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rsfeller

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Everything posted by rsfeller

  1. lol..i m suprised u acutaylt ookt aht chance of ruining ur engine......i would have just drained the tank and put 94 in=)... lol Why would it "ruin" an engine? I've driven my share of cars over the years that require higher octane and all modern cars seam to have varible knock sensing timing to adjust to the change in octane. Obviously fuel may suffer as well as preformance...but I'm not sure I would understand why the engine would be ruined? Is there something unique to the porsche engine? Shawn
  2. One of these is the door rubber seal on the outside?
  3. This was post number 6. Okay so it's officially called a PCV, yeah right...... but wasn't I on the money? Do I not win the prize? We'll pass out the winnings once I get it to the Porsche dealer next week! It is slightly dirty with oil but not wet, so I'm not to concerned now. As I stated before I would guess we want the crankvalves working correctly so they don't help push the crankcase seal out!
  4. Silicon was a no go for me, but talc did work in hot weather. now that it has been 40 degrees in the morning it goes away due to the stiffness of the rubber. by the afternoon when its 70F it flapsright back over! my issue isthe felt on the under belly is gone and thus it cannot do it's job properly. i'm safe on the talc until it rains again...
  5. Thanks for a good guess. Like many new 986 owners I have bought many books and manuals including Bentley, Tech Service manual and all the 986 history/story books. The later have some great photos of the engine on a bench and NOT ONE has the "gizmo" in question. I will eventually be visiting a dealer for a PST2 scan for my heater issue, I'll give them the photo and put this question to bed! I was really surprised a few of our best question answers didn't chime in!
  6. I'd say yes on the fuel filter. If you don't know when it was done last...then it does need done now! I've had fuel filters cause issues in other cars before. Additionally, you may know this already and it has been debated on other vehicles before but running dry is not advisable. Many fuel pumps are actually cooled by the gas and 100% dry can wear on the pump.
  7. Sounds like classic relay failure I've had happen on many Saabs and BMW. I would hope its a rather standard unit that could be had at most local auto stores, maybe not. Regardless they can be cracked open and the contacts cleaned for another year of service.
  8. I believe that is accurate. In a 4x40 system, I believe the PNP kit drives off the head unit. A word on this approach though....the system you are describing will be ok with the top up, and will sound a bit better, but will be pretty severely under powered for top down volume of any appreciable level. thanks. I'll most likly approach this with a 6x40 system down the road, there are a few on ebay I've seen. For now I just wanted to know if I went the PNP route I could at least get it running and spend more money down the road. Are there wires already running through the tunnel that mount up to the PNP kit or is that part of the kit? Many car builders have the generic wiring harnesses dropped in all trim levels and just add the components as needed. Just curious.
  9. What a stupid reply to my inquiry, who pissed in your cornflakes this morning? My inquiry has nothing to do with what "we" care it has to do with a question "I" asked from competent list members. It appears to be a sensor or outlet of sorts and being covered with oil is slightly concerning when the rest of the engine is fairly clean. Oil being vented can be a sign of a bad crankcase check valve and incorrect crank case pressures can damage engine seals. I've seen it happen on my Saabs before and since I'm new to the 986 world I don't know the engine well, yet. So I have researching a reason for oil venting from this area. Thank you Doctor Obvious about the photo quality. Not only did I state an apology for photo quality in the initial post but you found time in your busy day to answer this post with nothing constructive other then to point this out again. Although the photo quality is not superb most enthusiasts can identify an engine part based on its location alone. Next time add something constructive (or at least funny like the first coupe of posters) or don't bother. Maybe my clarification and explaination for my initial inquiry will help others to answer the question and keep the haters at bay.
  10. so the stock amp in a 1997 is a 4 channel running the front, correct? If I add rear speakers I can run those off power from the head from what I read in this post? The head is most likly also a 4 channel power amp and I could pick up the rear two channels off of it? Not looking for a major upgrade and the desire to put in a 40x6 amp...just some music to the rear would add to the sound for sure.
