bulb because it's part of the entire cluster." That's what was said to me before my $6.95 fix.

First let me say thank you to everyone that has posted a thread here regarding one thing or another. This week I could have spent easily $3k on repairs, but decided to fix my porsche myself. I know my way around a garage and am no fool. Just yesterday I replaced a blown 1.6L Sentra engine in 8hrs. I am worthy! But for some reason or another i always have worried about working on MY OWN cars. So i trusted the people at my dealership to do me right. When i became tired of their super high prices i went to a Repair shop that specialises in Porsches. Well to my aggrevationa and disappointment I have decided to work on this car myself. What I fixed this week: 1.Porsche Repair shop told me my ac was broken and that i would need a new one--cost >$800 for the repair --well i fixed this after i pulled the blower out only to find foam inside of it. This costed me 10mins of my time and research. Thanks fellas for your help 2.Porsche Dealer told me my coolant reservoir tank was broken, cost for repair ~$750.00 --after some research and the help of Loren, turns out my coolant reservoir cap was an old one with the final two item numbers being 00. I fixed this by driving to the dealer and picking up an 01 Cap for $17.00 3.Instrument cluster light for the Odometer went blank. I took this to my Porsche Mechanic and he claimed to have pulled the cluster. He told me that i would need a new cluster, reprogramming, and yada yada yada Cost super exspensive. --I pulled two screws out removed the cluster and replaced one (1) bulb for $6.00 now my cluster works again no problem I wasted a little time making sure i didn't scratch anything. I'm seriously pissed in retrospec. I drive a Boxster not a bank. I can't believe that without a forum like this i might have paid to have these things fixed, and at top dollar. I feel like all these years i've been taken advantage of. These people are crooks and have lost my business as a result. To think i brought all the guys at the Dealership coffee and donuts because i felt they were doing a great job. I may still go to a dealer for computer stuff but now that i have many of the answers here i'll be that much more informed and capable of doing this myself. At least i'll know for sure that every screw gets put back the way i like them. Respiro

Well i have the 3 way adjustable seats with memory. I blew the fuse in the driver side seat, so i replaced the fuse and again i blew the fuse. I took the car to the dealer and they said there was nothing wrong and that all was working fine. So i took the car home and along my way i blew the seat fuse yet again. I was pretty pissed because i paid them 120.00 to fix the problem and they didn't! Not only this but i live 25miles from my dealer so it's not a trip i wish to make often. SO on another day i returned to the dealer and had them take a look at it again. They called me and told me that they took the seat out and inspected everything, and that all was fine. SO i got to the dealer checked the seat; it was working, and i took off towards home. About half way home i decided to adjust the seat and guess what? I blew the fuse again. Well now i'm into this seat about $200.00+time+fuel+aggrevation and my seat still doesn't work. WTF!!!!!! My dealer sure likes to rip me off. I think it's a burnt motor can someone PM me a skematic for the driver seat? Or help me figure out what is wrong with my seat; i almost think it's a bad ground wire. Thanks Respiro

Could be low, but I bet it is the reservoir. Common problem. Do you mean the coolant could be low, or the actual reservoir could be damaged?

I have a 1999 Boxster. On the temp gauge there is a yellow lights that alarms you if your car is overheating or if it's too cold to run. I first had this light go on because my engine was very cold and i tried driving it. Now months have gone by and even if it's hot out this light still goes on. Any one have any clue as to why this still occurs. If i let the car heat up and run for a little bit, then turn it off and restart it the light will go away. BUT then if i'm on the highway and the temp drops the slightist bit the light will flash again. Any clues? I'm bringing it to the dealer this mornign so any help would be great before i bring it in

Just like "insite", i too had this problem. I noticed it immediately after i filled my car with cheap 89' gas (i was being cheap and wanted to see if i could notice a difference). I drove the car around until i spent all the gas and then filled it with 94' octane never had the problem since. Funny thing i noted also was that i could hear my rockers also---I will never ever put **** gas in my car again!

I have the Nav/Info m680 package and need to get behind the stereo. How do i get that entire unit out? DO i have to remove the two heating vents above the nav screen first? I also have a full carbon fiber package; so will the CF horse shoe trim be damaged in this removal process? Lastly does anyone know if the DSP have a fuse in the unit itself? I know that there is a fuse for the stereo in the driver side fuse panel, i also know that there is a fuse attached to the 18 pol black connector next to the m680 amp, but are there any others ones that i missed?