  11. Great info. I'll try to contact Becker tonight through their website about the cable. Don't know if they have an facilities in the US. Shawn
  12. Moderator, eh? And world renowned Porsche expert too! :eek: <_< somehow I don't doubt Porsche implimenting yet another sensor and one that measure particle density to regulate fog light intensity or such...but is it fair to say the esteemed board of members here have been stumped or is there some reason this information is not being released about my inquiry about the gizmolonid?
  13. took the engine hatches off tonight for the first time since I bought this car a couple weeks back. Everything looked clean, dry and the belt looked almost new. Anyways, I have attached one photo and circled some gizmo that I cannot find in the manual or Bentley. What is this? It was very very oily just in that one part. It could be below the power steering res which had it share of dirty/fluid but I think it appears to be a terminate for a recirc of some type. Just curious to what it is and should I expect to be really oily for a 60K 1997. Sorry for the crappy photo, camera phones don't like close ups in low light. thanks. (should have mentioned that this is on the left side on top of the head, but you most likly know that already if you are answering this question!)
  14. Just got a CD-3 dirt cheap w/o the wire from the unit to the head. I know Porsche can get it but cannot find the part number. more importantly: Can someone explain to me the logic to find such a cable with the parts PDF? I search for CD - 3 and a page comes up with the unit and hardware but cannot find any cable comments in the PET (update 194). The page below showing the new MOST system shows cables (and numbers) between components but the pre fiber system shows nothing. Am I missing something? Page_001_CD_3.pdf
  15. The shafts are not coming out with out drilling them out, so for now the brackets will hang. I guess I don't see any problem and I don't here them rattle. I was just hoping for comment on having their brackets hanging for some time or any concerns. II will most likly wait till spring to drill out the broken parts as I have some strut work to do in the future.
  16. You bring up a good comment that I have a question on. when is it best to use a anti-sieze compound? I've used it on brake parts in the past but little else. Is it safe for any two parts (bolt and thread)?
  17. Isn't it funny how the dealer says the whole dash has to go! You may be right. Looking at Bentley it appears the motor is on the bottom so I was hoping to access it as you speak, w/o having to remove everything. You are speaking of the same part for your need as me? In mine I hear no issues, what is your doing? The control flap is more toward the pass. side then? My only complaint with Bentley on this is they show the entire AC housing out of a car so I couldn't figure out its orientation in regards to the dash. What did you have your dash out before for? If the heater flap motor is in deed bad I plan to document the entire process for all.
  18. Really! and the one I tried to get out that snapped at the first torque of the 10mm wrench?! Unless the PO cross threaded that one, you could be right. Just becuase they are easy to get out of yours doesn't mean that something was squirelly with mine I'm sure. I'm just surprised they used such a low torque bolt such an area. Obviously road debris, salt and corrosion take their toll and need more torque for removal on bolts and fasteners.
  19. Just got good word that my lack of heat is most likly a common failure of the: Heater Flap / Blend actuator motor. I have not put this on a PST2 yet and will not begin work until we have verifed this but sources say be prepared for this one. Additionally they said the dash and heater box will need opened. Done my share of saab and vw heater cores, fans, mixers and dashboard removals. All sucked. anyone lived to tell on this one?
  20. will check out, are the bushings usually shot? I've seen sway bars hanging on other cars I'e owned (neglected). Is this why I see swap bar kits on ebay or are those upgrades for track needs? More importantly are we the only two guys sitting at home on a Friday night?
  21. ebay guy has them cheap. easy swap from the top strut or are messing with struts a real job for a real specialist? could the fact these things are wasted be why i hear a front end rattle on really bumpy roads that is subdued as quickly as front gets back on the road? Do these bump stops belong inside the gator?
  22. fixed horn and now put the neg cable back on. something seems different, or maybe I’m just crazy. please confirm! seems that the radio before Illuminated or at least the ON button did at night with the car running (ignition on) but w/o the head lights on. The radio and ON button light up as expected with the headlights on...but something seems to have changed, just cannot put my finger on it! Obviously disconnecting the battery and thus stereo would have removed all config. Didn't see anything in setup about this. Help determine if I'm nuts or not. thanks.
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